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Structural Design Fabrics
Fancy Weaves
26
Other
Undergraduate 3
11/21/2011

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Term
How are structural design fabrics created?
Definition
The design is produced at the same time that you produce the fabric
Term
Structural designs are temporary/permanent?
Definition
Permanent
Term
What are some examples of structural design or fancy weave fabrics?
Definition
Dotted Swiss

(Flocked dotted swiss is APPLIED, not structural)
Term
What are dobby weaves?
Definition
known for and used to create small, over-all patterns
Term
What are some examples of dobby weave fabrics?
Definition
White on white
Waffle Cloth
Drapery Fabric
Term
Extra Filling Yarn Weaves
Definition
Yarns of different colors or sizes are incorporated into the fabric at the design point only.
Term
What are some examples of Extra Filling Yarn Weaves?
Definition
Dotted Swiss (Extra Filling Yarns)
Stripe Shirting (Extra Warp Yarns)
Eyelash Fabric (Extra Warp Yarns)

(warp yarns run parallel to selvege)
Term
Pique Weaves
Definition
Comes from the French word meaning, quilted

Produces a fabric with ridges that are called "wales" or "cords" (held up by floats at the back of the fabric)
Term
What are some examples of Pique Weaves?
Definition
Pinwale Pique (chord/stripe effect)
Birdseye Pique (floats on back)

Stuffer yarns
Term
Jacquard Weaves
Definition
Large figured designs woven on jacquard looms
Term
What are some examples of Jacquard Weaves?
Definition
Damask (reversible and flat, has satin floats on a satin background)

Brocade (has floats in the design that are more varied in length and are often very different colors)

Tapestry (More complicated; 2 or more sets of warp yarns and 2 or more sets of filling yarns; intelaced so that the face warp is never woven into the back and the back filling does not show on the surface)
Term
Leno Weaves
Definition
Open effect; laced like weaves

mosquito netting, bags for laundry, bags fro fruits and vegetables

Strong

Warp yarns are crisscrossed
Term
What are some examples of Leno Weaves?
Definition
Drapery Casement and Marquisette
Term
Momie Weaves
Definition
is a class of weaves with no wale or other distinct weave effect, resulting from an irregular interlacing pattern
Term
What are some examples of momie weaves?
Definition
wool crepe
polyester crepe
contract upholstery crepe
Term
Double Weave
Definition
is a fabric made by weaving two fabrics with four setso fyarns (2 sets of warp and 2 sets of filling yarns) on the same loom. The 2 fabrics are connected by periodically reversing the positions of the two fabrics from top to bottom. Double weave is also known as pocket cloth or pocket weave.
Term
What are some examples of Double Cloth?
Definition
Pocket cloth (2 warp and 2 filling)
Matelasse (2 warp 2 filling; extra yarns that hold it together at the point of the design; loks a bit quilty)
Term
Pile Fabrics
Definition
3D fabrics
Extra yarns that form a dense cover of ground fabric
Can have extra set of filling yarns or warp yarns into the ground fabrics to make loops

high pile
adds warmth
used in the lining of coats and jackets
have to keep extra clean and pressed to keep th epile erect

Have to be careful-most pile fabrics have an up and down ( make sure you get 2 pattern pieces in the same direction or else they look like a completely different color)
Term
What are some examples of a Pile Fabric?
Definition
Corduroy
Velveteen

(both have an extra set of filling yarns; prominent warp yarn wales; break vertically; caterpillar in the warp direction; filling direction falls off easily)

(Cut and brushed an pressed to have a pile of a certain angle)

Made from staple or SPUN yarns.
Term
Warp Pile Example
Definition
Velvet

Has more formal look than velveteen

if you want to press velvet you want to put it upside down on a needle board and press it (with an iron)

Made from filament yarns

Most fabrics are on a "volt"
Term
Most fabrics are put on a "volt": which fabric is not put on one?
Definition
Velvet

because you don't want it to have extra weight or stress put on it
Term
What are examples of warp pile fabrics?
Definition
Velvet
Terry Cloth
Seersucker
Term
Double cloth method w/ warp pile
Definition
weave 2 velvet cloths at the same time and connect with warp yarns
Term
Fabrics break Horizontally/Vertically in a warp pile fabric
Definition
Horizontally

(filling Caterpillar)
Term
Terry Cloth
Definition
Made by slack tension method

meaning some yarns are under tension and some are slack (the slack yarns make the loops for the terry cloth)

Has extra set of warp yarns

Has loops and cut pile (loops are more absorbent than cut pile)
Term
Seersucker
Definition
Made by slack tension weave

stripe will always be in the warp direction

Shirts/ summer men clothes

Permanent pucker because of slack tension weaving (if you tried to iron it out you would have difficult time trying to get crinkles out of it)

Structural weave
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