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Oceanography
Mar 333 w/ Swanson&Peterson
84
Science
Not Applicable
02/25/2012

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Cards

Term
What is that ebb tide?
Definition
the movement of the tide out to sea; “the tide was on the ebb”; “the ebb tide”
Term
What is the flood tide?
Definition
The incoming or rising tide; the period between low water and the succeeding high water
Term
what is flushing time?
Definition
A measure of the turnover time for fresh water in an estuary.
Term
What are Jamaica Bay Resources?
Definition
•Recreational resource
•Wildlife preserve
•Part of the Atlantic flyway
•Rich in habitat
•Important to fisheries
Term
In the early day of Jamaica Bay what was the bay like?
Definition
*its was used for Rereaction
-Rockaway Beach&fishing shanties
*Processing
-oil, fertilizer& fish wastse
*Refuse disposal
-Barren Island
-Pennsylvania Ave. landfill
-Fountain Ave. landfill
-Edgemere landfill
*Fertilizer production
-dead hourses and other another
Term
What is hypoxia?
Definition
means low oxygen and is primarily a problem for estuaries and coastal waters. Hypoxic waters have dissolved oxygen concentrations of less than 2-3 ppm. Hypoxia can be caused by a variety of factors, including excess nutrients, primarily nitrogen and phosphorus, and waterbody stratification due to saline or temperature gradients
Term
What about eutrophication?
Definition
promote algal growth. As dead algae decompose, oxygen is consumed in the process, resulting in low levels of oxygen in the water.” - Mississippi River Basin
Term
What are the 2 species of sea grass in Jamaica Bay?
Definition
*Spartina alternaflora
-Interior of bay
*Phrapmites austraslis
-Fringes of bay

**20% of bay is wetlands
Term
Human-induced Impairment
Definition
*Altered circulation-induced stratification
*Elimination of shellfish harvesting
*Restrictions on swimming
*Restrictions on recreation
*Alteration to topography
*Loss of wetwetlands
*Loss of eel grass
*Eutrophication
*Alterations in drainage
*Reduction of faunal diversity
*Hardened shorelines
*Dredged channels
*Health advisories for striped bass, bluefish, American eel, blue crabs.
Term
How do you study what you can not see?
Definition
*Submersibles
*Remotely Operated Vehicles (ROVs)
*Autonomous Benthic Explorer (ABE)
*Satellite Altimetry
*Tracks
Term
Submersibles
Definition
-Manned submersibles capable of
horizontal and vertical travel
Alvin-Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute ~4,500 meters
Term
Remotely Operated Vehicles (ROVs)
Definition
unmanned, piloted from onboard a ship
~6,000 meters
Term
Autonomous Benthic Explorer (ABE)
Definition
unmanned, untethered vehicle
~6,000 meters
Term
Satellite Altimetry
Definition
using satellites, can measure the height of this bulge
Term
Tracks
Definition
as these satellites pass over the Earth they are continuously recording data
- data from4.5 years of GeoSat measurements have been coded and converted
Term
Echo time
Definition
bathymetry
Term
Echo strength
Definition
backscatter
Term
Echo from within sediments
Definition
seismics or subbottoms reflection
Term
What factors control development Coastlines?
Definition
-Geological Setting
*provides exiting sufaces for processes to shape
-Sea Level
*moves position of the shoreline across the continental shelf
-Waves
*long-shore transport, shorelineline straightening
-Tides
*directs sediment onshore/offshore
Term
What do geologists want to know about the ocean bottom?
Definition
-Depth
-Sediments (composition, thickness, history)
-Rocks below sediments (age, composition)
-Processes controlling the above
Term
Use sound ...acoustics
Definition
- Echo sounding
- Multibeam system
- Satellite altimetry
*Backscatter
*Coring
*Submersibles(but these can cover only only tiny area)
Term
Sounds bounces off layers in sediment to show structure
Definition
use seismic profiling
Term
Alfred Wegener
Definition
Wegener identified several lines of evidence to support the idea that the continents had drifted
Term
Evidence for continental drift
Definition
*Matching mountain ranges across oceans
*Glacial ages and climate evidence
*Distribution of fossils such as
-Mesosaurus and Lystrosaurus
Term
Why did people not believe Alfred Wegener and continental drift?
Definition
*Wegener did not provide a plausible mechanism to explain how the continents could have drifted apart
*Most Earth scientists rejected continental drift because it was
-Too far-fetched
-Contrary to the laws of physics
Term
1. Continents “_____” ______ than _____ crust as made of _______ rock
Definition
float, higher

Ocean, lighter
Term
Ridge crest “_________” oceanic crust forming ________ _____
Definition
splitting, mid-ocean ridge
Term
3. When ocean crust meets continent, is forced under creating ______ and _________
Definition
trench, volcanoes
Term
Passive margins
Definition
A passive margin is the transition between oceanic and continental crust which is not an active plate margin
-Very stable setting
Term
Active margins
Definition
In plate tectonics, a convergent boundary also known as a destructive plate boundary (because of subduction)
-Very unstable setting
Term
Where are active and passive margins?
Definition
Passive margin- eastern North America

Active margin- western Central America
-convergent margin
Term
River plumes
Definition
interaction of river discharge &coastal processes
Term
What kinds of coasts are there?
Definition
shore, coasts
Term
Is the location of a coast fixed?

