Term
what is the difference between swell and storm waves? 

Definition
storm waves are irregular with respect to T, C, and L. Once they travel for a while, they organize themselves and turn into Swell waves, which are travel in groups of the same T, C, and L 


Term
what are three parameters for predicting wave height? 

Definition
three parameters for predicting waves heights are
1. Wind duration, D
2. Wind speed, U
3. size of windstorm F 


Term
what kind of plot helps you find wave height? 

Definition
a namogram finds wave height after you plug in D, U, and F (wind duration, wind speed, and size of windstorm) 


Term
when does wave shoaling start? 

Definition
wave shoaling starts when L is 1/2 d 


Term
what thoery is the one we get all the equations from? 

Definition
linear/airy wave theory is the one we get all the equations from 


Term
is linear/airy wave thoery ok for shallow water? 

Definition
linear/airy wave thoery is bad for very shallow water b/c it assumes waves are like sin waves. Stokes, solitary wave are both better 


Term
explain the 4 energy dissapation process that turns sea waves into swell waves 

Definition
4 energy dissapation processes that turn sea waves into swell waves
1. angular spreading
2. contrary wind
3. viscous internal dampening
4. destructive interference 


Term

Definition
the Cnoidal wave thoery is good for shallow water b/c it is more realistic than airy theory 

