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Textiles: Yarn Classification
Chapter 11 in Textiles by Sara J. Kadolph (11th edition)
53
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Undergraduate 3
10/17/2010

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Term
Average twist
Definition
the most commonly used amount of twist, in the range of 20 to 30 tpi for yarns
Term
Binder
Definition
the ply of a fancy yarn that holds the effect ply in place
Term
Braided yarn
Definition
made by braiding three or more fine yarns together to create one larger yarn
Term
Chenille yarn
Definition
a fringed yarn made by producting a leno fabric, cutting it into narrow strips, and blooming open the yarn fringes to create a fuzzy yarn
Term
Composite yarn
Definition
regular in appearance along its length; it is made with both staple- and filament-fiber components
Term
Cord
Definition
consists of two or more ply yarns held together by twist or some other means
Term
Core-spun yarn
Definition
made with a central sheath of fibers completely covered by other fibers spun around it
Term
Covered yarn
Definition
has a central ply that is completely wrapped by another ply
Term
Crepe yarn
Definition
refers to a yarn with crepe or very high twist
Term
Decitex (dtex)
Definition
used to identify yarn or fiber size and is equal to 10 tex
Term
Denier
Definition
describes yarn or fiber size and is defined as weight in grams for 9000 meters of fiber or yarn
Term
Effect ply
Definition
the ply of a fancy yarn that creates visual or tactile interest
Term
Embroidery thread
Definition
a yarn intended for stitching designs or patterns on the surface of a textile
Term
Fancy fabrics
Definition
a fabric that differs in appearance, pattern, or structure from plain fabrics
Term
Fancy yarn
Definition
describes a yarn with an irregular or unusual appearance as compared with simple basic yarns
Term
Fasciated yarn
Definition
a yarn made with a filament grouping of fibers wrapped with staple fibers
Term
Filament yarn
Definition
a yarn made from filament fibers; smooth or bulky types are possible
Term
Ground ply
Definition
the ply of a fancy yarn that forms the foundation for the effect ply
Term
Hairiness
Definition
describes excessive fiber ends on a yarn's surface that may create problems in fabrication or in consumer use because they are more sensitive to abrasion and pilling
Term
Hard twist
Definition
a high amount of yarn twist in the range of 30 to 40 tpi, which produces a harsher fabric hand
Term
Knit yarn
Definition
narrow fabric yarns made by knitting
Term
Knot, spot, nub, or knop yarn
Definition
a fancy yarn.  The effect ply is twisted many times around the ground ply in the same place.
Term
Loop, curl, or boucle yarn
Definition
a fancy yarn.  The effect ply forms closed loops at regular intervals along the length of the yarn
Term
Low-twist yarn
Definition
a very small amount of twist used in filament yarns that keeps fibers together in processing and fabrication
Term
Metallic yarn
Definition
a yarn made with at least one metal monofilament fiber
Term
Napping twist
Definition
a small amount of twist used to produce lofty spun yarns for fabrics that will be napped
Term
Neps
Definition
a small knot of entangled fibers.  The fibers may be immature or dead and create problems in dyeing
Term
Novelty yarn
Definition
another term for a fancy yarn
Term
Ply yarn
Definition
consists of two or more strands of fibers held together by twist or some other mechanism
Term
Ratine yarn
Definition
a fancy yarn.  The effect ply is twisted in a spiral arrangement around the ground ply, with an occasional longer loop
Term
Rope
Definition
a heavy thick cord at least 2.5 cm or one inch or more in diameter consisting of strands of fiber, leather, or wire that are twisted or braided together
Term
Sewing thread
Definition
a yarn specifically designed for stitching together fabrics or other materials
Term
Simple yarn
Definition
a yarn alike in all its parts
Term
Single yarn
Definition
consists of one strand of fibers held together by some mechanism
Term
Slub yarn
Definition
a single thick-and-thin fancy yarn
Term
Spike or snarl yarn
Definition
a fancy yarn in which the effect ply forms alternating open loops along both sides of the yarn
Term
Spiral or corkscrew yarn
Definition
a fancy yarn in which two plies that differ in size, texture, type, or color are twisted together
Term
Spun yarn
Definition
a continuous strand of staple fibers held together by some mechanism
Term
Stitched yarn
Definition
narrow ribbon-like fabrics with one or more rows of stitched thread forming the basic structure of the yarn
Term
S-twist
Definition
refers to a direction of yarn twist that conforms to the slope direction of the central portion of the letter S.
Term
Tex system
Definition
a direct yarn-numbering system.  the yarn size is the weight in grams of 1000 meters of yarn
Term
Textured-bulk yarn
Definition
another term for a textured-bulk-filament yarn; a yarn with notably greater apparent volume than a similar conventional yarn
Term
Textured-bulk-filament yarn
Definition
a uniformly bulky filament yarn in which the bulk is added by crimping or texturizing the filament fibers
Term
Turns per inch (tpi)
Definition
a measure of yarn twist
Term
Turns per meter (tpm)
Definition
a measure of yarn twist
Term
Tweed yarn
Definition
a general term for wool or wool-like fabrics made of flock or flake novelty yarns in plain, twill, or twill-variation weaves
Term
Twist
Definition
the spiral arrangement of fibers around the yarn axis
Term
Twist-on-twist
Definition
refers to using the same direction of twist in plying two yarns into one yarn as in the production of each individual ply
Term
Voile twist
Definition
(see hard twist) a high amount of yarn twist in the range of 30 to 40 tpi, which produces a harsher fabric hand
Term
Wrap-spun yarn
Definition
a yarn with a core of staple fibers wrapped with filament fibers
Term
Yarn
Definition
an assemblage of fibers twisted or laid together so as to form a continuous strand that can be made into a textile fabric
Term
Yarn number
Definition
describes the size of a yarn
Term
Z-twist
Definition
refers to a direction of yarn twist that conforms to the direction of the slope of the central portion of the letter Z
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