How do you shape the coast?
Definition
it depends on the volume of ocean basin (amount of water in the ocean)

-Shape depends on: uplift/subsidence, erosion, sediment transport
Term
Coasts
Definition
larger zone affected by processes occurring in this boundry
includes-marshes, dunes, cliffs, sand bars troughs
Term
Shore
Definition
point at which the ocean meets the land
example: sandy beach
Term
Primary Coast
Definition
"young" coast dominated by terrestrial influences
-Altered by erosion (non-wave), sediment deposition, volcanism, tectonics
-Land erosion coasts are frequently formed when a river valley floods (drowned valleys)
-Chesapeake Bay, Hudson River valley
-Also get this with glacial fjords
Term
Secondary Coast
Definition
older coasts significantly altered by wave & other ocean processes

-significantly altered by wave, current, & tidal action
-a variety of features, the most common being a beach
Term
Erosional coasts (4 points)
Definition
-Steep cliffs created as waves undercut rocks (caves, blow-holes, etc).
*Harder rock more resistant to erosion.
-Initially coasts are irregular but straighten with time
-At times of low sea level, rivers may have cut valleys. As these flood during higher sea-level,can make harbors, fjords, estuaries
*Formed by erosion.
-Volcanism can create coasts, often with steep cliffs
Term
Beach
Definition
a zone of loose particles (boulders, cobble, pebbles, gravel, sand, silt) that covers all or part of a shore. Particles are contantly moving.
Term
landward limit of beach
Definition
vegetation, sea cliff, dune, seawall
Term
seaward limit of beach
Definition
where sediment movement onshore/offshore ceases (about 10 m below sea level at low tide)
Term
longshore drift
Definition
Longshore drift consists of the transport of sediments (generally sand but may also consist of coarser sediments such as gravels)
Term
Sand spit
Definition
Sediment being carried along shore settles out as water reaches end of barrier and slows
Term
Bay mouth bars
Definition
sand spit closes off a bay by attaching to headland adjacent to bay
Term
4 Services Coasts Provide
Definition
1)Protection
-storm protection (marshs, barrier islands)
2)Provisions
-fish, shellfish, transportation (goods&waste)
3)Recreaction
-boating, swimming, fishing etc.
4)Function Regulating
-nutrient recycling, (O2 rich water)
Term
Major Ions in Seawater (6)
Definition
1.Na+ 4.Ca+
2.Cl- 5.K+
3.SO4-2 6.Mg2+
Term
Salinity (salt)
D
e
p
t
h
Definition
halocline- (
` .
)
|
|
Term
Density
D
e
p
t
h
Definition
pycnoline- (
` .
)
|
|
Term
Time
D
e
p
t
h
Definition
thermocline- )
,
.
(
|
|
Term
wavelength
Definition
from Crest(A) to Crest (B)
Term
Trough
Definition
the lowest point in a wave
Term
Crest
Definition
the highest point in a wave
Term
Frequecy
Definition
how many waves pass point A or point Beach second
Term
Period
Definition
the time required for wave crest at point A to reach point B
Term
Orbital path
Definition
of an individual water molecule at water surface
Term
1/2 (wavelength)/period
Definition
frequecy
Term
wavelength/period
Definition
speed
Term
C=√gh
Definition
graptivy=g depth=h
Shallow Water Waves (speed)
Term
Shallow Water Waves
Definition
- Tsunamis
Term
What is Fetch?
Definition
distance the wind blows over a body of water that has a force effect
Term
what is the freezeing point of...
1.Freshwater
2.Saltwater
Definition
1. 0*C

2. -1.67*C
Term
What is CTD/Condtivity Temp Depth used for?
Definition
used to measure salinity
Term
What are the 3 types of Detlas?
Definition
-River dominated deltas (Mississippi)
-Wave dominated deltas (San Francisco)
-Tide dominated deltas (Ganges)
Term
List 3 ways to stop erosion
Definition
-gronies
-sea wall
-beach nutrishment
Term
eustatic sea level
Definition
the worlds sea level
Term
local sea level
Definition
local sea level
Term
Conservative vs. Non-coservative
Definition
Conservative vs. Non-coservative
CFCs Nutrients
3He Dissolved O2
Term
_______________________
| CaCO3
| ||
| || Dissolved
| \ /
| V
|......................lysocline
|
|_______________Carbate Compensation
Depth (No CaCO3)

Explain this...
Definition
Carbate Compensation Depth the Depth at which there would be no more CaCO3 (like a snow capped moutain)
Term
Terrestrial vs Marine Environments (4points)
Definition
1. Seawater is much denser then air
-organisms floats
2.Seawater strongly absorbs light
-most of the light is gone below 100m
3.Gravity
-because of bouyancy organisms do not have to invest as much energy
4.O2 can be limiting in marine environments
Term
Spring tides
Definition
occur when the sun and moon are directly in line with the earth and their gravitational pulls reinforce
Term
Neap tides
Definition
A tide that occurs when the difference between high and low tide is least; the lowest level of high tide. Neap tide comes twice a month, in the first and third quarters of the moon.
Term
Diurnal tide
Definition
A tide in which there is only one high water and one low water each lunar day
Term
Semi Diurnal tide
Definition
A tide having two high waters and two low waters during a tidal day.
Term
Residence Time
Definition
amount of element in the ocean /
rate at which the element is added to or removed from the ocean
Term
emphidormic point
Definition
closest to long island = North America
Term
Euphotic zone
Definition
The upper layer of a body of water receiving light and thus where photosynthesis is possible
Term
Population Growth
Definition
Malthus
-famine
-war
-disease
Term
Coriolis Effect
Definition
- varies as a function of latitude
- deflectionis to the light in northern hemisphere
Term
Ekman Transport
Definition
- 45* angle
- wind force
- friction
- upwelling/downwelling
Term
Langmuir Circulation
Definition
A form of motion found in the near-surface layer of lakes and oceans under windy
Term
Nanson (Bottle)
Definition
norwegean/oceanographer/peace prize
Term
How do mix O2 w/ H2O
Definition
-Mixing
-photosynthesis
-Adection
Term
Reefs (3 types)
Definition
1. Fringing Reef
2. Barrier Reef
3. Atolls
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