Takes calandaring one step further, putting it through a roller then adding:

starch: temp (washes out)

wax: temp

resin: pretty perm., now is known as chintz

-singeing over fabric to burn off protruding ends

-done with staple fibers

-claims to reduce pilling,makes appearance of combed fabirc

-destroys cohesiveness and reduces strength

-much cheaper than combed 

-Permanent 

• permanent
• uses staple fibers
• roller with little hooks that break the surface to bring more fibers up
• Purpose: create cheap pile effect for warmth, absorbancy, softness
• Claim: water & stain repellency (not true)
• weakens strength, not necessarily weaken if using high end fabrics/fibers

Permanent

• Pass sand paper over fabric to give a soft hand
• reduces strength by 60%
• Done on fine, silky fabrics (rayon)
• can be natural or manmad and microfibers

Perm.

• Removal of color to improve dyeing
• Done on natural fibers
• Damages celluloses and eats wool and silk
• Popular to use hydrogen peroxide
• Increases uniform dyeing but eventually can break down facbric 

Leads to Tendering (break down of fabric)

• perm.
• acis, abrasive wash, etc.
• Very damaging, breaks down fabric 

Similar to cotton sizing, done to imported silks

• adds stiffness and weight
• dipped in metallic salt mixture
• very abrasive, weakens fabric 

High-end Durable

• Dip with resin: add strength
• reduces comfort and breathability 

High end durable

• man made filament yarns
• lining fabric
• coated in resin (glues/fuses yarns together)
• not really absorbant anymore 

high end durable

• Knits
• Coat with resin to prevent snags

• Zepel/Brand-double knits/ribs
• provides antistatic, h20 resistance, resistance to oil stains

Perm.

• chem wash that has UV absorbers in it
• used esp for interior design for outdoor furniture and window treatments
• blocks UV rays 

• surface chem finish that causes wicking process to occur
• up comfort but not really up absorbancy

low-end durable

• chem finish that attracts moisture from atmosphere and body
• spreads moisture out on the= reduces static 

Varies Durability

•  Totally sealed against moisture
• No breathability-bad comfort
• Coats fabric with lacre or rubber (wet suit) or heavy resin or linseed oil (oil cloth)
• Microporous/Poromeric cloth: like skin: h20 cant penetrate, breathable. fabric is between reg. fabric (tightly woven nylon)-Gortex

Durable up to 50 washes

• Not flame proof, helps resist flames
• ignites in source, but when removed, puts itself out
• wool, monocrylics are naturally flame resistant
• on mattress pads, costumes, kid pjs
• can have bad side effects (carconogenics-tris), infertility, soap scum leaves flammable curds 

Crease/Wrinkle Resistant or

Durable/Permanent Press

Cotton and Rayon

• Impregnates teh fiber cross links and reinforces it
• Comfort down, not very washable, color changes with bleach
• oil stains dont really come out
• static cling=prob
• odors may affect health
• not wrinkle-proof, just resistant 

Ex: sanforizing- has guarantees that the garment will not shrink more than 1%

• For perm. press
• Helpsi n wash, brings soils up to surface so h20 can lift the soil out

• chem finish or resin
• coats fabric so stains dont spread and absorb-quickly easily picked up/wiped up

moths love protein and wool

chem finish 

chem finish

natural resistors are the celluloses like rayon and linen

also rayon resists 

Insect repellant

can  be harmful 

• On thermoplastics (manmade) to help maintain shape in everyday heat
• Flash heated to melt and cool right away-sets heat resistance in fabric
• Stabilizing
• Done on finished product othwerwise ironed creases wouldn't work

• Chem process where COTTON is treated with sodium hydroxide


• Reduces shrinkage
• Adds Luster and softness
• Increases absorbtion of dye

• Pulled under tension, wet and then dried
• Mechanical stranthening process
• Holes in selvage (where was hooked on machine)
• Puts fabrics ON GRAIN

Cut outs sown on another fabric

Ex: Trapunto-stuffed to give dimension 

• Done on blends of high quality that are well blended (true blend)
• Chem burn/paste eats 1 fiber away to create the sheer effect
• The two fibers are to be chem diff.
• Time consuming, meticulous, has to be done on high quality

• Pressing design into fabric, heat stamps in like a waffle press
• If done on man-made, design can be heat set in
• In natural, embosses comes out if not set in, but if coated in resin then its highly durable 

• Gluing fibers on fabric (like color in felt crafts)

• Creates insulation and increases warmth 

• Lightly washed in metal (usuallly aluminum)
• Ex: Milium
  • Relefects heat
  • Keeps heat in house
  • keeps 90% of heat from penetrating

Perm

Fabric is pleated by heated rolls

• Majority Used Colorant
• Insoluable on/in fabrics, bonds to the fabric
• Natural (long lasting: indigo, beet, insects, coffee, etc. )
• Synthetic : chemically made

• LIke paint that sits on fabric, held by binding agent
• Can result in cracks 

Prefiber

• Earliest stage possible to dye-put in before the fiber is made
• Used on man-made only-dye us put into plastic solution
• Excellent color fastness
• Can't respond to fashion color changes
• Used on atheletic wear and interior design 

• Dye fibers/man made before spun into yarn
• Usually used on natural fibers
• Silk, linen
• Yarns end up with diff. colored fibers
• heather effect

Done in yarn stage

• Still pretty good penetration and risk $
• still high quality
• Plaids, patterns, stripes
• Each yarn is a solid color
• higher risk for trends 

Under the Yarn dyeing category

• Yarns are dyed diff. colors along the strand.
• colors are distinctly diff. 

Yarn Dyeing

• Subtle monochromatic coloring along yarn
• Shading...dark lighter lighter lighter light  then back to dark, etc. 

Whole woven/knitted fabric is dyed

• Able to follow trends
• Done at a much lower cost with lower quality dyes
• Done in solid colors at a cheaper price 

• 2 fibers of blends (ex: poly/cotton) are absorbing dye exactly the same
• Produces a solid color

• 2 fibers of blends that are chemically different on purpose
• they absorb the dye in diff. degrees
• creates a 2 toned shaded effect
• Piece dyeing

• cheapest, quickest, fades the fastest
• not as popular as piece dyeing
• Entire product is dipped (esp. used in fashion)
• Giveaway: tag is dyed same color as the product
• Layered areas have poor penetration

• Like stamping an ink pad
• Small, geometric, repeating prints
• slow, expensive process

• Cut out, lay on fabric and paint inside lines
• expensive, can be duplicated by other processes
• uses with simple patterns 

• Something is put on fabric that resists dye
• wax, chem.
• labor intensive, exspensive, can involve hand process

• Batik (wax resist)
• Tye-Die (fabric tie with rope)
• Ikat (yarn twist, dyed, woven)

• Start by dying with a deep solid color and put bleach on that takes some color off and out of the orig. color (like black has blue in it)
• Creates a shaded look
• great risk of fabric damage

Most Popular Tech.

• Can tell by looking on back where color penetration is lighter
• 1 roller for each color
• sharp distnct edge where each color ends and a new starts

• More elaborate way to stencil
• Color is pushed through a screen, with diff. pressure=diff. result.
• How to tell: Where a color ends melts/bleeds into other color (no definite separation)
• Can imitate other tech.
• cheap. quick response
• Very common

• Printed only on warp yarns
• Hard to do
• Creates a hazy, Monet look
• exspensive, slow response 

• Iron on design using paper and heat to transfer
• Used for specilaty items with quick changing themes like kid movie characters
• Only wastes paper to change design, quick response
• inexpensive
• no transfer to back