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Fashion Trends Midterm #2
Fashion Terms!
80
Art/Design
Undergraduate 1
04/15/2013

Additional Art/Design Flashcards

 


 

Cards

Term
17th Century Time Period & Location
Definition
  • A century of social and political upheavals...civil wars, religious persecution, revolts, peasant discontent, etc.
  • Period of the Thirty Year War in Germany 
  • Encompasses most of the Baroque era.
  • The Baroque style was lavish, ornamentation... free and flowing lines.. massive as opposed to delicate
  • All countries of Western Europe at that time.
Term
Social
Definition

~Absolute Monarchy was generally the rule. - ruling by Divine Right

 

~France - Louis XIV (Sun King) 

 

~England - James I (Divine Right of Kings) 

 

~Charles I came to rule

 

~Charles II took the throne

 

~Russia - Peter the Great

 
Term
Economic
Definition

~Growth in Trade and Business
Term
Commerce
Definition

~Growth of Trade continues. This develops to the Far East. Japan closes its trade to Europe

 

~Formation of the East India Company

Term
Religion
Definition

~Catholics and Protestants co-existed.

 
~Catholic church’s Counter-Reformation... where they persecuted the Protestants 
 
~Puritans were a group in England who opposed certain ‘Roman’ rituals and attempted to ‘clean up’ the church.
Term
Literature and Art
Definition

~Baroque Style... was curvilinear and massive

 

~Artists: Rubens, Hals, Rembrandt, Vermeer, Van Dyck, Poussin and Valasquez

 

~Literature: Cervantes, Milton, Moliere

 

~Music: Bach, Handel’s early beginnings

Architecture - Christopher Wren

Term
Intellectual
Definition

~Newton, 1684 Theories of Motion

 

~Galileo, 1632 Theories of Astronomy

Term
Costume Overview
Definition

Styles of Clothing - influenced by Groups

Puritans - plain or ‘sad’ colors, high crowned hats

Cavalier or Royalist sympathizers - broad brimmed plumed hats

Aprons became a fashion for Puritans and Cavalier’s

Spanish - farthingale (Spanish - verdugado), mantilla (veil)

Women

 

soft gowns with floppy lace collars, lace cuffs

bodices and skirts usually separate

skirts and petticoats

Men

 

called cavaliers, gentlemen fops

loose fitting garments, decorated with many ornaments

high boots, (floppy topped), hose with lace cuffs, plumed hats

Term
Evolution
Definition

Men

Tunic, pourpoint, doublet >>> vest or waistcoat

justaucorps or jerkin >>> jacket or coat (Habit in French)

Women

tunic >>>cotte or dress

kirtle>>> petticoat

 
Term
Materials 
Definition
  • Cotton Chintz - a handpainted or printed fabric, sometimes with a glaze
  • Cotton Calicoes - small printed fabrics (Calcutta, India)
  • Bengal Muslin
  • Brocades, velvets, embroidered velvets, satins, damasks, cloth of gold.
  • Colors were bright.
  • Fabrics richly decorated with pearl’s, gold, etc.
  • Demand for cotton was so high that smuggling and evasion of laws occurred (Tortora
Term
Silhouette
Definition

Moved towards a vertical line later in the 16th century and into the 17th century

Men dressed with great ornamentation.

Women were narrow shoulders, small waist, full hips.

Silhouette became more fitted.

Term
Doublet/Pourpoint- A close-fitting jacket, with or without sleeves, worn by European men between the 15th and 17th centuries.
Definition
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Term
Vest/Waistcoat
Definition

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A sleeveless garment, often having buttons down the front, worn usually over a shirt or blouse and sometimes as part of a three-piece suit.

Term
Coat, Justaucorp
Definition

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 a fitted, knee-length coat, characterized by wide turned-back cuffs and stiff flared skirts, worn especiallyby men in the 17th and 18th centuries.

Term
Rochet
Definition

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 a knee-length, narrow-sleeved, light outer garment of linen and lace, worn by prelates in some ceremonies

Term
Rhinegraves/ Petticoat Breeches
Definition

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Petticoat breeches were voluminously wide, pleated pants, reminiscent of a skirt, worn by men

Term
Pantaloni/Breeches
Definition

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Short trousers fastened just below the knee, now chiefly worn for riding a horse or as part of ceremonial dress.

Term
Spanish slops/ Full slops
Definition

[image][image]

short full breeches worn by men in the 16th century

Term
Baldric
Definition

[image][image]

A belt for a sword or other piece of equipment, worn over one shoulder and reaching down to the opposite hip.

Term
Shirts
Definition
[image]A garment for the upper body made of cloth, with a collar, sleeves, and buttons down the front.
Term
Falling Bands/ Band Strings
Definition

[image]

A collar with rectanglar points falling over the chest,

Term
Galants
Definition
[image]
Term
La Braye
Definition

[image]

 

Term
Cannons
Definition
[image]
Term
Cassock
Definition

[image][image]

A full-length garment of a single color worn by certain Christian clergy

Term
Manteau
Definition

[image][image]

a loose cloak, coat, or robe, A loose gown or cloak worn by women..

Term
Jabot
Definition
An ornamental frill or ruffle on the front of a shirt or blouse, typically made of lace.
Term
Steinkirk
Definition

[image][image]

a cravat with long hanging ends loosely twisted or looped together and worn esp. in the 18th century by men and women

Term
Bucket Boots
Definition

[image]

Thigh-high riding boot with cup-shaped wide top, square toes and higher heels than the jackboot

 

Term
Brandenburgs
Definition

[image]

 

Term
Gown/Robe
Definition

[image][image]

A long dress, typically having a close-fitting bodice and a flared or flowing skirt, worn on formal occasions.

