Term
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Definition
| The spirit of the times or the many factors of an era that influence the clothing styles. |
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Term
| As Fashion Changes..... so does |
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Definition
figure emphasis e.g. bosom, genitals, waist
pose patterns e.g. debutante slouch
movement e.g. hobble skirt |
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Term
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Definition
1. differences in purpose for wearing clothes
2. differences in materials available for making clothes
3. difference in ways of making clothes
4. differences in clothing customs
5. social and political influences |
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Term
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Definition
| Created through the arrangement of material around the body. It may be pinned, pleated, draped and belted in different ways. This tended to be common in warmer climates |
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Term
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Definition
| Is cut, sewn and shaped. Generally, these were warmer clothes and were more common/necessary in colder climates |
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Term
| The basic garments of the ages |
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Definition
| loincloth, skirt, tunic, cape |
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Term
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Definition
~Silhouette - rectangular
~Unfitted coverings made of animal furs and hides, plant materials (bark cloth), also felted wool.
~at first it was just draped and tied (belted) |
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Term
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Definition
| was made from threadlike parts of plants or from fur or the hair of animals. Also, sinew. Later, it was made from cotton or wool |
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Term
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Definition
| sewing began probably around 30,000 BC, when bone needles were developed. |
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Term
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Definition
| this garment was made of a length of woven material or animal skin. It was typically folded in half, sewn up the sides with a slit for a neck opening. |
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Term
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Definition
| This was made of cloth or fur and designed to cover the genital areas. |
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Term
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Definition
| This was a piece of fabric or fur, thrown or arranged around the shoulders. |
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Term
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Definition
| This was a tie or belt-like article worn to support and/or arrange the design of the garment. It was also used for utilitarian purposes, e.g. to hold a knife. Often the girdle could be very decorative. |
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Term
Ancient Egypt
Time & Location |
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Definition
~5,000 B.C. - 332 B.C.
~period ended when Alexander the Great conquered Egypt in 332 B.C.
~located in the NE corner of Africa, centering around the Nile River in a valley with cliffs and desert
~ Mediterranean Area |
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Term
Ancient Egypt
Social Structure |
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Definition
A. Theocracy
B. Pharaoh
~Dynasties & kingdoms
A. Classes were divided as follows: (compare this to a pyramid)
1. royalty, priests and nobles
2. scribes (managers, bureaucrats)
3. artisans, craft workers and merchants
4. workers
5. slaves (foreign captives) |
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Term
Ancient Egypt
Economy & Commerce |
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Definition
~Agriculture, Manufacturing, Craftsman, Mining
~Exports/Imports: Barter system |
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Term
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Definition
Pharaoh
Afterlife
Re and Osiris |
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Term
Ancient Egypt
Literature and Art |
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Definition
~The Book of the Dead
~Paintings
~Sculpture - statues e.g. sphinx
~Painting
~Architecture -pyramids, temples,tombs, palaces and homes of the upper class. |
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Term
Ancient Egypt
Intellectual |
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Definition
hieroglyphics
papyrus (paper made from the reeds along the nile)
astronomy
medicine
math |
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Term
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Definition
the scarab
the hawk,
the cobra
the vulture (Upper Egypt)
The Eye of Horus |
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Term
| Egyptian Clothing Creation |
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Definition
Linen , a very fine see-through fabric from flax plant
Other fibers
Colors
Embellishments
Goffering (similar to ironed pleats) |
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Term
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Definition
Tubular or Triangular.
Draping |
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Term
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Definition
body conscious
cleanliness.
Cones of scented wax were set on the heads of guests at parties, and as the evening progressed, the wax would melt over the wigs and perfume the air with myrrh or cinnamon. (Tortora: 24 )
Cosmetics e.g. Kohl
Jewelry and head dresses e.g. Jeweled Collars |
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Term
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Definition
Shenti
Egyptian "skirt" for males worn multiple ways. Often goffered.
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Term
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Definition
shendot
Egyptian. Strip of hanging fabric worn by males to indicate status & manhood |
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Term
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
kalasiris
Egyptian. Tunic-like
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Term
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Definition
procardium
Egyptian. "tunic" for females. Often worn below breasts with "suspender" straps.
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Term
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
Gala Gown or Gala Skirt.
Egyptian. Male or female.
