Yarns composed of a single filament fiber or a multi filament fibers. They may or may not have twist.

SD. Made of fillament fibers so the yarns are smooth and more lustruous than spun yarns.

Yarns consist of at least two strands, one forming the core and the other forming the cover or wrap.

SD. Are even in diameter. Relatively smooth, and available in a variety of diameters. Often, the core is elastomeric.

Are those that differ significantly from the normal appearance of single or plied yarnsdue to the presence of deliberate irregularities.

SD. Yarns can have very random arrangements and commonly have uneven diameters.

-Fibers somewhat aligned

-Fuzzier

-Less lustruous

-Better heat retention

-More resilient

-Uneven diameters

-Coarser

-Common in low-count fabrics.

-Fiber more aligned

-Longer fiber

-Stronger

-More dimensionally stable

-Less pilling

-Smoother, more lustruous.

-Core surrounded by a yarn cover

-Core can be hard fiber or elastomeric fiber

-Single or double covering that is easily separated from core.

-Any fabric with spandex in it.

-Core surrounded by fiber

-filament corecore/staple-fiber wrap yarns

-Staple-fiber core/filament wrap yarns

-Staple- fiber core/ Staple- fiber wrap yarns.

-Harder to identify

Ratine Yarn

Core Strand? Yes

Binder Strand? No

3- Strand Fancy Yarn

Spiral or Corkscrew

Core strand? Yes

Binder strand? Yes

3- Strand Fancy Yarn

CHENILLE YARN

Core strand? Yes

Binder strand? No

SLUB YARN

Express yarn number in length per unit mass, or as reciprocal of linear density.

Coarse Yarns- lower count

Finer Yarns- higher counts

S TWIST

(clockwise)

Woolen and worsted yarns are S-twist.

Z TWIST

(anti-clockwise)

Most cotton and flax spun yarns are Z-twist

MAJOR STRUCTURES

-Two or more sets of yarns are interlaced at right angles to each other. The manner in which the yarns are interlaced determines the weave. Specific fabric names are based primarily on weave, yarn type and construction, finish, an other structural variables.

-Not much stretch

-Less space (voids)

-Less drapeable

MAJOR STRUCTURES

-Composed of intermeshing loops.

-Classifying depends on whether the yarn in the fabric traverses crosswise or lengthwise.

-Names of fabrics within classifications are determined by how the loops intermesh (the types of stitches) and the sequencing of the stitches.

-Stretch

-Doesn't fray

-More voids

MAJOR STRUCTURES

-Entanglement, layering, or bonding.

-Fabrics that go straight to fabric.

MAJOR STRUCTURES

-Stitching, fusing, and adhesive bonding.

BASIC WEAVES

-Interlace pattern of 1/1

-Front/back look the same

-Usually flat

-Basic fabrics that are ideal for finishing and printing

PLAIN WEAVE

BASIC WEAVES

-Interlacings shift by one to form diagonal lign across surface.

-Right handed- runs lower left to upper right.

-Left handed- runs lower right to upper left.

TWILL WEAVE

Two variations of plain weave

-Full and half basket.

-Warp and filling rib.

BASIC WEAVES

-One set of yarns passes over four or more yarns to produce floats.

SATIN WEAVE

BALANCE FABRIC

WEAVE TYPES

- Random floats create "pebbled" effect

- No recognizable pattern

- Good body and hides wrinkles

-Sometimes made with crepe yarns

CREPE WEAVE

WEAVE TYPES

- Small, repeating, geometric design

-Mostly solid colored fabrics

DOBBY WEAVE

WEAVE TYPES

-Detailed, large- scale designs

- Combines various weave patterns throughout fabric

-Expensive

JACQUARD WEAVE

WEAVE TYPES

-Raised and recessed areas due to use of stuffer yarns

-Stuffer yarns visible on back

- Resembles a quilt

PIQUE WEAVE

WEAVE TYPES

-Design is created with new yarns not part of the base structure

-Small, geometric

- Usually on plain weave fabric

-AKA extra- yarn weave

SURFACE FIGURE WEAVE

WEAVE TYPES

- 3-D plush effect made by weaving in extra set of yarns to create pile

- Thick, plush effect

- Looped surface or cut

PILE WEAVE