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Emilio Pucci, The Prince of the Prints
-Antonio Pucci- a powerful and loyal friend of the Medici
-Opened in 1947
-Opposite to the classic French elegance
-Americans wanted afforded but chic, practical but elegant
-First to open boutique fashion
-Used new colors and materials (straw)
-Offered color that French fashion could not offer
-Pucci Palace is still opened today, full of art inside (inspiration)
-Started the Capri pants, after the island of Capri to walk in the water
-Costumes colors and heraldic patterns were sources of inspiration for scarves and shirts
-Dressed based off of the horse races in Sienna
-Inspirered by places all around Italy
-Mid 1960s- Psycadelic colors
-Clothes that liberate the body
-Now company is mainly run by Pucci’s wife and other designers.
-Have achieves off all designs that have ever been made |
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Liberation of Fashion after fashion shows started in the 50s
Grow of the fashion Industry
1951- 2800 shops, 1961- 5000 shoes
Modern consumerism |
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Fist ever-Italian fashion designer
-Presented his collection in Milan instead of Florence because there was not room for individual shows
Pret-a-porter- pronto moda |
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| Street fashion- younger designers |
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Fashion was a larger group including young people, glamour, style, and creativity
-Broke the traditional style of the 50s
London was the center for this change, Capital for the new street, young fashion |
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| Movie Blow Up- inspired by important fashion photographers at the time |
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Movie Blow Up- inspired by important fashion photographers at the time
David Bailey
Franco Rubariecci
Soundtrack my Herbbie Hancock- created electric jazz
Lyrebirds- London band at the time |
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Industries fill the fashion gap in the medium and low market segments that demand modern apparel, made of good fabric, well cut and fashionable,
-Marzotto, Zenga, |
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Albini presents his collection in Milan, followed by Krizia and Missoni
-Gap between the world of fashion of the past and the new requirements for more modern work
-Designers closely collaborated with the apparel industry and complied with the working methods of mass production |
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- Atelier in Milan 1956
- First fashion show- pitti palace 1965
- Called the Italian Coco Chanel
- Geometric style
- Style of cuts, the movement made by the shape
- Started Men’s wear in 1971 |
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-Achievement of MADE IN ITALY
- International success of young stylists, Armani, Ferre, Versace
-New Close relationship between design and industry
-Fashion is industrial design
-Quality of the materials and workmanship |
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-Fashion design is independent from the schemes of the past
-Fashion products meet demand; models are based on individual requirements
-Fashion victim
-Male look- confident, free and easy |
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-Stilnovo (fashion line)
-1960- swinging London
-Loved to dress up women’s legs
-Started pantyhose line with colors, shapes, textures and shapes
- 3 elements of the 1960s… GEOMETRIC CUTES, OPTICAL MOTIFS, STRONG COLORS
-He started seamless body suits |
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| Female Look (1970s-1980s) |
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Career woman
-Sexy, glamorous
-Super body
-Top Models: Naomi, Linda, Claudia |
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-First collection 1973
-Grew up modest family, mother was a home tailor
-Idea that what really counts in life is hard work
-He finds out what he like through elimination of what he doesn’t like
-DESIGNER- invents the clothes, not making it with his own hands
-Comply with the essential relationship between fashion, time and quantity of required fabric
-Designer needs to know the market, what people want
-His concept is simple and revolutionary: to desecrate the jacket that keeps man in a sort of cage, to make it comfortable, easy to wear and is it wear a sweater
-In 1975 created the destructured jacket- no linging
-Women: gives them authority, personality, alluring but makes others feel uneasy, bold, OR convey the inner beauty of a woman
-Reducing the gap between man and woman
-Armani stands for rigor against showy and loud elegance…classic and consistent
-Inspired by 1920s and 1930s |
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-First collection in 1978
- Industrial bourgeoisie, middle class education, degree in architecture
-The architect of clothing’s, the intellectual off the ephemeral
- Strong French influence
-Sophisticated technical ability
-ESSCENTRICITY, EDDACDET, EMOTION
-Influenced by travels to India and the Far East
-Exotic cultures, draping
-Yellow. Gold, red, fuchsia, white
-1974 debut in prêt a porter
-1982- means wear
- -strainger lines, na colors, pur color
-Gentle while shirts, as light as a cloud in thsky |
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-First collection 1978
-Worked as a family team
- Gianni was murdered in 1997 in Miami
-Sister Donatella took over (now the creative head)
-Grew up in the tailor workshop of their mother
