Term
| As deep water waves approach shore, they... |
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Definition
become shallow-water waves
-decrease in wave speed
-decrease in wavelength
-increase in wave height
-increase in wave steepness |
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Term
| when steepness is greater than.....the wave breaks |
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
| the zone of breaking water waves near shore |
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Term
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Definition
| where water is becoming gradually more shallow |
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Term
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Definition
gently sloping/flat sea floor
wave energy is expended over a longer distance
the water slides down the front slope of the wave |
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Term
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Definition
moderately steep sea floor
wave energy is expended over a SHORTER distance
BEST for board surfers
curling wave crest |
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Definition
steepest sea floor
energy spread over the SHORTEST distance
BEST for body surfing
waves break on the shore |
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Term
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Definition
-a change in direction when a wave experiences a shift in wavelength and speed
-as a wave travels from deep to shallow water, the wavelength shortens, the speed slows down
-SO the wave will refract/bend in order to conserve energy!!!
-creates erosion on headland/ sediments accumulate at a point |
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Term
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Definition
occurs when a wave encounters an obstruction in its path and changes direction or wraps around it
-can also occur when a wave moves through a small opening in a seawalls or b/w two islands |
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Term
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Definition
-when waves and wave energy bounce back from a barrier
-this can interfere with the next incoming wave
-constructive interference can happen, which can create dangerous plunging breakers |
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Term
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Definition
-two waves with the same wavelength move towards each other then away from each other
-sloshing motion
-water continues to oscillate back and forth for several hours or even days
-water particles move horizontally AND vertically |
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Term
| Standing waves are causes by.... |
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
sudden sea floor topography changes
--earthquakes (most common cause), underwater landslides, underwater volcano collapse or eruption, meteorite impact (splash wave) |
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Term
| "tsunami" is japanese for... |
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Definition
"harbor wave"
NO connection with tides
they are a series of waves over the course of hours; the first wave may not be the largest |
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Term
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Definition
LONG (20 to 100's of km)
this is why you cannot see the next wave coming
the wave grows in height at the coast (only cm high in the deep ocean)
--travels fast in the deep ocean BUT slows down at coast (still can't outrun, though) |
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Term
| Tsunamis behave as what kind of wave? |
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Definition
shallow-water wave
it encompasses the entire water column, regardless of the water depth |
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Term
| Tsunami watch vs. Tsunami Warning |
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Definition
Watch:
issued when the POTENTIAL for a tsunami exists
Warning:
issued when unusual wave activity is actually VERIFIED
people are evacuated
ships are moved from the harbor--AWAY from stye shore, farther out to sea |
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Term
| Tsunami Forecast and Warning Systems |
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Definition
Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC)
-Honolulu, Hawaii
-uses seismic wave recordings to forecast tsunamis
-aka PREDICT so people can be warned
Deep Ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunami (DART)
-a system of buoys that detects pulses of a tsunami passing
-can predict when waves will hit shore |
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Term
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Definition
mostly the western coast of North America
the Eastern coast of Asia (India)
most are local/regional tsunamis |
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Term
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Definition
the source of the tsunami is NEAR the community
waves arrive within minutes |
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Term
| if it is a earthquake-generated tsunami, there will be... |
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Definition
strong ground-shaking causing building damage
rapid sea level change
land level change (rupture or uplift in ground) |
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Term
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Definition
few years, sometimes one year after year
but larger more impactful tsunamis are infrequent
**2004 tsunami in Indonesia caused the most casualties |
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Term
| Tsunami Modeling is important because it demonstrates: |
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Definition
when tsunamis will hit the coast
how far inland will it flood
how strong the currents are
--creates a map of all possible scenarios
--important fro community evacuation plans |
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Term
| Sumatra, Indonesia Tsunami |
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Definition
--killed up to 300,000 people in 11 countries
-traveled more than 5000 km!!!!
-wavelength was about 500 km!!!!
--there was lack of a warning system in the Indian Ocean |
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Term
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Definition
Due to Tohuku Earthquake
most EXPENSIVE tsunami in history because it disrupted power at the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear power plant
killed about 20,000 people |
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Term
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Definition
| gravitational effects by the moon, sun and earth's spin |
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Term
| Microtidal ranges are less than... |
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Definition
2M
Mesotidal ranges are between 2 and 4 Meteres
Macrotidal ranges are greater than 4 Meters |
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Term
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Definition
Spring/high tide
-occur when the earth, moon, and sun are all aligned
-new or full moons
Neap Tides
-when the earth, moon, and sun are at right angles
-minimal tide (1st and 3rd quarter)
-quarter moons |
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Term
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Definition
Tidal period
-time between high tides
Flood tide-water moving toward the shore
Ebb tide-water moving away from the shore |
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Term
| high slack water vs. low slack water |
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Definition
high slack water
-peak of each high tide with NO motion from currents
low slack water
-peak of each low tide with NO motion from currents |
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Term
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Definition
Diurnal
-one high tide and one low tide per day
Semidurnal
-two high tides and two low tides per day
-tidal ranges are about the same
mixed
-like diurnal (two highs and two lows) EXCEPT the tidal ranges are different
-THIS IS THE MOST COMMON |
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Term
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Definition
tide-generated walls of water
the leading edge of the incoming tide forms a wave or multiple waves
travel UPRIVER |
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Term
| Tides can be trapped to create tide-generated power by... |
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Definition
creating coastal barriers in bays/estuaries that turn electrical turbines
tidal currents in narrow channels turn underwater turbines
**TIDES DO NOT PRODUCE POWER ON DEMAND
***but they ARE a renewable resource |
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Term
| Whirlpools are created when... |
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Definition
a restricted channel connects two basins with DIFFERENT tidal cycles
ex: Maelstrom near Arctic Norway |
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Term
| Intertidal Zone is also called the... |
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Definition
LITTORAL ZONE
shoreline between the high and low tide marks
exposed at low tide, immersed at high tide |
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Term
| Intertidal Vertical Zonation |
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Definition
the vertical distribution of organisms as a result of low and high tide
-this distribution results from interacting biotic and abiotic factors
-upper limits are defined by abiotic factors
-lower limits are defined by biological factors |
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Term
| the velocity of tidal currents is highest ... |
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Definition
| right after it hits highest slack water and is ebbing out |
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