1. Solvent Soluble - oils, grease, waxes -use dryside stain removal (VDS, OTPR, Amyl Acetate)

2. Water Soluble - sugar, salt, perspiration, food, and beverages - use wetside stain removal

3. Insoluble stains - carbon, dust, sand - requires mechanical action

4. Stains removed by chemical agents - glues, paints, rust, albumin, nail polish - need special agents to remove, hardest stain removal process

Rust Remover (1)

Acetic Acid (3)

Tannin Formula (3-6)

Neutral Synthetic Detergent (7)

Protein Formula (8-10)

Ammonia (13)

Dryside - volatile dry solvent, oily type paint remover, amyl acetate

wetside - tannin - neutral synthetic detergent, 28% acetic acid or tannin formula, general formula, rust remover

wetside - protein - ammonia 26 or protein formula, digester

Uses:

1. Use VDS before applying other dryside agents

2. Use for feathering

3. Removes oil, paint, grease, wax, cosmetics, dry inks, or any stain

4. Flush OTPR

Precautions:

1. Do not mix with alcohol.  Will damage acetate

2. Test all fabrics for colorfastness before using VDS

Uses:

1. Breaks up and suspends insoluble particles so they can be flushed with VDS

2. Removes oil, paint, grease, cosmetics, plastics, dry inks, and ground in soils

Precautions:

1. Always use VDS before applying OTPR

2. Test for colorfastness, especially on prints

3. Always flush OTPR with VDS.  NEVER USE STEAM.

4. Do not leave on fabric - causes color loss

Uses:

1. Removes plastic based stains - nail polish, melted buttons and beads, lacquer, varnish, and plastic adhesives

2. Aids in removing grass stains

Precautions:

1. Volatile - avoid prolonged exposure

2. Flammable

3. Always test for colorfastness

4. Purchase from your sypplier as amyl acetate, CP.  Never purchase commercial grade.

Uses:

1. Lubricant on wetside

2. Aids in removal of water soluble stains

3. Mix with water when using

Precautions:

1. Wet fabric with steam or water before applying

2. Flush thoroughly with steam to prevent rings

3. Test for colorfastness

Uses:

1. Removes plant based stains - coffee, tea, grass, mustard, tomato sauce, fruit juices

2. Neutralizes or reverses alkali color changes

3. Acetic acid 28% can be used with sodium bisulfite as an antichlor to neutralize chlorine bleach

4. Acetic acid 28% can be used to accelerate some bleaches when testing for colorfastness

Precautions:

1. Acetic acid above 33% will dissolve acetate fibers or at 28% if heated

2. Flush with water or steam

3. Test for colorfastness

4. Acid agents left of acetate fabrics can cause a color change, usually a reddish hue.

Uses - stubborn plant-based stains

Precautions:

1.  Too aggressive on some dyes - test first

2. Too aggressive on rayon, silk, and acetate - test first

3. Heat will accelerate - therefore caution with steam

4. Flamable

5. Flush thoroughly

Uses:

1. Iron, rust, metalic stain

2. Plant based stains, inlcuding sugar stains such as coffee, tea, grass, mustard, tomato sauce, fruit juices

3. Water soluble ink

Precautions:

1. Test for colorfastness

2. Avoid skin contact

3. Wear gloves

4. Protect the surface of board with towel

5. Apply and flush over a towel

6. Flush thoroughly with water or steam and use neutralizer if applicable

7. If left on fabric may cause color or fabric damage

8. DO NOT USE rust remover with hydrofluoric acid on weighted silk, glass fabric, or fabrics with metallic fibers

9. Rust removers containing oxalic acid are SAFE on weighted silk and metalic fibers

10.  Keep in original containers

Uses:

1. Removes animal-based stains (protein stains), including perspiration, blood, egg cream, etc.

2. Removes both wet inks and dry inks

3. Removes cosmetics and ground-in stains

4. Neutralizes or reverses acid color changes

Precautions:

1. Test for colorfastness

2. May cause color changes on silk and wool

3. May cause yellowing of optical brighteners

4. Flush with water or steam after use

Uses:

1. Removes protein stains (milk, egg, blood and body fluids), especially old stains

2. Especially useful on fabrics that are alkali sensitive (wool, silk)

Precautions:

1. Test for colorfastness

2. Short shelf life

3. 4 Ws

Without acid or alkali (flush completely)

Wet

Warm (powdered from 100-110 F). Under 90 and over 145 no activity. 