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Term
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Definition
postiche
Egyptian. Fake goatee held on by straps. |
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Term
| Ancient Mesopotamia Time & Location |
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Definition
| ~5,000 B.C. - 539 B.C. ~The period ended with the takeover by the Persians in 539 B.C ~Located between the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers in the part of the world that today forms much of the mideast. (Iraq, eastern Syria and SE Turkey). Surrounded by desert. |
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Term
Ancient Mesopotamia
Groups of people |
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Definition
1. Sumerian (cultural),
2. Babylonian (not much progress),
3. Assyrian (Military) and
4. Chaldean or Neo-Babylonia (restored some of the culture).
King Hammurabi (Babylonian) and Nebuchadnezzar (Chaldean) |
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Term
Ancient Mesopotamia
Social Classes |
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Definition
Classes were divided as follows:
1. Patricians or aristocrats (land holders)
2. Burghers or common citizens
3. serfs (own land) and slaves |
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Term
Ancient Mesopotamia
Economy |
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Definition
Agriculture
Chief Products
Barter System for Imports & Exports |
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Term
Ancient Mesopotamia
Religion |
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Definition
| Polytheistic Sha-Mash and Ishtar present world belief |
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Term
Ancient Mesopotamia
Literature/Art |
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Definition
Depicted scenes of daily life and events around them.
Ziggurat
Royal Standard of Ur
Used cylinders to imprint motifs on tiles. |
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Term
Ancient Mesopotamia
Intellectual |
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Definition
Cuneiform
Commerce related systems
Law
Water clock and lunar calendar -
Math - used in building, area, volume, etc.
Astronomy
Medicine
Personalitites
Sumerian - Sargon I
Babylonians - Hammurabi (Code of Hammurabi)
Assyrians - Ashurbanipal
Chaldeans - Nebuchadnezzar (built the terraced roof known as the Hanging Gardens ,one of the 7 wonders of the world). |
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Term
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Definition
Plant-life motifs and geometrics.
Motifs were used on fabrics.
Wool
Cotton
Linen and Silk through trade |
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Term
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Definition
Tubular or Triangular (through tiering).
Fringing
Draping |
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Term
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Definition
Syrian and Phoenician Cape/Wraps
a meld of Egyptian and Asian |
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Term
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Definition
Kuanakes
Sumerian: Men and Women |
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Term
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Definition
| Tunic, Skirt, Capes, Girdles, Belts Men were clean shaven but wore beads |
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Term
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Definition
Assyrians and Babylonians Clothing
Tunic or Candys
Skirt
Cloak Like Overgarment
Stole or Scarf |
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Term
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Definition
| War-fare, militaristic, hunters and horsemen. These were the first people to cut and sew clothing (as opposed to drape) Anaxiride - trousers tightly fitted at the ankles. |
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Term
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Definition
Ephod
Hebrew. Pancho-like overgarment |
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Term
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
caftan
Hebrew tunic/dress. Loose flowing. |
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Term
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Definition
| Turbans Assyrians= brimless hat |
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Term
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Definition
|
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Term
| Ancient Crete and the Aegean |
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Definition
~Time Period: 3000 - 1400 B.C.
~An island off the coast of Greece, in the Mediterranean Sea
~Minoan (Crete), Helladic Mycenaeans (mainland), Cycladic (islands) and Troadic (Troy)
~The Aegean Sea, Crete |
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Term
Ancient Crete and the Aegean
Clothing |
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Definition
Plant-life motifs and geometrics.
Motifs were used on fabrics.
Wool
Cotton
Linen and Silk through trade
Metal and Leather |
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Term
Ancient Crete and the Aegean
Silhouette |
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Definition
| Tubular or Triangular (through tiering). |
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Term
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Definition
| Crete/Aegean. The shrunken jacket (as worn by snake goddess statue). Exposed breast & mid-length sleeves. |
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Term
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Definition
Creten & Aegean Skirt/Tunic/girdle
Women wore multi-tiered skirts, double sided apron & a girdle/belt. |
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Term
Ancient Greece
Time/location |
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Definition
~Time Period: 3,000 B.C. - 323 B.C.
~This period extended from the Aegean civilizations through Hellenic Greece (there are many periods, each given names, Homeric, Dark Ages, Hellenic, etc.)
~Greece is located on the Mediterranean Sea which sits to the south. The Aegean Sea is on the east side, between Greece's mainland and Asia Minor. The country is composed of a mainland and various islands
~
~ |
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Term
Ancient Greece
Culture/Social |
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Definition
peace loving
beauty of the body
belief in equality of man
Classes were divided as follows:
* the Citizens
* the Metics
* Slaves |
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Term
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Definition
Agriculture
Industry
Trade- Import/export |
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Term
Ancient Greece
Literature and Art |
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Definition
Homer's Epic poems, the Odyssey and the Iliad
Tragic Drama
Art - Statues Pottery
Architecture - Doric: rather heavy, sharply fluted columns, and Ionic: more slender, graceful columns |
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Term
Ancient Greece
Intellectual |
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Definition
Olympic Games -
Philosophy of Thought -
Math -
Biology -
Math -
Medicine - |
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Term
Ancient Greece
Wars/periods |
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Definition
1. Persian War, 479 - 439 B.C.
2. Peloponnesian War, 431 - 404 BC Athens vs. Sparta
3. Rise of Macedonia and Alexander the Great 404 - 323 B.C.
4. Hellenistic Age, 323 BC to 31 BC |
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Term
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Definition
A. Motifs
Greek Key
Geometric
Plant life
B. Materials
Spinning and weaving
Wool and linen
purpura shellfish.
