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Milady's Standard Esthetics CH 12
Skin care products: Chemistry, ingredients, and selection
29
Cosmetology
Not Applicable
02/11/2010

Additional Cosmetology Flashcards

 


 

Cards

Term
Cosmetics as defined by the FDA
Definition
Articles that are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance.
Term

What is the Estheticians main focus?

 

Definition

Improvement of the skins cosmetic appearance.  Estheticians work only with the epidermis.

 

 

Term
Functional Ingredients
Definition
Functional Ingredients make up the majority of a product.  These ingredients do not affect the appearance of the skin but are necessary to the product formulation.  Preservatives are examples of inactive functional ingredients.
Term
Perfomance Ingredients
Definition
"Active Ingredients" Cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin.  Glycerin, which hydrates the skin is an example of an active ingredient.
Term
Cosmeceuticals
Definition

This is a proposed third category, these are products what intend to improve the skin's health and appearance.  Cosmeceuticals are stronger in performance ingredients that may cause biochemical reactions and physiological effect to the skin.

 

*This category is not yet recognized by the FDA*

Term
Hypoallergenic
Definition
An ingredient that may be less likely to cause allergic reactions.
Term
Noncomedogenic
Definition
Ingredients that will not clog pores or cause comedones.
Term
What is the most frequently used cosmetic ingredient?
Definition

Water

 

Water is used both as a vehicle and a performance ingredient.

Term
How much water do anhydrous products contain?
Definition

None

 

Generally, the products are designed for very dry skin.

Term

What are Emollients?

 

How do emollientswork as performance ingredients?

Definition

Fatty materials used to lubricate and moisturize the skin.  They can be either vehicles or performance ingredients.

 

Emollients lie on to p of the skin and prevent dehydration by traping water and decreasing TEWL, which increases moisture in the epidermis

Term
Which oils come from the earth?
Definition

Mineral & Petroleum

 

*both of these oils are biologically inert, meaning they do not react with other chemicals involved in the skin's function.

Term
What are two of the fatties plant oils?
Definition
Coconut oil and Palm oil
Term
Describe the uses of different plant oils?
Definition
Most are used for emollient properties, but some are used for their aromatic essential oils.
Term

What are Fatty Acids?

 

Definition
Lubricant ingredients dirived from plant oils or animal fats.
Term
Name three fatty acids
Definition
Oleic acid, stearic acid, and caprylic acid
Term
What are fatty alcohols?
Definition
Fatty alcohols are fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen.  They are not drying and have a waxlice consistency.  They are used as spreading agents.
Term
Name three fatty alcohols
Definition
Cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol
Term
What are fatty esters?
Definition

They are produced from fatty acids and fatty alcohols. 

 

Esters almost always end in "ate" on labels.

 

They often feel better than natural oils and lubricate more evenly.

Term
Name three fatty esters.
Definition
isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, and clyceryl stearate.
Term
What are silicones as used in cosmetics?
Definition
Silicones are a group of oils that are chemically combined with silicon and oxygen and leave a noncomedogenic protective film on the surface of the skin.
Term
What is Comedogenicity?
Definition
Comedogenicity is the tendency of any topical substance to cause or to worsen a buildup of dead cells in the follicle, leading to the development of a comedo.
Term
What are Sufactants?
Definition
Surfactants are surface active agents that reduce surface tension between the skin and the product to increase product spreadability; also allow oil and water to mix; detergents and emulsifiers.
Term
What do Surfactants do to oil and water?
Definition
Allow them to mix
Term
What are the main type of surfactants used in skin cleansing products?
Definition
Detergents
Term
What are some of the properties of detergents?
Definition

They reduce the surface tension of dirt and oil on the skin's surface and for an emulsion to lift them from the skin.

 

They are agents that cause cleansers to foam.

 

Cleansers if too strong can remove too much sebum and can actually damage the lipid barrier function of the skin.

Term
Name some common detergents
Definition
sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, and ammonium lauryl sulfate
Term
What are Cleansers?
Definition
Cleansers are soaps and/or detergents that clean the skin.  Soaps may be combined with detergents to make cleansers.
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