- clean, neutral pH, free of inorganic contaminants

-potential for water pollution high unless treated before discharged into public water systems

foam carries finishing agent 

less water

less uniform than water finishes

less energy to move and dry fabrics, quicker process

alternate to use of synthetic and inorganic chemicals

- sustainable 

-uses less water

-functions at lower temp

-produces fabrice with better hand and less damage

yarn preparation

slashing or sizing 

quantity of fabrice receiving same processing at same time

-open with or tubular/rope form continuous or batch process

burn off fiber ends to minimize pilling

- smoother fabric surface

sizing on warp removed by physical agitation or chemical(emzyme or acid)

- process depends on fiber and sizing 

more rigorous process than cleaning

removes soil and foreign matter(natural waxes and gumes) before dyeing and special finishing

- gum from silk (degumming)

- wax from cotton

- lanolin from wool (scouring)

fluorescent compounds mask yellow

-NOT bleached

treat with sodium hydroxide 

improves dye affinity of cotton and HWM rayon

-makes the fiber rounder, more acessible, higher moisture regain

-increase the luster, strength, dyeability 

fabric dipped at low tension into caustic soda solution

-crimp increased

-rounder fiber

held under tension

-high concentration of sodium hydroxide

-increases strength, luster, absorbency 

uses weak ammonia solution at high temperature 

- passed through hot water, stretched and dried in hot air

- alternate for merceriztion for cellulosic fabric

-lower cost and less polluting

- less effectice for dyeing but fewer problems with durable press finishes

 dried without tension for soft finish

towels and knits

- heated under tension to set resin finihes or thermoplastic fibers

-tenter frame and passed through oven 

- set- yarn twistm weave crimp and wrinkle resistance

-gives smooth or polished, pressed finish to fabric

- or imparted with surface design

-finishing process where fabrics are passed between rollers under pressure 

straightens and dries fabric

-held between pins or clips, heated in oven 

-impact on fabric grain

inspecting,examining fabric to ensure specified level of quality

- hot air - more expensive

-holds fabric width, dries

-smooth, wrinkle free

change appearance or hand

- process additive or subtractive

- many possibilities from same gray goods

- permanence related to fiber content and technique

applies finishes and dyes

- liquid or paste form

-forced into fiber or yarn 

good penetration

variation of padding

- 1 side only

-usually backing 

-changes light reflectance

-improve fabric luster

- done by Calendaring- cylinder or roller

friction calendar- 1 cylinder rotates faster than other

-fabric passed through finishing solution- partially dried

-glazed chintz, polished cotton

hot calendar glazes surfaces- high gloss

- greater luster on surface- wet look

-cire taffeta, cire satin

very thin polymer layer- added to dry fabric

-higher weight fabrics

-higher pronounced glaze- slicker

-soil resistant and water repellent

wood grain or water marked design on ribbed fabrics

- 2 fabrics calendared or etched calendar

-moire taffeta, morie ottoman

-metal roller engraved with 200-300 fine diagonal lines per inch for deep luster

- flattens yarn for smoother appearance and better cover

-satin, sateen, damask, tricot, 

three dimensional melt design on thermoplastic fabric surface

-controlled surface glazing 

treat cellulose with sulfuric acid

-subtractive process- dissolves

-tendering or weaking of the fabric

-organdy, plisse

-print chemical solvent on blended fabric that disolves fibers or printed areas

- creates sheer areas- tends to fray around these areas

-rayon and  polyester ,or nylon and silk

fabric immersed in mixture 

- waxes, oils, glycerin, and softener

-resin based permanent

temporarily addes body and weight

-gelatin- rayon-permanent

variation of embossing

-paper pattern technique

-costly hand process

paper mold 

blades pleat fabric inserted between 2 heated rolls

heat set- less expensive

chemical printed on nylon or polyester

-partially dissolve or swell fabric surface

-as it dries is shrinks and creates puckered surface

print stripes with sodium hyroxide

cotton and rayon

shrinks treated areas

untreated areas pucker

add surface fiber with adhesive

-short fibers attached to fabric surface

-solvents sometimes dissolve in the adhesive

