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| a near shore, coast parallel island of sand built up by waves and commonly capped by wind blown sand dunes. |
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| addition of sand to a beach to replace that lost to the waves |
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| an artificial offshore barrier to waves constructed to create calm water for a beach or for anchoring boats |
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| the distance over which wind blows over a body of water. the longer the fetch the larger the waves that will be developed |
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| wall of boulders, concrete or wood built out into the surf from the waters edge to trap sand that moves in longshore drift. The intent is hinder loss of sand from the beach |
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| an erosionally resistant point of land jutting out into the sea and often standing straight |
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| walls of boulders, concrete, or wood built perpendicular to the coast at the edges of a harbor, estuary, or river mouth. The intent is to prevent sediment from blocking a shipping channel |
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| the gradual migration of sand or gravel along the shoreline resulting from waves repeatedly carrying the sediment grains obliquely up onto shore and then straight back to the waters edge |
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| the time between seismic waves or the time between the peaks recorded on a seismograph |
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| a short lived surface current that flows directly off a beach and though the breaker zone. it carries water back to the sea that and piled up onto the beach |
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| coarse rock piled at the shoreline in an attempt to prevent wave erosionof the shore or destruction of a nearshore structure or a stream bank |
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| an accumulation of wind blown sand, most commonly along the upper beach above high tide level |
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| walls of boulders, concrete, or wood built along a beach front and intended to protect shore structures from wave erosion |
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| the rapid sea level rise caused by both low atmospheric pressure of a major storm and the strong winds that accompany the storm and push water forward |
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| a deep canyon in the continental shelf and slope offshore and extending aout perpendicular to the shore |
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| the capacity of a wave to do work- that is to erode the shore. because wave energy is proportional to the square of wave height, high waves do almost all coastal erosion |
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| the vertical distance between a wave crest and an adjacent trough |
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| the distance from crest to crest of a wave- for example, in an earthquake wave or a water wave |
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| the bending of wave crests where one end of the wave drags bottom and slows down in shallower water |
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| submergent and emergent coastlines |
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Emergent coastlines are stretches along the coast that have been exposed by the sea due to a relative fall in sea levels.
submergent are below sea level due to rise in sea level |
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| eustatic and local sea level change |
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“Eustatic” change (as opposed to local change) results in an alteration to the global sea levels, such as changes in the volume of water in the world oceans or changes in the volume of an ocean basin.
Local mean sea level (LMSL) is defined as the height of the sea with respect to a land benchmark, averaged over a period of time (such as a month or a year) long enough that fluctuations caused by waves and tides are smoothed out |
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| is the narrow flat area often seen at the base of a sea cliff or along a large lake shore caused by the action of the waves. It forms after destructive waves hit against the cliff face, causing undercutting between the high and low water marks, mainly as a result of corrasion and hydraulic power, creating a wave-cut notch. |
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| A wave-cut platform, or shore platform is the narrow flat area often seen at the base of a sea cliff or along a large lake shore caused by the action of the waves. It forms after destructive waves hit against the cliff face, causing undercutting between the high and low water marks, mainly as a result of corrasion and hydraulic power, creating a wave-cut notch. This notch then enlarges into a cave. |
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