Term
Decolletage
Definition

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a low-cut neckline on a woman's dress

Term
Farthingale
Definition

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A hooped petticoat or circular pad of fabric around the hips, worn under women's skirts to extend and shape them

 

Term
Corset/Busc
Definition

[image] [image]

A woman's tightly fitting undergarment extending from below the chest to the hips, worn to shape the figure.

Term
Stomacher
Definition

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A V-shaped piece of decorative cloth, worn over the chest and stomach in the 16th century

Term
False/Hanging Sleeve
Definition

[image]

unbuttoned lower part of sleeves which hang down, sometimes to ankle length

 

Term
Justaucorp
Definition

[image]

a fitted, knee-length coat, characterized by wide turned-back cuffs and stiff flared skirts, worn especiallyby men in the 17th and 18th centuries.

Term
Fichu
Definition

 

[image][image]

a woman's kerchief or shawl, generally triangular in shape, worn draped over the shoulders or around theneck with the ends drawn together on the breast.

 

Term
Medici Collar
Definition

[image]

A fan-shaped (especially lace) collar, standing upright behind the head and sloping down to meet a square neckline in front.

Term
Bertha Collar
Definition

[image]

Nine to 18 inches of fabric or lace attached all around neckline (or yoke).  May or may not reveal the shoulders

Term
Echelle
Definition

[image]

[image]

 

Term
Prentintailles
Definition
Term
Pinners
Definition

[image][image]

a woman's cap with two long flaps pinned on.

Term
Palatine, Pelerines, Tippet
Definition

[image][image]

A woman's cape of lace or silk with pointed ends at the center front

Term
Perruque/Periwig
Definition

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A highly styled wig worn formerly as a fashionable headdress by both women and men

Term
Cadenette or Lovelock
Definition

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A curl of hair worn on the temple or forehead.

Term
Bayeux Lace
Definition
Term
Fontange
Definition


[image][image]

A fontange is the name of a headdress popular in the late seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries in France

Term
Postilion
Definition

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A person who rides the leading left-hand horse of a team or pair drawing a coach or carriage

Term
Patches
Definition

[image]

 piece of cloth or other material used to mend or strengthen a torn or weak point.

Term
Earstring
Definition
Term
Muff/Muffatees
Definition

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A tube made of fur or other warm material into which the hands are placed for warmth.

Term
Gauntlets
Definition

[image]

A stout glove with a long loose wrist.

Term
18th Century
Definition
Term
Coat or Habit
Definition

 

[image]

justacourp pattern[image]

An outer garment worn outdoors, having sleeves and typically extending below the hips.

 

Term
Waistcoat (vest)
Definition

[image]

A vest, esp. one worn by men over a shirt and under a jacket.

Term
Breeches
Definition

[image]

Short trousers fastened just below the knee, now chiefly worn for riding a horse or as part of ceremonial dress

Term
Shirt
Definition
A garment for the upper body made of cloth, with a collar, sleeves, and buttons down the front.
Term
Frock Coat or Frac
Definition

[image]

A man's double-breasted, long-skirted coat, now worn chiefly on formal occasions.

Term
Redingote
Definition

[image]

  1. A woman's long coat with a cutaway or contrasting front.
  2. A man's double-breasted topcoat with a full skirt.
Term
Neckcloth
Definition
A cravat.
Term
Ramille Wig
Definition

[image]

an 18th century wig with a long plait in back that is tied top and bottom with bows

Term
Bag Wig
Definition

[image][image]

a black hair wig carried in a small silk bag.

Term
Solitaire
Definition
A diamond or other gem set in a piece of jewelry by itself.
Term
Tricorne
Definition

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cocked hat with the brim turned up to form three points

Term
Gaiters
Definition

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  1. A garment similar to leggings, worn to cover or protect the ankle and lower leg.
  2. A shoe or overshoe extending to the ankle or above.
Term
Gowns: Various Sorts
Definition

[image]

A long dress, typically having a close-fitting bodice and a flared or flowing skirt, worn on formal occasions.

Term
Watteau Gown
Definition

[image][image][image]

 having back pleats falling loosely from neckline to hem

Term

Robe a la Francaise, Robe a la Anglaise


Definition

[image]

[image][image]

Term
Polonaise
Definition

[image][image][image]

an elaborate short-sleeved overdress with a fitted waist and a draped cutaway overskirt.

Term
Robe Redingote
Definition

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Dresses open in front to show an underskirt or with a front gore of contrasting material, with collar and lapels and long sleeves. Bodice may be double-breasted and high-waisted

Term
Levite Gown
Definition

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A fashionable dress for women, introduced about 1780. It was satirized by Horace Walpole as resembling “a man's night-gown bound round with a belt

Term
Panier
Definition

[image][image]

Panniers or side hoops are women's undergarments worn in the 18th century to extend the width of theskirts at the side while leaving the front and back relatively flat.

Term
Corset/Stay
Definition

[image][image]

  1. A woman's tightly fitting undergarment extending from below the chest to the hips, worn to shape the figure.
  2. A similar garment worn by men or women to support a weak or injured back.
Term
Falbala
Definition

[image]


a gathered flounce, frill, or ruffle or 

a furbelow or puckered flounce for decorating dresses

Term
Pagoda Sleeve
Definition

[image]

a wide, bell-shaped sleeve popular in the 1860s, worn over an engageante or false undersleeve.

Term
Modesty Piece
Definition
A piece of cloth extending up from the neckline, theoretically to protect the wearer's modesty, often used to tastefully draw...
Term
Pelisse
Definition

[image]

  • A woman's cloak with armholes or sleeves, reaching to the ankles.
  • A fur-lined cloak, esp. as part of a hussar's uniform.

Term
Calash
Definition

[image]

a woman's large folded hooped hood; worn in the 18th century

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