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History of Style Slides
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12
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Undergraduate 3
05/03/2018

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Term
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Definition

Folding Table Chair, Oak, 17th Century

 

  • Baroque (Can we call this Baroque? The influence of Solomonic Columns on the legs is a Baroque characteristic, but is that enough?) yes?

  • Folding table chair, 17th century

  • Convertible chair that becomes a table

  • Dark wood (oak)- Exotic woods

  • Solomonic column inspired - corkscrew legs

  • Dual-function was popular in homes with limited space

  • Common in middle class homes

Term
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Definition

Dutch Family in Batavia (modern day Jakarta, Indonesia) 1665

 

  • Pieter Cnoll

  • Partially occupied by Spain until they revolted, won and joined rest of Netherlands

  • Dark colors were influenced by the Spanish

  • Dutch society boasted most religious tolerance -- most likely because of spanish oppression

  • Most developed Jewish community

  • Daniel quote oppressed people after independence tend to still dress like their oppressors (Spain)

  • Women wearing bertha collars, ¾ length sleeves

  • Shows the high status of the merchant with the servants pictured

  • Dutch fashion: gorgeous fabrics, but modest style and neutral colors.

  • Lace cravat on man

  • Ornamentation with pearls and gold

  • Spaniel Ears hairstyle

Term
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Definition

Imported Japanese Cabinet on a stand made in England, c. 1670

 

  • lacquering/japanning

  • Cabinet on a stand

  • Chinese and Japanese began to make objects specifically for export for Western tastes

  • European craftsmen started to imitate Asian lacquer

  • In Britain the term 'japan' became associated with lacquer in the same way that 'china' was used for porcelain, and the word 'japanned' is still used to describe imitation lacquer.

  • Sometimes the decoration is a clear indicator that a piece was made in Europe, if Western motifs are included, or if the scale of the motifs is inconsistent, such as large flowers or birds combined with tiny human figures

  • Lacquer became available to European elites, along with other luxury items including silk and porcelain, once Portuguese explorers discovered a sea route to the East around the southern tip of Africa and across the Indian Ocean.

  • Baroque ornamentation on stand (grotesque influence?)

Term
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Definition

La Gallerie des Glaces, Versailles, c. 1680

 

  • Versailles, Hall of Mirrors, late 17th century

  • Social room

  • Mirrors on the walls so they could see themselves and how good they looked- also reflected light into the room

  • Parquet floor - wooden blocks in a geometric pattern

  • French doors

  • Ceilings were painted

  • Huge chandeliers to provide more light

  • BAROQUE

  • All of the furniture was pushed to the sides, and they would pull the chairs out as people wanted to sit.

  • Elaborate candle holders, with putti (another word for cherub)

  • Statues in niches in the wall

  • Pargeting- on the walls and ceilings- build up of plaster to create sculptures

  • Bust ←?

 

Term
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Definition

"The Beautiful Woman from Strasbourg", France, 1703

  • Nicolas de Largillière

  • Regional clothes inspired by the peasant look

    • Peasant style--taking something practical, turn it into fashion!

  • Fichu - Neck scarf--originally to protect neckline from sweat, not practical here.

  • Apron - not for cleaning

  • Lashing - technique used on sleeves of garment

  • French

  • Engageantes - under sleeve that sticks out, usually lace

  • “Dogs as an element of seduction”

    • That makes me…. uncomfy

  • Type of bi-corn hat (regional type)

  • Black as a fashion color (unless this is mourning attire? Doesn’t look like it)

 

Term
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Definition

"The Declaration of Love" 1731, French, late Regency/Early Louis XV period

 

  • Jean François de Troy

  • Early 18th century, French Regency

  • Sacque-back dress, with box pleats (Sacque is just french for sack, ‘cause it looks like a sack)

  • Man is wearing a wig bag--little bag for queue (the little ponytail in the back)

  • Powdered hair for men came after powdered hair for women

  • Trying to be neoclassical by having themselves painted in front of some classic-lookin’ stuff

  • Jabot (ruffles on the chest of men’s shirts)

  • Men wearing cravats

  • Ditto suit- 3 piece suit- matching vest, pants, jacket are all made of same material- lace cuff also matches lace collar/cravat

  • Women wearing Louis heels

  • Oriental fabric

  • robes à la française (I don’t know if these dresses are fitted enough in the bodice. I think they’re all sacque dresses.

