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Shorelines
Lecture number 21.
12
Geology
Undergraduate 2
05/09/2010

Additional Geology Flashcards

 


 

Cards

Term

________is the line that marks the contact between land and sea.

 

Definition
Shoreline
Term

1)_____is the area between the low tide line and the coast.

 

2)______is the area inland from the coastline, as far as ocean related features are found.

 

Choices:

Shore

Coast

Definition

1) Shore

 

2) Coast

Term
_____-generated waves provide most of the energy that shapes and modifies coastal zones.
Definition

 

 

Wind-generated waves

Term

What are crests?

 

What are troughs? 

Definition

Crests: high point of a wave

 

Troughs: low points between waves

Term

______is a short walls built at a 90 degree angle to the shore and close to the beach. It's purpose is to trap moving sand.

 

Goal: to maintain/ expand beaches.

 

Definition

 

Groin

Term
______pair of structures extending into the ocean at river or harbor entrances; built to develop and maintain harbors against storm waves and sediment deposition.
Definition
Jetties
Term

What is a sea wall?

 

What is  a breakwater?

Definition

A sea wall is a barrier built parallel to the shore and close to the beach in order to prevent waves from reaching the land behind the wall.

 

Breakwater is a barrier built offshore and parallel to the shore; protects near shore area and boats from the force of large breaking waves.

Term

Name four factors that wave size depends on.

 

 

Definition

1) wind speed                                                               

2) Fetch ( the distance wind has traveled across open water)

3) water depth                                                               

4) Length of time wind has blown                                       

Term

define these terms:

 

Offshore

 

Nearshore

 

Definition

Offshore is the area seaward where waves break at low tide

 

Nearshore is the area between where waves break at low tide to low tide level.

Term
Loosely describe sea stacks and how they are formed.
Definition
Erosion produces sea caves. Then, sea arches form when sea caves from opposite sides of a rocky headland meet. Finally, the sea arch weakens and eventually collapses causing the formation of a sea stack.
Term
 contrast submergent and emergent coasts.
Definition

Submergent: land once exposed is submerged by the sea. River valleys become estuaries. Hilly terrains become collections of islands.

 

Emergent:Sea level drops exposing land that was covered by water. Waves start to erode the surface that was once submerged by water. This undercuts cliffs eventually leading to the collapse of cliff face.

Cliffs retreat; beach extends

 

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