-Logo is Medusa (ancient Greek icon)
-Combining the exceptional quality of the material with completely new manufacturing techniques and reinvented volumes and proportions
-Aceltic source of inspiration
-Evaluation of the bodyline to create new looks- glossy jersey stretch plastic collection/ plastic collection
-Women- likes to be admired, seductive
-1989- Versus line for younger market
-Visual communication was sometimes more important than the product
-Intense collaboration with the world of music and theater (ex: Elton John, Madonna, Prince)
-Believe in the value of fashion images, he is charmed by the photographer’s blow up, which immortalizes his fashion
-Famous fashion photographer: Avedon, Meisel
-Collaborations with Ballet, Gianni designed the costumes for a ballet by Maurice Bejart |
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-First store in 1968
-Run by 3 bothers and 1 sister
-Luciano is the art director and Giuliana is the designer
-1960s- Outer wood knitwear was considered a complement of jackets- not very popular
-Proposed out knitwear as separate fashion garment with new, beautiful colors and new style
-affordable and comfortable, medium quality
-Continuous color research
-classical, wearable and never excentric style
-low production cost and prompt adjustment to consumer’s taste: fashion value and competitive prices
-Stay classic, do not follow trends
-1990s expansion and growth
-Think in terms or technology and industry
-The retailer must accept precise standards:
-economic/ financial aspect of business
-layout of the store
-sale/ advertising method
-Diversification
-Corporate development: shops around the world, holding company, sport sponsorship
-Sensational, controversial, shocking campaigns- by Photographer Oliviero Toscani
-Symbol with condoms and AIDS
-Colors magazine |
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-Founded by Guccio Gucci in Florence in 1921
-One of the most famous, prestigious brands in the world
-biggest selling Ialian brand in the world
-operates 425 through out the world
-IN 1947 Gucci introduced the bamboo handle handbag, still a company classic
-In the 1950s, Gucci developed the trademark striped webbing which was derived from the saddle girth,
-Gucci expanded overseas to the far east and in the 1960s opened stores in Hong Kong and Toyoka
-in the 1960s- worn by Hollywood stars and Jackie O
-Common theme of nature in their designs |
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Started by Domenico Dolce and Stfano Gabbana
-First collection in 1985
-Sensual and Mediterranean southern woman
-Animal print ( D&G wildness book)
-Lesbian chic
-1989- first men’s collection
-1994- accessories: ties, glasses, scarf, leather, underwear
-a woman that is modest , simple, but also glamorous
-photographer- Mangnua photo agency
- use traditional Italian beauty for ads
-Neorealism fashion inspired by Italian actresses Magnani, Mangano, Cardinale
-Underwear style- corset and bra |
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| Current trends in Italian World Fashion |
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-management more important than product
-global market (The book, The Market of BRIC)
-fashion designer- cool hunter
-search the world for inspiration and predict the future trends
-street style- industrial fashion |
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-China
-India
-Russia
-Brasil
Global approach- attention to global image: from clothes to lights, funishing and architecture |
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-wearing clothing commonly associated with another gender within a particular society
-ex: Gaultier 2003 and Prada 2008 |
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| Mainstream popularity in 1992 |
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-Grunge fashion consisted of plaid, flaanel, stonewashed jeans, dark colors
-Long straight hair, doc martins
-Unisex, considered “anti-fashion” but turned into a distinct fashion style |
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-Established in Milan in 1913
-1978 Miuccia Prada- art director, started to included more than leather bags
-1983- first shoe collection
-Conceptual fashion- simple and essential garments
-minimalism
-Making clothes helps to express myselt . I like to wear ideas- PRADA
-contemporty art- Philip Galss, Steve Reich ( musicians)
-I don’t make elegant clothes anymore, but the opposite. I make ugly clothes from ugly marterial: bad taste- PRADA
-Buying a $5000 handbad just because it’s a statue symbol is a sign of weakness. Daring to wear something different takes effort. And being elegant isn’t easy. You have to study it, like cuisine, music and art -PRADA
-Making fashion Intelligent fun- MIU MIU
-Prada Foundation |
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-From Florence, rasied by mother
-majored in textile prints at the Art Institue of Florence
-invented and patented an original printing method done on leather, and began creating his now famous patchworks made of different materials
-Cavalli, Just Cavalli, Angles and Devils, H&H, Coca-Cola
-Close link with nature
-Art of printing
-like innovations and experiments, likes to push techniques to the limits
-creates his vibrant patterns by using the most advanced technologies, but he gets in inspiration from animal prints and nature
-highly idiosyncratic style, focus on detilas as well as the full image, likes to play with excesses, opposing and balacing them in a new harmony |
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