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Textiles Quiz 7
Dyeing
42
Other
Undergraduate 3
11/30/2011

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Cards

Term
Where were the first synthetic dyes produced and in what year?
Definition
Europe; Mid 1800's
Term
What was the first synthetic color?
Definition
Mauve
Term
During WWI, synthetics were cut off from the U.S. in Europe so...
Definition
The U.S. had to create their own ways of dyeing
Term
What are the Stages of Dyeing?
Definition
Fiber Dyeing
Yarn Dyeing
Piece Dyeing
Product Dyeing
Term
What are some types of Fiber Dyeing?
Definition
Solution Dyeing
Stock or Fiber Dyeing
Term
Solution Dyeing
Definition
Add color to the solution or the dope before the fiber is spun out

Because of this, the color becomes an integral part of the fiber

Color fast to most color degradants
Term
What are some other names for Solution Dyeing?
Definition
Mass Pigmentation
Solution Dyeing
Dope Dyeing
Term
Stock or Fiber Dyeing
Definition
The dye is added to the loose fibers before they are spun into yarn

putting color into the solution, the dope, or the loose fibers

good dye penetration, but quite expensive

Use this when you want a heather effect (a gray sweatshirt or t-shirt(gray and white mixed in))
Term
What are three characteristics of fiber Dyeing?
Definition
Best penetration
Most expensive
More permanent
Term
Yarn Dyeing
Definition
less costly than fiber dyeing but more costly than piece or product dyeing

This is when you dye the yarn at yarn stage
Term
What are some examples of yarn Dyeing?
Definition
Tapestry (yarns are one color, not printed on)

denim
gingham
chambray
Term
Piece Dyeing
Definition
When a bolt or roll of fabric is dyed

usually produces solid colored fabrics

Biggest advantage is that you can delay color decisions in order to follow fashion trends prcisely and you will wait till a lot of gray goods come in to dye them
Term
What are the two types of dyeing?
Definition
Cross Dyeing
Union Dyeing
Term
Cross Dyeing
Definition
You have different fibers which results in different colors (you get different colors)

(velvet: acetate and rayon-- purple warp yarns and a gray surface)
Term
Union Dyeing
Definition
You have different fibers but you get one color

(Broadcloth- Polyester and cotton are both dyed as the same blue color which results in one solid color)
Term
Product Dyeing
Definition
If you decide to hold off the dye once product is made up, such as pants or blouse or towel, you can use this process

Have to be really careful so you get a level, uniform color throughout the product

Another concern is that you have to really experiment with any components you're using in the garment so they all react the way you want them to. Have to do textile testing ahead of time (buttons, threads, trim)
Term
What are 2 characteristics of product dyeing?
Definition
Worst penetration
least expensive

(towels, pants, tops, gloves)
Term
Types of Printing Processes
Definition
Direct Printing
Warp Printing
Discharge Printing
Resist Printing
Screen Printing
Stencil Printing
Heat Transfer
Term
Direct Printing
Definition
Apply color directly to the fabric in the pattern and at the location that's desired in the finished fabric
Term
What are the three kinds of direct printing?
Definition
Block
Direct Roller
Duplex Printing
Term
Block
Definition
hand process
oldest technique
seldom done commercially because it's costly and slow
Term
Examples of Direct Roller Printing
Definition
Houndstooth
Pinwheel Pique
Moire Taffeta
Faille

(process: heat transfer of printing are competing with the roller printing market)
Term
Duplex Printing
Definition
When they print on both sides of the fabric
Term
Warp Printing
Definition
Done to the warp yarns

warp yarns are printed

You identify warp prints by their hazy effect (not clean cut, if you ravel off adjacent yarns, the warp yarns are printed but the filling yarns are the color of the background (which is usually just one color)
Term
Discharge Printing
Definition
Piecedyed fabrics where the design is made by removing the color

Usually done on dark backgrounds

Process:
They put on a discharge paste (a chemical) and will print it on the fabric in the design that they want and the chemical will take the color out of the fabric

You can tell it's discharge printing by looking at the back of it (black showing through)
Term
Resist Printing
Definition
Piecedyed fabrics where the color is prevented from entering the fabric
Term
What are the kinds of Resist Printing?
Definition
Batiking
Ikating
Tie-Dyeing
Term
Resist Printing
Definition
Piece-dyed fabrics where the color is prevented from entering the fabric
Term
Batiking
Definition
Hand process where you take hot wax, pour it onto a fabric in the form of a design, and when the wax is set, the fabric is Piece dyed. What happens is that the wax prevents the color from penetrating into the wax portion. The wax will crack and break and leak onto the pattern sometimes, though

Add more than one color but start with light colors first so you can build up in colors

one of the harder processes

Batik #123
Term
Ikating
Definition
old method of resist printing

tie yarn, die it, weave it

Can do to only warp, only filling, or both

don't have a precise edge, have wicking look to them
Term
Tie-Dyeing
Definition
Resist print

hand process where yarn or fabric is wrapped

piece-dyed then remove the string

remove string
Term
Screen Printing
Definition
Done by hand

build a frame, design is in the open screen and the other part is some resist solution

is a hand process but can be a machine process too

t-shirts
printing duffle bags with a sports team logo

Design is applied to mesh of screen, take a squeegee to the dye and pull across
Term
Stencil Printing
Definition
Precursor of screen printing

hand work; slow process
Term
Heat Transfer
Definition
Use heat and pressure which transfers the print onto the fabric

Advantages:
Better penetration
clarity of design
lower production costs
elimination of pollution problems

Disadvantages:
Disposal of waste paper
Term
Jet Printing
Definition
Continuous streams of dye are forced from ink jets

most commonly used in dyeing carpet
Term
Color Problems
Definition
Bleeding
Crocking
Migration
Tendering
Out of Register
Off-Grain Prints
Term
Bleeding
Definition
Color loss in water
risky
Term
Crocking
Definition
Have color loss from rubbing or abrasion

Dark Denim Jeans
Term
Migration
Definition
Shifting of color to the surrounding area or to adjacent surfaces
Term
Tendering
Definition
Occurs in draperies or window coverings

Certain dyes are affected by moisture and sunlight

Don't notice it till dry cleaned or washed

look shredded

tendering or weakening in areas where it had a bad reaction to moisture of sunlight
Term
out of register
Definition
when 2 colors of a print overlap each other or the edges aren't clear
Term
Off-Grain Prints
Definition
talked about in class
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