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Chapter 9 The 17th Century
1600s AD
42
Art History
Undergraduate 1
12/08/2008

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Term
Balagny
Definition
cloak-convertible cape to cloak (France)
Term
Basque
Definition
-waistline of guardinfante
Term
Biggin
Definition
cap for children
Term
Breeches
Definition
made with seams on outside and inside of each leg, hung from waist, had varying degrees of fullness
Term
Canons
Definition
full wide ruffles attached at the bottom of breeches
Term
Copotain
Definition
high crowned small brimmed hats were associated with supporters of Puritan faction
Term
Carrying frock
Definition
infants unable to walk were dressed in long gowns
Term
Cassock, casaque
Definition
coats cut with wide full sleeves that were wide throughout the body and ended at thigh height or below
Term
Commode
Definition
fontage, a device made of a series of ruffles held in place with wire supports place on top of women’s hair
Term
Cravat
Definition
long narrow scarf like pieces separate from the shirt were worn instead of collars
Term
Diapers
Definition
English called clouts or nappies, linen cloth made in a checked pattern and made from unbleached linen or cotton
Term
Draw loom
Definition
loom that elaborately figured silk fabrics had to be produced on; required small boy to sit on top and manually raise and lower sets of yarns in order to create a pattern
Term
Falling bands
Definition
flat collar on shirt that replaced the ruff
Term
Fontage
Definition
commode, a device made of a series of ruffles held in place with wire supports place on top of women’s hair
Term
Galosh
Definition
flat soled overshoe with a toe cap for keeping it in place; during Louis XIV
Term
Going frock
Definition
children old enough to walk wore these shorter dresses
Term
Guardinfante
Definition
similar to French farthingale, skirt was more oval than FF with greater width from side to side, bodice had basque
Term
Jack boots
Definition
high rigid bots made of heavy leather worn for horseback riding in the latter 1600s
Term
Justacorps-surtout
Definition
knee length coats that replaced doublets as outer garments, fitted straight sleeves with turned back cuffs and buttoned down the front, completely covered the breeches and waistcoat
Term
Latchets
Definition
shoes with large open sides and extensions that tied across the instep
Term
Love lock
Definition
French and English men of fashion grew one lock of hair longer than the rest
Term
Mantilla
Definition
Spanish veil worn to cover the hair that has come to be associated with traditional Spanish costume, is a smaller version of the mantle
Term
Manua, manteau
Definition
construction for women’s dresses with bodice and skirt cut in one length from shoulder to hem; full in both back and front worn over a corset and an underskirt
Term
Modeste
Definition
what French called the outer layer of skirts
Term
Muckinder
Definition
hankerchief that was pinned to the front of the dress for extra protection for children
Term
Nappies
Definition
English called them tail clouts, Americans-diapers, linen cloth made in a checked pattern and
made from unbleached linen or cotton
Term
Pantofles
Definition
heel-less slippers or mules that became more popular, derives from Greek word for cork
Term
Petticoat breeches-rhinegraves
Definition
divided skirt like a modern culotte, cut so full that it gave the appearance of a short skirt
Term
Pinafore
Definition
derived from the practice of pinning this garment to the front or forepart of the going frock
Term
Plumpers
Definition
small balls of wax placed in women’s cheeks to give the face a fashionably round shape
Term
Pomander balls
Definition
ball made of perfumes worn or carried in a vase as protection against infection or to modify bad smalls, hung from neck chain or attached to a girdle 17th cent middle ages; gold or silver
Term
Ribbons of childhood
Definition
flat ribbons attached to help child learn to walk and control their movements
Term
Secret
Definition
what French called the under layer of skirts
Term
Slap soles
Definition
a flat sole attached only at the front not at the heel, slapped the ground, intended to keep heel from sinking into soft ground
Term
Stomacher
Definition
separate stomachers could be tied or pinned o the front of the corset to vary the appearance of a dress
Term
Straight solez
Definition
straights-shoes and boots that had high heels without shaping for left or right feet
Term
Surtout
Definition
knee length coats that replaced doublets as outer garments, fitted straight sleeves with turned back cuffs and buttoned down the front, completely covered the breeches and waistcoat
Term
Tricorne
Definition
flat hats with turned or cocked up at one or more points were often seen with the brim turned up at three points to form a triangle
Term
Vest
Definition
waistcoat of below the knee length worn over narrow breeches
Term
Virago sleeve
Definition
Virago sleeve-sleeves often very full on gowns and fashionable jackets, were puffed out and frequently paned
Term
Waistcoat
Definition
vest, below the knee length worn over narrow breeches
Term
Whisk
Definition
necks were edged by a wide lace collar or band of linen
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