Other Information
simple design
use of draping |
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Term
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
Chiton
The tunic of Greek women. Long draped dress tied at shoulder w/ fibula (pins). Doric= 1 pin; Ionic= multiple pins along arms (more detailed architecture too) |
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Term
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Definition
| Pins (looked like safety pins). |
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Term
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Definition
chlamys
Greek. Cape draped around shoulder and open at "sword arm" |
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Term
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Definition
Greek girdle
Women. Wrapped/tied around waist and breasts |
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Term
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Definition
himation
Greek. Man or woman. Piece of rectangular cloth draped over shoulders/head as a hood/viel. (Draped like a scarf, not tied like medieval veil.) |
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Term
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Definition
peplos
Greek. Overgarment shirt. Rectangle cloth pinned at shoulders & open on one side. |
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Term
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Definition
petasos
Greek. Brimmed hat (like straw hat) |
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Term
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Definition
Phrygian Cap
Greek. Strapped on cap with curl @ top. "Liberty Cap" |
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Term
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Definition
tholia
Greek hat. Looks like a witch hat that is balanced/pinned on head. |
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Term
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Definition
| Greek. Evolved into metal crown. |
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Term
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Definition
Buskin
Greek boot made of fur wrapped and tied around foot. |
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Term
| Ancient Rome Time/Location |
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Definition
| ~Time Period: 12th C. BC to 476 AD ~Tiber river ~Its history is divided into Early Inhabitants (till 6th C) the Republic (6th C - 27 BC) and the Roman Empire (27 BC to 476 AD). |
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Term
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Definition
Classes were divided as follows:
1. Citizens - ( the patricians, plebeians and citizens without the vote)
2. the rest of the population - slaves and non-citizen foreigners.
Women became educated and important in the running of daily affairs.
the paterfamilias.
Citizenship
Emperor was the top of the social structure |
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Term
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Definition
Agriculture was the #1 economic activity.
Warfare was the other.
As Rome conquered countries it set up plantation farming.
Trade extended to all parts of the known world, e.g. India, China.
Manufacturing of pottery, textiles, metal and glass.
Agriculture |
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Term
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Definition
Religion was Polytheistic
Their Gods and Goddesses resembled Greek gods, but were not quite as human.
Stoicism |
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Term
Ancient Rome
Literature and Art |
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Definition
Literature was very related to philosophy. Horace and Virgil were two philosopher/writers.
Art - influenced by the Greeks. Became more original in the Empire period.
Architecture
Sculpture, Fresco |
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Term
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Definition
A. Motifs
many types of motifs
decorations were embroidered, woven
B. Materials
Weaving, spinning etc. was carried out in business establishments, rather than the home... 50 - 100 people. (although some was performed in the home by the women)
Wool, then linen were the primary fibers.
Silk and Cotton
Dyeing
use of draping
Indutus - garments that were 'put on'.
Amictus - garment that were wrapped |
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Term
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
Tebenna (Etruscan) (ta' ben-a)
Roman. Draped/Wrapped Hood. |
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Term
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Definition
Tunic (Men), Tunica (Women)
Roman. |
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Term
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Definition
Stola
Roman. Overgarment. Woman. Rectangular cloth draped over shoulders and wrapped around body. |
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Term
| Clavus (plural) Clavi (singular) |
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Definition
Roman. Stripe down front of clothing for status.
[image] |
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Term
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Definition
Dalmatica
Roman. Male Overgarment. Tunic with sleeves, but not wrapped like tunic/tunica. |
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Term
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Definition
Toga
Roman. Made from Rectangular cloth wrapped around body. |
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Term
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Definition
Palla - (Women)
Roman. Woman. Rectangular cloth drapedover 1 shoulder and wrapped around body once. Could be pulled over head as a hood for modesty. |
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Term
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Definition
Paludeamentum (pa-lu-da-men'-tum)
Roman. Male. Cape draped over one should. Similar to Greek chlamys. |
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Term
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Definition
Paenula - (pie-new'-la)
Roman. Male. Semi-circle cloth draped around shoulders & could be used as a hood. |
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Term
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
| Roman. Women's underwear/swimwear. |
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Term
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Definition
Cuirass
Roman. Armor Breastplate |
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Term
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
Calceus
Roman footwear. Sandal-like w/ open toes. |
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Term
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Definition
| ~Time Period: 330 AD to 1453 AD ~Constantinople is located at the entrance of the Black Sea, and it became the focal point of many trade routes between the East and West. Thus, it became a metroplolis and the focal city of Europe until 1200. The influences of east and west became intermixed. Byzantium was constantly at war Crusaders sacked the city in 1204 and destroyed much of its art and culture. |
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Term
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Definition
~Religion was Christianity, split from Roman Catholic Church = Eastern Orthodox
~Christianity spread within the Roman Empire between the 1st and 4th centuries AD
Why?
