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| elements of the 3-6 month mass production process |
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| (pg 76) 1. evaluation 2. design 3. sourcing 4. preproduction 5. production 6. distribution 7. promotion and sales |
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analyze previous line- sales figures (styles or models that sold best) returns
market research |
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trend research (what phase of fashion cycle)
focus groups
fashion/color forecasting |
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1.line development
2.preliminary line approval
3. fabric/findings research
4. first pattern
5.prototypes |
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-color story and dsign concepts that reflect ideas for plan for season
line/collection- series of related designs produced by manufacturer |
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| preliminary line approval |
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line presentation boards(group of sketches presented to decision makers) and story boards (support choices of style direction, color, fabric, and pattern)
-take designs and decide what they like and dont like, discuss cost, discuss different methods of how to make it cheaper. come to a conclusion then show to upper management. a lot of research and background work |
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(pick which fabric will best fit that design) different fabrics affect hang and drape of the garment
-"mill week" represent. from major mills present latest fabrics
-fabric shows (interiors) |
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set standards for sizes etc (pattern for prototype)
SLOPER/BASIC BLOCK companies basic pattern |
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-experimental garments made from first patterns
not yet massmade- made out of first pattern- usually handmade |
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refers both to process of selecting
raw materials
contracting
costing
wholesale price
retail price
money saving |
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| where your going to get the fabrics from |
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domestically
off shore
mixture
*have to take into consideration COST and TIME (lead time, production capacity availibility) |
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*process of estimating and then determining the total cost of producing a garment- including cost of materials, labor, and transporation
-precosting
production costing- |
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fabric testing
garment specs
color/print approval
findings approval
care label
preproduction garment
product patterns
grading
marker making |
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finalized based on lab tests confirming compliance of prospective fabrics with company fabric performance standards
-well in advance of garment bc fabric has to be made |
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| specifications that are given to designer on garment |
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| necessary b/c different fabrics require different dye formulas to achieve the same desire color |
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| the biggest thing is the color- different materials/textiles dye differently |
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(trial unties from every new style made using actual production techniques in the manufacturing plant)
2-5 garments in each size- these are used to verify the size and fit |
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(when all garments in line finalized and chosen-final pattern for mass production) pattern maker converts first patterns into these "hard patterns" for optimum fabric utilization
want to save the most fabric- have to come up with the best ways to fit fabric pieces |
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spreading
cutting
sample garments
decorative details
sewing production |
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machine/manual N.O.W. N.E.W.
-action of laying multiple plies of clotho n a table before cloth is cut
--key factor in controlling product cost |
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if you cut the fabric the wrong way, you are going to mess up a lot of fabric
-affects quality of finisged garment |
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mass made- making sure everything is working well
first garments made |
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subcontracted
deciding when and where these are added on
depends on the garment and where it needs to overlap |
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PARTS: the small pieces (ex collars) are usually added on
PANELS: make up the body of the garment
BUNDLE:
PAGE 100 |
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WET PROCESSING: if there are any messups- W.P magnifys it
-adds finish to assembled garments |
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| either stam irons or pressing machines- heat and moisture pg 106 |
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AQL (acceptable Quality Level)
-final steps in production of garment- adding finsing details, trimming and inspecitn, repairing |
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shipping method
customs broker
distribution center/drop ship pg 106
IAQL (incoming accpetable quality level) |
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| advertising, sales promotion (visual displays, events), publicity, personal selling |
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| line development/lead time calanders/ time-and-action calendars |
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help in scheduling of key activities during all stages of production cycle
-separate calenders for each selling season developed for each product line |
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new strategies, with emphasis on fast, inovative responses
-reflect new demands from consumers, gorwing competition, cutting-edge technoloiges, and increasing globalization |
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| interface between an organization and its customers- it is the use of the companys resources to meet the customers needs, wants, and demands w/ goal of making profit |
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| designers or merchandiers shop the market and purchase examples of competitors products, which are carefully scrutinized for fit, fabrication, physical performance, appearance and price |
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| pattern is drawn using body measurements of typical target customer (first pattern) |
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| preliminary estimate "best guess" of what it will cost to produce the garment "quick cost" accurate within 10-15% |
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based on sample or detailed sketch of garment, accompanied by written specifications
1. fabric 2. findings 3. labor 4. overhead 5. other |
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expenses of operating business beyond the direct costs of producing gamrents
-factory, new equipment, technology, maintenance, buildings, cost of capital, taxes, salaries |
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| (accurate costing helps man. establish this) the price man charge retailers |
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| highest price that can be charged without dampening sales |
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| style sold at a loss to attract buyers to a line |
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| as a general rule, to cover operating expenses and still make a profit, retailers approximately double the whoesale cost to obtain the intitial retail price of a garment |
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| profit improvement programs |
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help meet these cost and quality challenges
-usually industrial engineers |
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| print samples from which manufacturer can choose |
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long, narrow swatches of a fabric cut from different dye lots, all with acceptable variations of shade
-used to maintain consistency of coloration on incoming fabric |
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| carelabels in preproduction |
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| labels must be written and produced early in production cycle. they cannot be written until fabric and findings are tested and refurbishing instructions determined |
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| garment classification w/ us customs |
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(import only)--preproduction
determines the tariff rate or duty of goods imported
use following criteria
1.%weight of each fiber
2. fabric construction (woven/knit)
3. gender of intended wearer
4. item description |
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| when incorrect classification- gods are denied entry into the US if quota for that classification is filled |
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classifying garments with us customs service before their arrival
-helps importers avoid costly delays
-ideal time at concept and design stage |
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(preclassification requires importer to furnish us customs, plus this)
-written explanations of details in sketches |
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| binding tariff classification ruling |
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| us customs service classification of a garment for import purposes; good for the life of its production |
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grading the production pattern involves increasing and decreasing its dimensions to reflect the various sizes to be produced
-also refers to triming the seam allowances of enclosed seam |
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| criteria extablishing the amount of difference between clothing sizes for a particular manufacturer |
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| all sized of graded patterns, superimposed on one another |
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MARKER(indicates how all the pattern pieces of the garment are arranged on the fabric to achieve the most efficient layout)
-marker maker moves the pieces around until a tight marker is achieved
-to achieve better MATERIAL UTILIZATION, the MM may allow some pattern pieces to touch or slightly overlap (page 95) |
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| contain a balanced arrangement of stripes on each side of the dominant horizontal and vertical bars |
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| vary in the arrangement of stripes on each side of the dominant horizontal and vertical bar-- require additional fabric for matching |
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use suction to compress and stabilize multiple plies of fabric and hold them in place
-allow economical and accurate cutting of tall lay-ups |
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| progressive bundle system |
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factories produce garments on assembly line
-id tickets attached to bunchles |
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| groups operators into teams, or modules. team works on one garment at a time instead of bundle of garments |
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| refers to combiniation of various manufacturing techniques based on product being produced |
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| garment rinsing/ garment washing |
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most basic of wet process
-garments laundered using large washers to soften garments |
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