Term
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Definition

Voyeuse Chair, Early to mid 18th century, France

  • “Voyeuse” feminine version of “voyeur,” like a creeper who gets off on watching other people. (To help remember the name)

  • The women used the padded back to rest their arms on while they watched men play games.

  • Used during the french regency

  • King Louis XIV (the Sun king) dies his son and grandson die → the people RELAX

  • Louis great grandson becomes king louis XV but he is still a child until he is of age this time is referred as the regency period

  • The regent was Phillipe, Duke of Orleans  

  • Rococo  - light, delicate, pale pastel colors, feminine, plant and floral decorations

    • Baroque’s kawaii cousin

 

Term
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Definition

Men's embroidered formalwear ensemble, Great Britain, c. 1780-1790

  • c. 1780 men’s formalwear coat

  • Orientalism!!

  • Cut-away coat

  • Jabot- ruffle on front shirt (takes place of cravat)

  • Queue- ponytail down center back

  • Men’s powdered wigs came after womens’ (kept in wig bag)

  • Considered Chinoiserie, although the fruits depicted are more indicative of the Dutch and English presence in Southeast Asia and the South Pacific

  • typical of the inauthentic and combined view of the east that was present in Chinoiserie

 

Term
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Definition

Charles Honore Launnier, card table, Mahogonay and ormolu, New York 1819

  • Charles Honore Launnier, most impressive and important cabinet maker in American History

  • Federal furniture, Neoclassical style

  • Mahogany = Tree

  • Ormolu = gold casting

  • EMPIRE AND REGENCY CHARACTERISTICS:

    • Sphinxes, lions, swans, caryatids figures are examples of Egyptians and Etruscan motifs, along with Greek/Roman

    • Symmetrical

  • Claw foot, Greek and Roman CHARACTERISTICS

  • Launnier -- furniture designer, was CRAZY about Egypt

    • Is that Egyptomania?

      • Absolutely



Term
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Definition

 

James McNeil Whistler, The Peacock Room, 1876

  • This room is an example of orientalism (a hella example of it)

  • Anglo-japanese style room

  • was once the dining room of Frederick R. Leyland for his porcelain collection, London, England

  • designed by architect Thomas Jeckyll

  • James McNeil Whistler painted the peacocks and Christina Spartali’s portrait “The Princess from the Land of Porcelain”

  • installed in the Smithsonian in 1904.

  • Chinoiserie on shelves throughout the room

Term
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Definition

 John Redfern, trousseau for Princess Beatrice of Great Britain, Harpers Bazar, 1885

  • Harper’s Bazar was an early fashion magazine!

  • Transitional movement to make new silhouettes

    • Princess line popped up (The line that goes from mid shoulder through the bust point and down) (Over tha nips)

    • Dress came off the floor

  • Butt adornments, rows of pleats

  • The overall emphasis on the butt (erogenous zone) “can’t keep a good butt down” -Daniel Cole

  • The second bustle period (1883-1889) actually came third!

    • [ First bustle period (1870-1877)

    • The Cuirasse Silhouette (1878-1882) ]

  • Very high neckline

  • Modest-sized hats

  • Menswear influence

  • Harder shape than previous decades

  • Draped fabric over bustle, but not nearly as much as the First Bustle Period

Term
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Definition

 

Frank Lloyd Wright, Hillside Home School, Wisconson, 1902

  • The beginnings of modernism

  • Incorporated landscaping and terrain into design

  • Frank Lloyd Wright strove for Organic architecture- promotion of harmony between human habitation and the natural world

  • the Hillside School provided a key part of Wright's early resume

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