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th3 0cean Fina1
here it is
60
Science
Undergraduate 3
05/02/2011

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Term
The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the
Definition
Polar regions off antartica
Term
The ratio of wave height to wavelength is called the
Definition
wave steepness
Term
The time it takes for a fullwave to pass a stationary object is called the wave
Definition
Period
Term
Deep water waves are
Definition
orbital waves
Term
Celerity of deep water waves is equal to
Definition
wavelength divided by the period
Term
Celerity of a wave train is equal to
Definition
Half the celerity of individual waves
Term
The circular motion of water molecules extends to a depth that is equal to
Definition
Wavelength/2
Term
A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is greater than or equal to
Definition
½ of wavelength
Term
A shallow water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to
Definition
1/20 of the wavelength
Term
The celerity of a shallow water wave is proportional to
Definition
water depth
Term
the speed of a deep water wave is proportional to
Definition
wavelength
Term
the high of a wave depends upon
Definition
fetch, wind duration, and wind speed
Term
the fetch refers to
Definition
the distance over which wind blows without interruption
Term
an internal wave might form
Definition
at a density boundary within the ocean
Term
as a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height
Definition
increases and wavelength decreases
Term
Constructive interference results in larger waves while destructive interference produces
Definition
smaller waves
Term
a wave will finally break when
Definition
the ratio of wave height to water depth equals 3:4
Term
waves that are moving faster than local wind and are sorted out by wavelength are called
Definition
wave trains
Term
waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming a curling crest over an air pocket are called
Definition
plunging breakers
Term
if a surfer wishes to have a really love ride, what type of wave should he or she look for?
Definition
plunging breakers
Term
A tsunami may result from
Definition
tectonic activity on the seafloor
Term
the first wave that forms when the wind begins to blow across the ocean is called
Definition
capillary wave
Term
swells are
Definition
uniform, symmetrical deep water waves that form when wind speed diminishes around the margin of the ocean basin
Term
In general, the restoring force for waves is
Definition
gravity
Term
in wave literature, the term sea refers to
Definition
area where waves are generated by a storm
Term
When the wave approaches the shore its period
Definition
remains the same
Term
sorting of waves by their wavelengths is
Definition
wave dispersion
Term
spilling breakers are the result of
Definition
gently sloping sea floor
Term
plunging breakers are the result of
Definition
moderately sloping seafloors
Term
surging breakers are the result of
Definition
steepest sloping sea floors
Term
beaufort wind scare relates to
Definition
sea state
Term
two forces that cause tides are
Definition
centrifugal and gravitational
Term
the center of mass of the earth-moon system is called the
Definition
barycenter
Term
the tide-generating force varies
Definition
inversely with the cube of the distance between the objects
Term
the tide generating foce varies
Definition
directly with the product of the object masses
Term
compared with a solar day, a lunar day is
Definition
longer than a solar day
Term
The angular distance of the orbital plane of the sun or moon above or below the earth’s equatorial plane is called the
Definition
declination
Term
a spring tide
Definition
has very high high tides and very low low tides
Term
a neap tide has
Definition
low high tides and high low tides
Term
Spring tide occurs about
Definition
twice per month
Term
neap tides occur
Definition
when the moon is at quadrature
Term
when the earth is at its greatest distance from the sun, it is said to be at
Definition
aphelion
Term
The side of the earth that faces the moon experiences a high tide, the side of the earth that is opposite from the moon with have a
Definition
high tide
Term
the vertical difference between high and low tides is called the
Definition
tidal range
Term
Tidal ranges will be the greatest when the earth and the moon are at
Definition
perigee
Term
the center of an open ocean tidal system is called an
Definition
amphidromic center
Term
an area that experiences semidiurnal tides will have
Definition
two high tides and two low tides of nearly equal height daily
Term
an area that experiences diurnal tides will have
Definition
one high tide and one low tide daily
Term
The most common tidal pattern around the world are
Definition
mixed tides
Term
a full tidal cycle is
Definition
24 hours and 50 mins
Term
The Bay of Fundy is well known for which tidal characteristic
Definition
Very high tidal range
Term
The wave formed on a river by the flood tide current is called a
Definition
tidal bore
Term
Water flowing out of an enclosed basin due to the tides is called
Definition
Ebb current
Term
Water flowing into an enclosed basin due to the tides is called
Definition
Flood current
Term
Cotidal lines connect points on the rotary wave that experience
Definition
high tide at the same time
Term
Corange circles are lines connecting points that experience the same
Definition
tidal range
Term
Amphidormic systems rotate ____ in the southern and ___ in the northern
Definition
clock wise and counter clockwise
Term
In an amphidromic system, the wave progresses about a ____ (novertical displacement) with the ___ (maximum vertical displacement) rotating about the basins edges
Definition
node and antinode
Term
Tidal resonance occurs if the period of the basin is similar to
Definition
tidal period
Term
The term trophic in the context of ecology refers to
Definition
nutrition
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