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Coastal Systems and Landforms
Coastal environment
35
Geography
Undergraduate 1
04/16/2013

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Cards

Term
What is the littoral zone?
Definition
Extends landward as far as the water line and extends seaward to where the water is too deep for waves to move sediment on the seafloor (~60m)
Term
What is the shoreline?
Definition
Shifting line of contact between land and sea (defined by each wave and tides)
Term
Define coast.
Definition
A zone in which coastal processes operate or have a strong influence
Term
Describe the continental shelf.
Definition
Gently sloping submarine surface extending from the coastline to the steep continental slope.
Has shallow waters, sunlight can penetrate, very rich and fertile
Term
What does the width of the continental shelf depend on?
Definition
The plate boundary
passive margin (wide), active margin (narrow)
Term
Describe the continental slope.
Definition
Steeply sloping submarine surface that's seaward of the continental shelf (~15 degree slope). Experiences mass movements.
Term
Describe waves of transition.
Definition
Very little movement of water out in deep ocean waters; movement of energy.
Term
Describe waves of translation.
Definition
When water gets shallower, begins to interact with the bottom, churning of matter (increase in wave height); movement of energy and matter.
Term
What is the relationship between wave depth and wave length?
Definition
Wave depth is ~1/2 the wavelength
Term
What causes waves?
Definition
Friction along the water's surface with moving air.
Term
What are 3 factors affecting waves?
Definition
Wind velocity, wind duration, and distance of uninterrupted sea (fetch)
Term
What is a tsunami?
Definition
A destructive wave caused by earthquakes, submarine land slides, or underwater volcanic eruptions that travel at 600-800km/h
Term
What is storm surge?
Definition
Rise in sea level associated with powerful storms (innundates coastal environments)
Term
Describe tides.
Definition
Daily oscillations in sea level that vary spatially and temporally
Term
What are causes of tides?
Definition
High Tides - When gravitational or centrifugal force exceeds the other
Low Tide - when neither force can prevail
Term
Describe spring tides
Definition
Time when lunar and solar tides coincide.
Largest tidal variation. Earth, sun, moon, in line.
Term
Describe neap tides
Definition
Moon is at a right angle from the earth and sun. Low variation in tidal range.
Term
What are factors affecting tidal range?
Definition
Presence of a large water body, presence of a wide continental shelf, other submarine topography, and whether its occurring in a gulf, bay, or inlet.
Term
Describe wave refraction.
Definition
Waves bend as they approach the shore and are concentrated in areas of high energy (convergence) and areas of low energy (divergence).
Term
Waves of convergence (high energy)....
Definition
erode headlands
Term
Waves of divergence (low energy)...
Definition
deposit sediment
Term
Describe littoral drift.
Definition
Waves come in on an angle and go back to sea at 90 degree angles. This results in sediment being moved down beaches.
Term
What are some protections against littoral drift?
Definition
Groins and jettys
Term
What are 8 characteristic features of erosional coastlines?
Definition
Beaches, Sea Cliffs, Marine Terraces, Headlands, Bays, Sea Caves, Sea Arches, and Sea Stacks
Term
What are 5 characteristic features of depositional coastlines?
Definition
Deltas, Lagoons, Baymouth Bars, Tombolos, and Spits
Term
Where are erosional coastlines most common?
Definition
Tectonically active margins with coasts of soft materials.
Term
Where are depositional coastlines most common?
Definition
Along land of gentle relief with abundant sediment and along passive plate boundaries.
Term
What is a sea arch a result of?
Definition
It is result of wave defraction concentrating energy on headlands.
Term
Sea Stacks are...
Definition
Collapsed sea arches.
Term
What is a tombolo a result of?
Definition
Heavily eroded headlands leaves an island creating low energy backwaters that deposit sand (link between mainland and island)
Term
What is a barrier island?
Definition
Long, narrow depositional feature that forms offshore parallel to the coast. High in sediment, low tidal variations.
Term
What are 4 types of coastlines? Describe them.
Definition
Passive Margin - low relief, broad coastal plains, wide continental shelf, and deposition
Active Margin - high relief, narrow coastal plain, narrow continental shelf, and active mountain building/volcanoes
Emergence - water level has lowerd/land has risen leaving coastal landfrom elevated above seashore (active margins)
Submergence - water level has risen/tectonics have lowered (creates Rias and Fjords)
Term
What is coral?
Definition
A marine animal that secrets calcium carbonate to form a hard external skeleton (biologically derived sedimentary rock)
Term
What are the 4 specific conditions coral require?
Definition
10-55m water depth, clear water/no sediment, water temp 18-29, and salinity 27-40%
Term
What is coral bleaching?
Definition
Coral expelling their algae and dying. Likely because rising sea levels, ocean temps, and salinity.
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