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Definition
| consist of all components of a garment EXCEPT THE BODY FABRIC, they include trims, labels, threads, elastics, underlying fabrics, zippers, buttons, other closures, and other miscellaneous items |
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Definition
| a subdivision of findings, are decorative materials that adorn the garment (such as ribbons, braids, laces, and other narrow fabric trims but also includes appliques, flowers, beads, sequins, and other decorative items |
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Definition
| findings and trim are critical to this, consumers often discard garments upon the failure of the trim or findings |
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| garment quality continued.. |
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Definition
| the findings and trims must reflect the same quality as the fabric, it must also withstand the same conditions as the fabric |
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| is assessed at all stages of apparel production |
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| aesthetic performance of findings and trim |
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Definition
| refers to the appearance of the items as they complement the appearance of the garment, both findings and trim play an important part and must be considered with design, construction, and finish of the garment because design, materials, construction, and finish interact to produce the total aesthetic effect |
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| functional performance of findings and trim |
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Definition
| refers to the utility and durability as a component of the garment |
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| utility in the functional performance |
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Definition
includes the influence of the trim or finding on these garment
characteristics: 1. dimensional stability 2. appearance retention 3. comfort 4. ease of care 5. safety |
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| durability in the functional performance |
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Definition
| refers to the serviceability of the trim or findings regarding to these characteristics of the garment 1. strength 2. abrasion resistance 3. degradation by chemicals and other elements of the environment |
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| one of the most important performance characteristics of a garment (shrinkage, elongation and elasticity) |
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| 2% variance between trim and body fabric will not adversely affect most garments |
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| when a difference in shrinkage in excess of 2% occurs, the shrinkage of garment parts in varying amounts (causes puckered, rippled look) |
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| Resistance to Degradation |
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Definition
| findings and trims must withstand degradation from the environment, to be considered durable, a garment must consider the following: 1. chemical resistance 2. launderability /dry-cleanability 3. light resistance 4. fume fading |
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| physical features of findings and trim |
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Definition
| determine its performance, include its base raw materials, its structure, and how it is dyed, printed, and finished (size, placement, attachment and reinforcement is also impt) |
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Definition
| include brand, size, care and fiber identification |
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| printed labels - paper labels |
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Definition
| take the least time and allow flexibility, used on casual and low price clothing |
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| buy these from the label supplier, takes longer than printing one's own labels but has a shorter lead time, offers some flexibility |
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| more expensive than printed labels due to the cost of materials and lead times, creates an impression of high quality, soft, comfortable |
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| paper labels are this that are part of the apparel at point of sale, these are temporary labels that are designed for marketing purposes |
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Definition
| a yarn that forms the stitches that hold a garment together, may be used to create decorative effects such as topstitching and embroidery, least costly of a garment |
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Definition
| the strength to break the thread |
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| loop strength of the thread |
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Definition
| the force necessary to separate two stitches |
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Definition
| most threads are polyester, nylon, cotton, or rayon |
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| main types of thread used in apparel manufacturing |
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Definition
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Definition
| consists of staple fibers into single years, 2-6 of these yarns are twisted together to make a thread, strong, elastic and abrasion resistant, slick, cost less than corespun thread, most common thread is spun polyester, |
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Definition
| each ply of corespun thread consists of spun core of pulyester or nylon wrapped with cotton or other fibers, several plies are twisted together to make one thread, have greater strength for their size, less apt to cause puckering, comfortable, best choice for critical seams |
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Definition
| most common filament thread, clear thread made of a single filament of nylon resembling a fishing line, cost effective |
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Definition
| consists of several filament yarns twisted together to make a very strong thread |
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Definition
| use the tex system to identify this |
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Definition
| a narrow, woven fabric used as a trim and to make ties and bows |
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| different types of ribbons |
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Definition
1. grosgrain ribbon
2. satin ribbon
3. velvet ribbon
4. novelty ribbon
5. picot edge ribbon
6. ruching |
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Definition
| are formed by intertwining a set of yarns according to a definite pattern to form a narrow fabric |
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| different types of braids |
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Definition
1. soutache braid
2. middy braid
3. loop braid
4. scrolling braid
5. gimp braid
6. rickrack braid
7. foldover braid |
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Definition
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| different types of lace trims |
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Definition
1. insertion
2. galloon
3. edging
4. beading
5. medallion |
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Term
| other narrow miscellaneous fabric trims |
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Definition
1. piping
2. corded piping
3. bias tape
4. seam tape/hem tape
5. twill tape
6. fringe |
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Term
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Definition
| decorative fabric patches applied to the garment, generally die cut from fusible backed fabric, ironed on, and then permanently attached with satin stitches |
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Definition
| include beads, sequins, rhinestones, flat metal nailheads, raised metal studs, rivets, burrs, plastic/silk flowers, feathers, jewels, pearls |
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Definition
| refer to the fasteners that secure garment openings, unfasten to enlarge the garment for dressing and undressing and fasten to make the garment fit the body |
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
| are molded of plastic (nylon) or stamped out of a sheet of plastic (polyester) |
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Definition
| only about 10% of all buttons, such as wood, metal, animal horn, leather, shell or mother of pearl, nuts, seeds, cost more than plastic buttons, high price lines offer these |