Wait - 15 minutes or longer

Uses:

1. More effective than amyl acetate for removing plastic-type stains

Precautions:

1. DISSOLVES acetate, triacetate and modacrylic fibers

2. Very aggressive on some dyes; always test before using

3. Volatile - do not inhale

Uses:

1. Works on shellac and liquid shoe polish

2. Helps to remove dye stains

Precautions:

1. Very aggressive on some dyes.  Test.

2. Do not flush with VDS; flush with water or steam.

3. Will damage acetate fibers when heated.

1. Run along yarns with longer twist.  Sometimes in form of a cross.

2. Deepen or darken colors.

3. Vegetable oils oxidize, change color, and are hard to remove.

4. Intense color = high degree of oxidation

1. VDS, tamp, and VDS flush

2. VDS plus OTPR, tamp

3. VDS flush

4. Repeat VDS plus OTPR until stain gone

5. Flush with VDS

6. Dry

Will not respond well if the oil has oxidized.

generally stiff, shiny.  May or may not penetrate area.

Nail polish, lacquer, plastic based adhesives, household cement

1. work from the reverse side

2. VDS + OTPR 

3. Add amyl acetate a few drops at a time. Check for bleeding into a towel.  Keep applying amyl acetate as long as bleeding continues.

4. Apply acetone when bleeding stops.  Test acetone first for fiber content.

5. When stain spreads on fabric flush with volatile dry solvent.

6. After flushing, apply VDS and OTPR.

7. Continue application of amyl acetate or acetone, a few drops at a time.

8. When the stain area is clear, flush thoroughly, remove towel, and dry.

Sources: coffee, tea, fruit juices, soda, beer, wine, soy sauce, hard liquor

Identification:

1. light brown and dark brown

2. can be invisible when fresh but becomes brown in contact with heat, as in drying or pressing

3. fabric absorbs stain - not stiff 

1. put towel under, put on vacuum, and flush with steam or water

2. NSD, tamp, flush

3. acetic acid, tamp, flush

4. if stain remains, nds, general formula, tamp, flush

5. nds, rust remover.  protect board with towel.  rust remover remains 5-8 seconds.  flush thoroughly.  temporary color change can be corrected by thorough flushing.

6. if stain remains, use oxidizing bleach such as sodium perborate, 3% hydrogen peroxide, or chlorine.  Test fabric for colorfastness first.  

7.  Flush thoroughly and dry completely.

neutral synthetic detergent

tannin formula or acetic acid 28%

general formula

rust remover

bleach (oxidizing)

Dry side agents

VDS

Amyl Acetate

Wetside Agents

NSD

Tannin formula or acetic acid 28%

general formula

rust remover

bleach (oxidizing)

1. brush with clean dry brush to remove dirt

2. VDS + Amyl acetate, tamp, flush with VDS

3. Use tannin removal procedure

1. brush stain with clean brush

2. vds, tamp, flush with vds

3. remove with tannin procedure

sources - milk, cheese, blood, ice cream, urine, eggs, saliva, yogurt, feces, vomit, perspiration, gravy, glues, cottage cheese

identification - built up and stiff and may have whitish appearance when scratched.

blood stain can be identified by applying 3% hydrogen peroxide - will fizz - test for colorfastness first

