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Textiles Exam1 Study Guide
Study guide for Textiles exam 1
56
Other
Undergraduate 2
02/04/2014

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Term
What are the big 4 natural fibers?
Definition
1. wool
2. silk
3. cotton
4. linen
Term
What protein is in wool?
Definition
Keratin
Term
What elements make up wool?
Definition
C,H,O,N,S
Term
Characteristics of wool?
Definition
Increased cohesion, bulk, resiliency, elongation, and soft hand
Term
Steps of Wool Production are...
Definition
1. Shearing
2. Sorting
3. Scouring (carbonization, looks clumpy)
4. Carding (combing/arranged)
5. Sliver
6. Spinning (yarn production, twisted into strands)
7. Woolen
Term
The processing of wool is...
Definition
Yarn formation to Finishing
Term
Wool Product Labeling Act (1939): label must contain..
Definition
-fiber content
-% of fibers by weight
-manufacturer
-country of origin
Term
Which wool is the best insulator?
Definition
Camel Wool
Term
Which wool is the rarest, softest, and finest?
Definition
Vicuna
Term
What protein is in Spider Silk?
Definition
Spidroin (amino acid)
Term
What are the properties of spider silk?
Definition
-5x strength of steel
-elasticity
-lightweight
Term
What are the uses of silk?
Definition
-ballistic (bullet proof)
-aerospace (protection)
-medical (sutures, artificial ligaments)
Term
The con of silk is...
Definition
it costs $1000/g
Term
Characteristics of SIlk...
Definition
1. Silk is a natural filament,
2. has sericin
3. very lustrous
Term
Define degumming
Definition
When Sericin is removed from silk
Term
Name some silk finishes...
Definition
-more dyability
-more luster
-softens hand
-lower weight, body
Term
What is textile fiber?
Definition
natural or manufactured substance with high length to width ratio
Term
Name 3 qualities of fibers
Definition
1. Hair-like
2. smallest component of a textile product
3. possess suitable characteristics for further processing
Term
What is yarn?
Definition
A group of fibers twisted or laid together to form a continuous strand that influences the texture and performance of fabrics.
Term
What is a textile product?
Definition
Any flexible material which is made of thin films, fibers, yarns, or fabrics.
Term
For fiber to be used in a textile product, it has to have:
Definition
1. length
2. stength/tenacity
3. pliability
4. cohesion
Term
Fibers environmental resistance:
Definition
1. chemicals
2. UV light
3. Weather (including light)
4. biological (organisms)
5. flame (resists burning)
6. Heat (resists high temps)
Term
Name 3 Cellulosic fibers:
Definition
1. Seed (cotton: coir, milkweed)
2. Bast (linen: juste, ramie, hemp, kenaf)
3. Leaf (pina, abaca, sisal)
Term
Process of Beetling?
Definition
-pounding
-smooth surface
-close spaces between yarns
-increased luster & drape
Term
Cut section of Linen:
Definition
-polygon shape
-fibril bundles
-lumen visible
Term
Shaft profile of Linen:
Definition
-nodes (nodules)
-rigid rod; no crimp
Term
Characteristics of Hemp:
Definition
-strong
-absorbent
-biological resistant
-decreased elongation and elastic recovery
Term
What is Hemp used for?
Definition
-cordage
-twine
-thread/shoe stitching
-apparel
-accessory items
Term
What is Kenaf used for?
Definition
Paper application that doesn't yellow quickly
Term
External Morphology (form) of Long Filament
Definition
-no fiber ends
-little/no pilling
-measured in yd/m
-spinneret extrusion
Term
External Morphology of Short Staple
Definition
-measure in in/cm
-fibers ends visible
-absorbent
-DOES pill/lint
-staple fibers are spun yarns
Term
External Morphology of Fiber Diameter
Definition
Natural-given
-micrometers
-irregular
mf=controlled
Term
Denier of fiber:
Definition
wt. of 9,000 m
Tex=wt. of 1,000 m
Term
External Morphology of Fiber Cross Section
Definition
Natural=irregular
MF=uniform
influences are: luster, cover, hand, texture, bulk
Term
External Morphology of Surface Contour
Definition
-influenced by cross-section
Striations: shadow lines
Delusterants: specks
Term
External Morphology of Fiber Crimp
Definition
-Waves, bends, twists on shaft
-natural, chemical, mechanical
Term
Internal Morphology: Chemical Structure
Definition
-Activer/inert
-Fibers have C-C structure (except mineral)
Term
Define Mer
Definition
basic unit
(mono-mer vs poly-mer)
Term
Good Characteristics of Protein Fibers
Definition
-high resiliency
-high elasticity
-high weight/density
-high absorbency (moisture regain 11-18%)
Term
Where does moisture go on the protein fibers?
Definition
-btwn yarns
-btwn fibers in the yarn
-on fiber surface
-w/i the fiber structure
Term
Bad characteristics of Protein Fibers
Definition
-low tenacity
-lower wet strength
-low abrasion resistance
-low dimensional stability (esp. wool)
-low UV/Weather resistance
-not for outdoor use
Term
Morphology (form) of Wool
Definition
-3-D staple fiber
-natural crimp
Term
Good characteristics of Wool
Definition
-high cohesion
-high bulk
-high resiliency
-high elongation
-soft hand
Term
Combed Wool is also called:
Definition
Worsted
Term
Carded Wool is also called:
Definition
Woolen
Term
Dimensional Stability of Wool
Definition
-felting
-wool cuticle (scales)
Term
Wool cuticles (scales) interlock due to...
Definition
Heat + Moisture + Agitation
Term
Name some Washable Wool finishes
Definition
-Nylon-coat scales
-subject to Abrasian
-chlorination to bleach away scales
Term
Silk Sericulture
Definition
-cultivated silk production
-silk moth lays eggs---> silkworm hatches
-feed on mulberry leaves
-spins cocoons by forcing "liquid silk" from head orifice
Term
External Morphology of Silk
Definition
-filament fiber
-no cuticles/scales
-transparent fiber
-smooth --->NO crimps
-small diameter
-triangular cross section
Term
Main characteristics of Silk:
Definition
Luster: good
hand: smooth
drape: good
resiliency: moderate
Term
External Morphology of Cellulosic Fiber
Definition
-kidney shaped fiber in cut section
-cuticle has a waxy protective layer
-primary wall is structural
-DP: 10,000
70% crystalline/30% amorphous
Term
Contributes of Cellulosic Fibers
Definition
-Twist, elongation, elasticity
Term
Internal Morphology of Cellulosic Fiber
Definition
-collapses as fiber matures
-decreased absorbency
Term
Characteristics of cellulosic fiber
Definition
-twists down fiber length
-2-D crimp
-gives fiber cohesion
-collects soil
Term
define Mercerization
Definition
alkali yarn/fiber treatment
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