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Term
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Definition
| measured in lignes, with 40 lignes = diameter of 1 inch |
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Term
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Definition
eyed or shank variety
eyed: more casual,2 or 4 holes
shank: cost more, have a stem of plastic, metal, or cloth built into the button, bulkier, require more labor to attach |
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Term
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Definition
| used in some garments instead of buttonholes to fasten buttons, made of narrow tubes of bias fabric, must have adequate size or elasticity to slip over the buttons |
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Term
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Definition
1. toggle
2. frog
3. tab with button
4. d ring |
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Term
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Definition
| decorative button and loop closure sewn to the fact of coats, jackets, and other garments esp those of heavy fabrics, consist of two loops, one has a rod shaped button attached to it, when closed, it looks like two symmetrical loops over the same button |
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Definition
| highly decorative button and loop closure, made of elaborately coiled cord or braid, commonly used in combination with a chinese ball button |
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Definition
| fast, easy means of getting in and out of garments, zippers are more appropriate than buttons for flat areas within garments, parts include tape, chain, slider, pull, and top and bottom stops |
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Term
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Definition
| wavy zipper chain, detracts from the appearance of the garment and stresses the zipper |
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Definition
| wavy zipper chain, detracts from the appearance of the garment and stresses the zipper |
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Definition
| fabric portion of the zipper that is sewn to the garment |
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Definition
| is part of the zipper that interlocks when the zipper is closed (ratcheting refers to a zipper coming unzipped when stress is applied to the two slides) |
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Definition
| made up of separate elements, the teeth of the zipper, are made by attaching the metal or plastic scoops to the zipper tape, the zipper elements are interlocked by the slider, meshes them together to create the zipper chain, zipper doesn't function if the zipper element breaks, can stand stress, suitable for heavy duty applications |
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Term
| continuous element zippers/coil zippers |
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Definition
| twisting a continuous strand of monofilament nylon into a spiral, attached to the zipper tape and enmeshed by the slider to create the zipper chain, don't have sharp edges, lighter, more flexible, ideal for light/medium weight fabrics, self healing (enmeshed again after splitting |
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Term
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
1. conventional
2. separating
3. invisible |
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Term
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Definition
| most common in RWT apparel, has a visible chain, one end, or sometimes both ends, of the zipper remain attached when it is unzipped (used in necklines, waistlines, side seams, and pockets) |
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Term
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Definition
| two sides of the zipper separate into two unattached halves when unzipped, only these can separate, found on coats and jackets |
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Definition
| constructed so the chain of the zipper is concealed beneath the tape when the zipper is closed, only portion of the zipper that is visible out the outside of the garment is the zipper tab, used when a conventional zipper interferes with the appearance of the garment, add bulk, lack flexibility, more costly |
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Term
| miscellaneous zipper types |
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Definition
1. novelty zippers
2. trouser zippers
3. dress zippers
4. reversible zippers
5. two way zippers |
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Term
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Definition
two types:
1. sewn on-by hand or machine sewing
2. mechanically attached -pneumatic machines or kick presses |
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Term
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Definition
| consist of two interlocking parts, a hook and an eye, a receptacle for the hook, small and easy to conceal, stronger than snap closure, used where there is heavy strain, |
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Definition
| d rings, buckles, eyelets and grommets, cords or ties |
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Definition
| interfacings, linings, underlining, and interlinings - lend shape and support to garments |
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Definition
| range from extremely lightweight fabrics to heavy fabrics, interfacing should be the same weight as or lighter in weight than the fabric of the garment, should withstand the same wear and care as the garment, its supporting fabric usually hidden between garmentand its facing, lends body, shape, and reinforcement to limited areas of the garment |
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Definition
| insulative layer applied strictly for additional warmth between the lining and the fashion fabric, should be lightweight and not bulky and withstand the same care as the garment, |
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Definition
| a near replica of the garment, constructed of lightweight fabric and sewn inside the garment with seam allowances reserves to provide a finished inside appearance, most are woven for greater stability |
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Definition
| help hold the garment in position and shape it to the body at the waist, but there also decorative |
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Definition
| shaping device in tailored jackets and coats, are made of a single layer of molded foam or multiple layers of form or batting |
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Definition
| shaping device in tailored jackets and coats, mainly in menswear, is a pad consisting of several layers of supporting fabrics, fill out and smooth the hollow area below the shoulder near the armhole |
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Definition
| used in some tailored jackets and coats, consist of two or three narrow layers of shaping fabric sewn into the upper portion of the armhole and extending out into the sleeve, purpose is to create a soft, smooth roll in the cap of the sleeve |
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Definition
| stay tape sewn at roll line of lapel to prevent gaping |
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Definition
| thin plastic strips inserted in collars to make them stay flat and prevent the collar points from curling |
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Definition
| gives support to a garment through the use of stiff plastic strips, now is used in formal, fitted dresses, and some supportive bras, girdles and women's swimwear, uncomfortable |
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Definition
| basket like device used to expand and support the fullness and draping of the material in the back of the skirt |
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Definition
| used to face and stiffen hems in weddings and formal gowns with full skirts, its a stiff, narrow braid once made of horsehair but today made of sheer nylon, |
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Definition
| in high quality garments to perfect drape - small, thin lead weights are encased in fabric and tacked into position, increases costs but adds to quality |
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| dress shields/underarm shields |
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Definition
| absorb perspiration and prevent the formation of perspiration stains on the outside of the garment, positioned carefully, may be tacked in place for easy removal, extend the life of a garment by preventing perspiration damange |
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