Neutral synthetic detergent

Protein formula or ammonia

Digester

1. Towel under stained area, put on vacuum, and flush

2. Apply nsd, tamp, flush

3. apply protein formula or ammonia, tamp, flush

4. If stain remains, digester

1. Heat clean towel with steam, place under stained area, wet stained area with steam.

2. apply digester

3. put steamed towel on top 

4. set aside for 10 minutes

5. reapply digester and reheat top towel

6. allow to work 20 minutes or longer, depending on stain

7. flush thoroughly with steam

Use wetside agents - both tannin and protein

NSD

tannin formula or acetic acid 28%

general formula 

rust remover

protein formula or ammonia

bleach (reducing)

1. flush over vacuum with steam or water

2. nsd, tamp, flush

3. acetic acid, tamp, flush

4. nsd, general formula, tamp, flush

5. nsd, apply several drops of rust remover.  protect board, let stand 5-8 seconds.  flush with steam.

6. protein formula or ammonia, tamp, flush

7. if stain remains, use reducing bleach - sodium bisulfite, sodium hydrosulfite, or titanium stripper.  test for colorfastness.

8.  flush completely and dry.

solvent soluble oil or wax with a water soluble pigment or dye

ballpoint pen, foundation, mascara, eye shadow, blush, eye liner, crayon, lipstick, oil paint, latex paint.

cosmetics generally appear as a smear on the surface

Both dry and wet side agents

VDS

OTPR

neutral synthetic detergent

NSD

Protein formula or ammonia

28% acetic acid or tannin formula

rust remover

general formula

oxidizing bleach

1. VDS, OTPR, blot with towel, repeat.  Frequently shift the towel underneath.

2. if stain spreads, flush with VDS

3. reapply OTPR and blot.  work on dry side until bleeding stops.

4. when bleeding stops, flush thoroughly with VDS

5. now work on wet side.  flush with steam or water

6. apply NDS, tamp, and flush with water or steam

7. apply protein formula or ammonia, tamp, and flush with steam or water

8. apply 28% acetic acid or tannin formula, tamp, flush with steam or water

9. apply nsd and general formula, tamp, flush

10. apply nsd, rust remover (protect board, 5-8 seconds), flush thoroughly

11. if stain remains, use reducing bleach (sodium bisulfite, sodium hydrosulfite, or titanium sulfite)

1. VDS, tamp, flush

2. Amyl acetate, tamp, flush with VDS

3. If no movement, flush with water or steam

4. apply NSD, tamp, flush with water or steam

5. Continue with a tannin approach, with tannin formula or 28% acetic acid, then general formula, then rust remover

6. If stain remains, protein formula or ammonia 26, tamp, flush with steam or water

7. If stain remains, bleach as appropriate

1. feathering

2. leveling agent

3. dipping in water and allow to air dry

1. apply steam or water, starting 4" above in center of ring and working outward in concentric circles.  Raise gun up to 9 inches as going outward.

2. put on end of board and dry from outside in

1. flush area with water and dry partially

2. lightly mist area with leveling agent

3. dry garment in well ventilated area and dryclean.  must be dry before drycleaning

works best on small rings

Caused by VDS, OTPR, or amyl acetate

1. reclean, or

2. feather with VDS (if it is a small, light ring)

1. saturate cheesecloth with VDS.  wring out excess. put area with ring over a towel

2. brush from center to outside of ring in straight lines

3. remove towel. put over the nose of board and dry from outside to center

Oxidizing - make stains colorless by adding oxygen.  EFFECTIVE ON ORGANIC STAINS - PERSPIRATION, URINE, BEVERAGES

Reducing bleaches - make stains colorless by adding oxygen.  Most effective in removing dye stains.

Oxidizing bleaches:

sodium perborate

hydrogen peroxide

sodium hypochlorite

Reducing bleaches:

sodium bisulfite

sodium hydrosulfite

titanium stripper

1. Always the last procedure performed

2. Always test for colorfastness

3. Never accelerate bleach except in testing

4. When spot bleaching, always work over a towel

5. Do not let bleaches contact metals

6. Wet fabric before spot bleaching or a bleach bath

Usage - good for perspiration and beverage stains.