stitch thread on fabric surface

very durable

brush fibers to surface for fuzzy hand

raised surface on staple fiber fabrics

-increased warmth

-contributes to water and soil repellency

-flannel, flannelette and fleece

mechanical flattening with large wooden blocks

increases sheen, luster, absorbancy, smoothness

- appear tighter

-damask, crash

remove sericin to create looser, more mobile yarns

creates liveliness and suppleness

-dissolve portion of fiber for greater yarn mobility

-creates synthetic apparel fabric with hand and texture like silk

chemical compound penetrates intersections between yarns and fibers

-creates slippage

minimize stress by supporting fabric on blanket during finishing

- heat set blends

shrink more in warp than in filling direction 

- fabric shrinks during processing 

halogenation dissolves part of scale

- surface coat scale with film 

cross- links return molecules to original shape and prevent wrinkle retention

-resins create cross-links

minimize damage from light

-wax emulsions or metallic soaps

-silicone chemical or fluorochemicals

-by creating a high surface tension on fabric

limits air impermeability 

penetration of air

incorporate phase  changing compunds (micro- encapaulated or nanoparticales) that absorb or release heat during phase change (liquid to solid)

- minimize heat flow through fabrics

prevents decay and perspiration damage

controls disease spread and reduces infection

fragrance, insect repellent, disenfectant, cleaning, 

-sprayed on and bonded to fabric 

-semi- durable 

-products used in the dark- microscopic reflect beads

-scotchlite 3m company

-fluorescent dyes and retroflective tape with tiny glass spheres or prisms bonded on surface

- semi- durable - active wear, foot wear

wool, silk, nylon

some rayon, acrylic and polyester

-bright colors poor wet fastness, may have poor light fastness

cotton, some polyester

-bright shades

-good fastness to light and water

-poor crocking

-water insoluble

acrylic, wool

-some polyester and nylon

-good fastness on synthetics but poor on natural fibers

-bright colors

developed direct

(direct dye +metal (mordant)

cellulosic fiber

good light fastness, fair wash fastness

duller colors

cellulosic fibers

inexpensive, poor fastness

most commercially important class

synthetics - acetate, polyester

good fastness

may fume fade

needs special equiment

mordant dyes

(acid dye + metal (mordant)

wool, silk, nylon, some rayon, acrylic, polyester

duller colors, excellent fastness

minor dye class

best on protien fibers, nylon and cellulosics

renewable and sustainable

plant animal and mineral sources

limited colors and availability

water unsoluble, expensive

good fastness

dull colors, limited color range

dark colors- cotton

good fastnes 

inexpensive

good to excellent fastness

bright, pure colors

Mass Pigmentation

- Solution dyeing, producer colored, spun or dope dyed

- Add colored pigments to spinning solution

- Color integral part of fiber - “Locked-in” color

- Limited color range

Stock or Fiber Dyeing - Fibers dyed before yarn processing - Tweed, heather effect

- Dye in yarn stage - Before weaving or knitting

- Stripes, plaids or structural design fabrics

- More expensive than piece dyeing

- More likely to see stripe parallel to warp yarns in woven fabric - easier to dress loom

      - Or parallel to course in knit fabric

- Dyed in skeins, packages or on beams

- Dyed in fabric stage

- Usually solid color

Cross dyeing

- Fibers of different dye receptivity for different colors

- Multicolored fabric – mix dyes

Union dyeing

- Fibers of different dye receptivity for single uniform color

- Solid colored blended fabric - Same dye colors

- Color added after product is cut & sewn

- Fabric, thread, labels, buttons, zippers

- Socks, hosiery, tee shirts, jackets, slacks, towels, etc.

- Requires well prepared gray good

• : continuously immerse fabric in dyebath(oval with tiny circles)

• in bath in open width; dye forced into fabric(3 large circles)

similar to beck

delicate fabrics

1 or 2 bath processes for union and cross dyeing 

- Print design on paper with disperse dyes - With heat, dye evaporates

- Fabric & design on paper are placed in close contact, heated, dye transfers

Powdered dye heat-fixed to fabric surface - Dye location controlled by screens

fabric strength loss due to reaction of dye and fiber

caused by heat, light, atmos spheric contamination