Details Title: Coastal Processes and Landscapes Description: Geomorphology/Intro. to Landforms Total Flash Cards: 60 Created: 07/30/2009 15:17:47		New Users: To study from this flashcard set, or to create your own your own study flash cards, REGISTER HERE. Existing Users: CLICK HERE. Additional Geology Flashcards
Cards in this set: Term Define Coast. Definition A special zone where interaction of both the sea and land process occur.  (Oceans only) Term Define Shore. Definition a fringe of land at the edge of a large body of water , such as oceans, seas, or lakes. Term Littoral Zone Definition from the highest water line to a point where the water is about 200 ft deep Term Define Beach. Definition coastal zone of sediment shaped by wave action Term Define Waves Definition a disturbance on the surface of a liquid body, as the sea or the lake in the form of a moving ridge or swell. Term How is the size of a wave determined? Definition size determined by wind velocity, direction, duration, & fetch (distance over which the wind blows) Term Identify and explain the wave components. Definition * wave components: 1) height: vertical distance between the crest & the trough 2) length: horizontal distance from one crest to the next 3) period: time interval between 2 successive crests passing a fixed point * swells: a formation of long wavelength ocean surfaces.   Term Define Wave of Translation Definition  a phenomenon in which the nonlinear and dispersive components of wave motion cancel each other, allowing a single pulse of a wave to travel an unusually long distance without losing its form or much amplitude. Term What is a Breaker? Definition a wall of moving, turbulent surf. Term Identify the agents that work on coastal components. Definition Waves, currents, and tides Term Identify the coastal components. Definition coast, shore, littoral zone, beach Term Define Wave Refraction Definition wave bending; caused by the irregular shape of the shore compared to the incoming wave  Term Identify the four types of breakers. Definition spilling, plunging, surging, collapsing Term Define Surf. Definition a series of breaking waves Term Define swash. Definition the thin sheet of water that slides up the beach after a wave breaks. Term What is backwash? Definition the water from the swash that flows back toward the ocean  Term Name the two types of currents. Definition Long shore currents, rip currents Term Longshore Currents Definition generated by refracted waves; moves parallel to the coast, helping to move sand  Term Define Longshore Drift Definition Created by Longshore Current; the transport of sand along the beach. Term Define Rip Current Definition narrow, stream-like flows of water moving perpendicular to and away from the shore. Term How will the sand move when it is in a longshore current? Definition by suspension and saltation Term Which way does a longshore current move in relation to the coast? Definition Parallel Term Which way does a rip current move in relation to the coast? Definition Perpendicular Term In which direction does a rip current move in relation to the coast? Definition Perpendicular Term What is a tide? Definition the cyclical rise and fall of water level on the shore due to the Earth's rotation, gravitational pull of the moon, and gravitational pull of the sun. Term What are the processes of degradational land forms? Definition Hydrolic action, corrasion, corrosion, attrition Term What is Hydraulic Action? Definition work of moving water against the shore; erosional process Term Define Corrasion Definition the use of rock fragments in a wave to help erode the shore; erosional process Term Define Corrosion Definition chemical breakdown; erosional process Term What is attrition? Definition Pounding waves reduce large fragments to smaller ones; erosional process Term How do landslides affect coastal processes? Definition causes erosion Term What is a sea cliff? Definition steep coastal cliff-like ridge; the result of erosion by waves on a headland (resistant rock coastline); erosional landform Term Define Sea Cave Definition created by waves undercutting at the base of a sea cliff; erosional landform Term What is a wave-cut platform? Definition the slightly sloped foot at base of sea cliff; erosional landform.  Term What are sea arches? Definition rock arch under which water can flow; erosional landform Term What are sea stacks? Definition isolated columns or bits of the former headland; erosional landform   Term Explain offshore. Definition area that is always submerged, even at low tide, out to a depth of  about 200 ft; longshore bars may develop in this area; also longshore currents' depositional area. Term What is a fore shore? Definition area exposed at low tide and covered at high tide; where the most erosion can be seen; depositional area Term What is a back shore? Definition from high tide line to dune line; results in flat sandy beach beyond daily wave action; depositional area. Term What is berm? Definition flat sandy beach beyond daily wave action Term What are Coastal Dunes? Definition created by eolian processes (wind action), with berm sand the primary supply source; depositional landform. Term What is sandspit? Definition elongated extension of beach into open water in front of a bay or other inlet; formed by a longshore drift; depositional landform Term What are Baymouth Bars? Definition a spit which grows all the way across a bay opening; depositional landform   Term What is a tombolo? Definition a deposition of sand, which joins an island or rock outcropping with the mainland and is usually oriented perpendicular to the shore; depositional landform Term What are barrier islands? Definition permanent offshore or longshore bar; protects the mainlands. Term Give examples of barrier islands. Definition Cape Hatteras, Miami Beach, Atlantic City, Chandelier Islands in Mississippi, and in Georgia:  Cumberland, Sapelo, Jeckyll, St. Simon's Islands; depositional landforms Term What is a bay? Definition broad indentation into a coastline; larger than a cove but smaller than a gulf Term What is a cove? Definition small indentation in a coastline Term What is a lagoon? Definition shallow body of water that lies between a barrier island, or a baymouth bar and the mainland; the water body of an atoll is also called a lagoon  Term What is the difference between emergent and submergent coastlines? Definition Emergent coastlines appear to be "uplifted", either due to the sea level falling, or land being raised. Submergent coastlines seem to be sinking, either by sea level rising (melting glaciers) or the land sinking. Term Give an example of an emergent coastline. Definition West coast of the United States. Term Give an example of a submergent coastline. Definition East coast of the United States. Term What is a living shoreline? Definition those created by, or composed primarily of living organisms Term What is a coral reef? Definition built of coral & the marine limestone deposits they create; type of a living shoreline. Term What is an atoll? Definition a circular coral reef with a lagoon in the middle; type of living shoreline. Term What is a Mangrove Swamp? Definition wetland ecosystem composed of mangrove plants and found along many tropical coastlines; type of living shoreline. Term What is a salt-marsh? Definition Wetland ecosystem composed of halophytic (salt-tolerant) plants and found along many mid-latitude coastlines; type of living coastline. Term Define shoreline. Definition dynamic systems involving the energy of waves and currents. Term What is a beach? Definition a shore built of unconsolidated sediment. Term What is a headland? Definition resistant rock coastline