Precautions

1. Safe on most fibers but not all colors

2. Can turn silk or wool with fluorescent brighteners yellow

3. Test on sample of every color.

4. To test, put sample on towel, NSD + bleach powder and fog with steam pedal.

5. Flush fabric thoroughly with steam after usage.

Used to heat

1. Depress pedal slightly

2. Only a small amount of steam should escape

3. Can be held 1/4 inch away without damage 

1. use in 3% concentration

2. Safe on all fibers at this concentration, but not all colors

3. Does not affect fluorescent brighteners used in silk and wool

4. Ammonia 26 speeds up action

5. Test with ammonium 26 to accelerate

Works on mild scorch, perspiration, blood, urine, beverage stains

Test: apply to sample and use ammonia 26 to accelerate

Usage: Apply and reapply every 20 minutes until stain removed or 3 hours have passed.

AKA Chlorine

Precautions - use only in 1% concentrations

Test for colorfastness.  Accelerate test with heat (steam)

Must follow usage with antichlor such as sodium bisulfite or sodium hydrosulfite

Okay with:

Okay: Cotton, rayon, linen, and many synthetics

Problems: Nylon (yellows), spandex (breaks down), protein fibers (wool and silk)

Mix one teaspoon powder and four ounces water.  Make fresh every day.

Accelerate with 28% acetic acid when testing

Make use = antichlor for chlorine

Also reduces berry and iodine stains

One teaspoon powder with four ounces of water.  Make daily.

Safe on all fibers, except metalics (turns black).

Not safe on all colors.  Test colorfastness with 28% acetic acid to accelerate.  Do not accelerate when using on fabric, only when testing.

Primary use - dye stains.  Also makes whites whiter.

Rinse fabric thoroughly.

Safe on all fibers but not all colors.

Test colorfastness.  Use heat (fogging) to accelerate in testing but not actual use.

Main use: Dye stains.  Does not make white whiter.

Flush several times.

Do not use with alkali, such as ammonia 26.  Will make black.  Can reverse this with acetic acid or rust removers.

If used with sodium bisulfite or sodium hydrosulfite, will turn fabric yellow.

9 grams of potassium hydroxide and 1 quart of n-Butyl Alcohol (Normal Butyl Alcohol)

Can also be purchased premade

1. DO NOT USE ON Silk and Wool - will turn yellow

2. flush and dry area first

3. always test for COLOR FASTNESS

4.  Store in dark, well-marked container

1. apply with eye dropper to stained area and let soak for 3-5 minutes

2. rinse solution well with distilled solvent

3. dry completely and dry clean

4. if yellow stains appear after dry cleaning, apply 28% acetic acid or tannin formula, then a thorough flushing with steam or water.

ORGANIC STAINS, INCLUDING...

Food

Mustard

Ketchup

Juices

Wines

Coffee

Tea

Soft Drinks

Perspiration

Blood

Sodium Perborate

Hydrogen Peroxide

Sodium Hypochlorite (Chlorine)

(used to remove dyes)

Sodium bisulfite

sodium hydrosulfite

titanium stripper

1. test for colorfastness on unseen area.  best to clip sample from seem allowance.  test all colors that will be bleached.

2. work over a towel to control spread of bleach

3. always wet area before applying bleach

4. accelerate bleaching action when testing

5. do not tamp

6. use an eyedropper or spotting bottle

7.  BLEACH IS A LAST RESORT.  USED TO REMOVE LAST TRACES OF STAIN.

1. identify stain type

2. identify fiber type - may limit bleaches that can be used safely

3. test for colorfastness - test all colors affected

if the bleach is safe for color and fiber type, you may proceed and bleach out stain

last traces of perspiration and beverage stains.

TURNS SILK AND WOOL YELLOW!

Sodium perborate

1. testing procedure

2. bleaching procedure

1. Testing procedure - with towel under

-steam unexposed area or sample cut

-apply some powder bleach

-put water or detergent on bleach powder

-gently depress steam petal and put gun next to bleach.  

-heat accelerates the bleach.

