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| Tapa. Fabric created from the inner cloth of certain trees. It is matted/felted through pounding. |
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| tattoo. pan-polynesian word. |
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| chisel used to create tattoo |
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| King, considered to be a descendant from the gods. But, the most important member of Tongan society is Tu'i Tonga Tufina- His older sister. |
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kie fau- used as wrapping. made from hibiscus plant. only worn by chiefs because it's hard to make. openwork pattern.
Tonga. |
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| sisi fale- Fabric adorned with coconut fiber shapes only worn by HIGHEST chiefs. some had fine red feathers. sacred. |
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| Craftsman, specialist, priest. those who create fine goods. Tonga. |
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| Pala tavake- Special woven "crown" Made for Paulaho (Tu'i Tonga at time of Cook's voyage). Made of woven fibers. |
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| fue kafa. Fly whisk held by aristocracy. Sea ivory (made from beached sperm whales) inlaid into handle of some. Carved using stone and shark teeth (no metal in Polynesia). Only high chiefs use them. Certain level of aristocracy associated with fly whisk. Most were undecorated. |
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| Closely linked with Tonga and Fiji. Stratified society. Everyone has a special place for seating at the counsil house, 2 highest ranking officials sit across from each other. |
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| pe'a. Term for male tattoo in Samoa. Tattoo on commoners is totally black. People with rank get patterns and bands. Like a bat wrapping itself around person. |
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| Malu. female Samoan tattoo. More delicate, smaller, and sacred. Needed in order to serve kava, special drink. Very symmetric. Represents vulva because it is forever impenetrable, virginity is forever intact. |
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| Extremely jagged, only way to get from one valley to another is by canoe. Women are expendable, but more or less egalitarian society. |
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| Specialist. Performed rituals on firstborn son of chief: Presentation, penis incision, ear piercing, tattooing, marriage. An expert in rites and traditions. |
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| ha'akai: Made of whale ivory. Disk on outside of ear, spike goes through ear, may be kept in place by a small figure. |
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| taiana: Smaller than ha'akai, made of ivory (sometimes) also or bone. |
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| paekaha: made of sennit band (coconut fiber). attached are turtle shell bands. carved with tiki relief. also polished conch shell bands. worn by high ranking men and women. not owned by individuals, passed down through family. whatever member that needs to wear it, can. |
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| kapkap- chest or forhead ornament |
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| u'u: club with large head. engraved. all have rounded top. convex ovals. tiki head. crossbar below head of club leading to handle. very heavy, any man of position would have one. |
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| New Zealand. Moko tattoos. |
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| toki pou tangata: Ceremonial adze carried by Maori chief. Decorated wooden handle with nephrite blade. Nephrite is a storage place for mana. |
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| patu: tear-dropped shape, carved out of jade, nephrite, etc. weapon. |
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| kotiate: aka fiddle club. almost looks like violin. feathers can be attached to them. |
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| wahaika: carved handclub with concave and convex edge. sometimes adorned with human figures. |
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| taiaha: used in hand to hand contact |
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| hei tiki: Most prized of all personal adornments. nephrite pendant, human figure with head turned to side, and curving arms and legs. When person dies, the hei tiki is burned with them then it is retrieved and passed on to the next generation. |
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| Moko. Tattoo. Every one is unique. Women is usually confined to lips and chin. Lip tattoo is required to be attractive. Men are tattooed on face, body but only special men can have forehead/upper lips/ other facial features tattooed. To give in to pain was unmanly, unlike in the Marquesas. Serves as signature on treaties. |
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| Omak: tally stick, keeps track of gifts given. |
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| Type of ceremonial exchange. "Big Man" gives a gift to exchange partner. Body decoration is center of attention. System of competition. Self-made wealth that Big Man must share. Shell valuable & pig gifts. Big Moka is final ceremony in a long series. |
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| koi wal: worn by donors. king of saxony, bird of paradise feathers. every man needs one. Criteria: Not sparse, well arranged, balanced, not too light/dark for context, individual disguised. |
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| waep: face painting. very carefully done. specific designs. more variation than in koi wal. dark coloring- measure of hostility towards other groups. |
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| A bound foot of less than 3" |
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| a bound foot measuring greater than 4" |
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| Characters in Chinese Opera |
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| older woman. mothers/aunts/widows. little/no makeup. natural singing voice. subdued costume. |
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| Wu dan: Female acrobatic role equivalent to wu shen. |
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| hua dan: feistry/ flirtatious. difficult to play successfully. continuous, quick movement. mischievous and attractive. many hand movements/ upper class women don't show hands all the time. vivid costume/ colors.. usually jacket and pants. not as virtuous/ subtle as Qing Li. Lots of speaking. |
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| Qing Li: Noblewoman. Chinese ideal. Faithful wife. Model of propriety. Graceful movements. long "water" sleeves. elaborate yet simple dress. high pitched singing voice, still pure quality. |
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| Young, unmarried, could develop into either Qing Li or Hua Dan. Usually considered from wealthy family. |
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| Dao Ma Don Sheng: Female warrior |
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| Lao Sheng: A middle aged or old man. |
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| Hsiao Sheng: Young men. Sing in falsetto or wobbly voice to show age change. |
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| wu sheng: acrobat, fighting male, young martial type. specialize in kung fu. red-ish face. speaks in actor's natural voice. sometimes wear trousers covered by gown. |
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Most recognizable part of Chinese Opera. High ranking general, bandit, warrior, or official. over 1000 face decoration patterns.
red=courage and virtue
black= honest, stern, rough
yellow= rash
white=treacherous
blue= cruelty, wild temperament
gold/silver= reserved for god/demons
many mix colors to show complex personalities. the character to watch. |
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| Clown. Common guy. Only character to speak in vernacular. Unsophisticated. Current events. White makeup around eyes. Can be funny, kind, cruel, etc. |
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| capital play. opera is born. |
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| Mei Lanfang: One of the most well known male actors to play female leads. Played over 100 roles. |
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| Replace Chinese Opera. No costumes/makeup |
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| Kanzashi: Ornaments made out of silk worn by Maiko. |
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| Attempt to revive geisha; dressed as maiko. play-acting, not real geishas. |
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| Obi: Sash or belt tied around waste. |
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| Maiko okobo: Very tall naturally colored shoes with a bell. |
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| Tabi: Sock worn by geisha and maki but not oiran. |
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