-thoroughly flush with steam

IF NO COLOR LOSS OR CHANGE, BLEACH IS SAFE

2. Spotting procedure

-steam stained area

-apply some powder bleach

-put water or detergent on bleach powder

-gently depress steam petal and put gun next to bleach.  

-heat accelerates the bleach.

-LET BLEACH SIT UNTIL STAIN REMOVED

-thorough flushing and dry.

1. mix 1 oz. sodium perborate and 4 oz. water

2. wet stained area with steam and apply bleached mixture

3. let sit and follow with through flushing

4. make new solution every day

use 3% concentration. 

available in drugstores at this concentration

can be purchased in stronger concentrations from your supplier.  you will need to dilute.

hydrogen peroxide

1. testing procedure

2. stain removal procedure 

1. testing procedure - on towel

-wet area or sample with steam or water

-apply few drops of hydrogen peroxide

-a few drops of ammonia or protein formula to accelerate

-flush thoroughly with steam and dry

COMPARE WITH ORIGINAL COLOR TO SEE IF COLOR LOSS OR CHANGE

2. spotting procedure

-wet area with steam

-apply peroxide.  may need to set aside for 10-15 minutes

- if working, reapply

-after using, follow with a thorough flushing and dry

sold in 5% concentration

mix with 1 part to 4 parts water

1. NOT safe of wool, silk, nylon, spandex

2. always test for color fastness

3. must dilute - sold in grocery stores at 5%, but dilute 4/1 with water to chlorine bleach

4. test for color fastness ALWAYS and use a sample cut.

mildew

beverage and food stains

red, green, blue dye stains

VERY IMPORTANT TO TEST FOR COLOR FASTNESS

Sodium Hypochlorite (Chlorine)

1. testing procedure

2. spotting procedure

1. testing procedure - ON CUT IF POSSIBLE

-wet area with steam or water

-apply few drops of chlorine bleach (diluted 4/1)

-fog to heat

-flush thoroughly with steam or water

-dry thoroughly

IF THERE IS NO COLOR LOSS OR CHANGE, SAFE TO USE.

2. Spotting procedure - removes last traces of stain

-apply steam to area

-apply bleach in eye dropper

-allow to sit.  when stain gone, flush with steam

- follow use with premade antichlor to remove.  use...

+steam

+sodium bisulfite together with either tannin formula or acetic acid.

+flush and dry

water soluble powder

used to remove dye stains and last traces of berry stains (also wine)

also used as an antichlor to remove chlorine bleach

generally safe on all fabrics and colors 

still, always test

mix 1 tsp. sodium bisulfite powder with 4 oz. water

MAKE A NEW SOLUTION EVERY DAY

1. testing procedure

-wet area or sample with steam or water

-apply a few drops of bleach solution

-apply few drops of 28% acetic acid or tannin formula to accelerate

-flush throroughly and dry

IF NO COLOR LOSS OR CHANGE, SAFE TO USE

2. spotting procedure

-wet area with water or steam

-apply bleach

-allow to remain long enough to remove stain.  reapply if necessary

-flush thoroughly and dry

safe on all fabrics except metallic.  will permenantly damage metallic fibers.  there is no restoration.

CAN DISCOLOR METAL BUTTONS OR HOOKS.

NOT SAFE ON ALL COLORS.  MUST TEST

CAN MAKE WHITES WHITER WHICH MAY NOT BE WHAT YOU WANT

in powder form.  mix 1 tsp. sodium hydrosulfite with 4 oz. water

TEST FOR COLORFASTNESS, EVEN SHADES OF WHITE

1. testing procedure

-steam or wet swatch or unseen area

-apply bleach solution in eyedropper

-apply few drops of 28% acetic acid or tannin formula to accelerate

-allow to remain on long enough to penetrate

-flush thoroughly from fabric and dry

IF NO COLOR LOSS OR CHANGE, SAFE TO USE

2. Spotting procedure

-wet area with steam

-apply bleach mixture.  DO NOT ACCELERATE!

-allow it to remain on stain long enough to be effective.  reapply if necessary

-thoroughly flush and dry

safe on all fibers but not all colors

area must be free of all agents

contact with an alkali will produce a dark stain.  can sometimes be reversed by applying rust remover and a thorough flushing.

1. testing procedure

- wet or steam area or cut piece

-apply a few drops of bleach mixture with an eye dropper

-apply few drops of tannin formula or acetic acid

-allow to remain on area for a while

-flush thoroughly with steam and dry

IF NO COLOR LOSS OR CHANGE BLEACH IS SAFE

2. stain removal procedure

-wet area or steam

-apply bleach mixture.  allow to remain long enough to remove stain

-reapply if necessary

-flush thoroughly with steam and dry

1. examine stain to see if organic (oxidizing) or dye stain (reducing)

2. eliminate bleaches that can't be used with certain fiber content

3. test for colorfastness

4. remove metal fasteners, pins, buttons

5. use plastic or stainless steel container

6. dissolve bleach thoroughly

1. use plastic or stainless steel container

2. dissolve bleach thoroughly

3. place in bleach bath and lay towels on top to submerge

4. check periodically to see if removed.  could take several hours

5. when bleaching complete, rinse thoroughly or wash in machine.

Correcting color changes from bleaches

1. if oxidizing

2. if reducing

1. if caused by oxidizing

-use sodium bisulfite - least aggressive reducing bleach

water - sodium bisulfite - nsd 

should change fast

thorough rinsing

2. if caused by reducing

-use sodium perborate

same process as above

spot clean if spot problem/use bath if all over

contains tumeric

1. brush excess

2. vds to remove oil, tamp, flush with vds

3. dry completely

4. tannin procedure (nsd, acetic or tannin formula, etc.)

contains chlorofil

1. work on side where stain is prominent

2. brush with clean, dry brush if excess grass or soil

3. flush with vds and apply AMYL ACETATE, tamp, flush, dry

4. follow steps for tannin stain

5. use oxidizing stain for last traces

fogging technique

1. heat stain with steam

2. nsd + protein formula or ammonia

3. lightly step on steam petal and bring close to stain

4. if it works, continue fogging until the stain is gone

5. flush and dry the fabric

A mineral oil barrier will prevent bleach from affecting colored area

1. apply mineral oil with an eyedropper to the edge of the white area next to the colored area

2. bleach stain in white area as normal.  mineral oil will prevent bleach from contacting the darker color.

3. mineral oil will be removed via dry cleaning

1. VDS - Color, no alcohol

2. OTPR - use w/VDS, Color

3. Amyl Acetate - Color, use w/VDS, volatile, flammable

4. NSD - color, w/water, flush steam (rings)

5. Acetic Acid 28 - color, dissolve acetone (33% or heat), color change if not flushed.

6. General Formula - No rayon, silk, acetate; color, heat accelerates, flammable, flush thoroughly

7.  Rust remover (hydrofluoric) - no weighted silk, glass, metallic (Oxalic ok); protect skin and all surfaces; Use neutralizer and flush thoroughly

8. Protein formula or ammonia 26 - color change silk/wool; yellow optical brighteners

9. Digesters - test color

1. Acetone - Dissolves acetate, triacetate, modacrylic; aggressive on dyes; flammable, volatile

2. Methanol - Damage acetate when heated; flush water - no VDS; aggressive on dyes  

3. Alcoholic KOH Solution - never heat; may damage silk or wool; no bonded fabrics or fabrics with foam; 

1. VDS, tamp, flush

2. VDS+OTPR, tamp, flush, re-dryclean

3. If persists, apply alcoholic KOH, sit 5-6 minutes

4. stain will darken and yellow ring will be created

5. rinse VDS

6. Neutralize yellow residue w/28% acetic acid or a commercial

tannin remover. Flush and dry.

7. Dry clean

May discolor whites.  So, flush thoroughly VDS, neutralize.  Bleach if necessary.