Romans opposed Christianity
Christianity in Western Europe was centered in Rome, with the Roman Catholic Church (Pope or Bishop). An Eastern Europe the Greek Orthodox Church (Patriarch) centered in Constantinople. These two powers vied for control, and in 1054 the church split to become two entities. |
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Term
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Definition
The head of the state was the Byzantine Emperor.
The class of nobility became the main force of government. |
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Term
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Definition
Trade
Development of silk production and woven fabrics
Silk production
Manufactured patterned fabrics, damasks, brocades, etc. |
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Term
Byzantine
Literature and Art |
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Definition
|
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Term
|
Definition
Many of Persian influence, as well as Eastern influence.
Decorations were embroidered, woven.
Two major contributions to the world were:
1. Development of patterned woven fabrics, (using a shuttle), e.g. brocade and damask
2. establishment of a silk industry.
Wool and linen were the primary fibers.
Fabrics were adorned with semi-precious stones, enamel medallions, embroidery and appliqués.
D. Other Information
more fitting
patterned fabrics
layering |
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Term
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Definition
Early silhouette - Roman influence
Later silhouette - more fitted, with influence of the Orient. |
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Term
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Definition
Tunic/Gunna
Byzantine. Gunna=Female. Fitted. Looks pre-medieval. |
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Term
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Definition
Dalmatique/Dalmatica
Byzantine. Female. Decorated, loose, long-sleeve tunic. (like kimono.) |
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Term
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Definition
Juppe
Byzantine. Sewn shirt with baggy sleeves in under arms. |
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Term
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Definition
| Byzantine. Male= cape like greek/roman. Female= wrapped around shoulders. |
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Term
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Definition
| Byzantine. Patch sewn usually onto the Paludamentum/Mantle |
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Term
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Definition
| Byzantine. Design/patch sewn onto tunic/clothing. |
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Term
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Definition
| Byzantine. fitted pants for men. |
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Term
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Definition
| Byzantine. Male. Long, rectangle strip of fabric wrapped around body in an X pattern. |
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Term
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Definition
| Similar to Roman status stripe, but now more decorative and not only for status. |
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Term
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Definition
| Veils, Turban-like Headwear, Diadem Crowns |
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Term
|
Definition
Clean-shaven men
Women, soft flowing wavy hair, parted in center, or pulled back. |
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Term
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Definition
| Byzantine Footwear. Open sandal or wrapped sandal. |
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Term
Middle Ages (Medieval)
Time/Location |
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Definition
~Time Period: approx. mid 5th C. to 1500
~About 1000 yrs between Roman Empire & Renaissance.
~All countries of Western Europe at that time. e.g. Italy, France, England, Spain, Germany, Portugal, Netherlands, etc.
~Feudalism
Islam
Dark Ages vs. Later Middle Ages,
Charlemagne |
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Term
|
Definition
Social Structure: Nobles (land holders) and Serfs (masses)
King - Powerful Lords- Lessor Lords, Knights, Serfs |
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Term
|
Definition
Feudal System
The Crusades
By approx. 10th C trade increased and towns began to grow.
Bourgeoisie or townspeople. - a new Middle Class
Trade Fairs
Merchant Guilds
By 13th C. the church owned 30% of the land in Western Europe.
In early Middle Ages, the decline of Trade and Industry... merchants stopped shipping, roads deteriorated.
In general, as feudalism increased, trade decreased. |
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Term
|
Definition
Two major religions: Christianity (2 orders) and the Moslem's Islam (Mohammed the prophet, and Allah their God).
Crusades: 1095 - 1291, the Holy Wars - between the Christians and Moslems.
Holy Inquisitions |
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Term
Middle Ages
Literature and Art |
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Definition
Latin became broken down into local languages, e.g. French, Italian and Spanish in the making.
The Church preserved Roman-Greco culture (copying books and manuscripts), and influenced literature with religious themes and architecture (cathedrals)
Music - Gregorian Chant
Architecture was first Romanesque (thick walls, few windows, rounded arches) and later Gothic (thin walls, pointed arches, tall spires, gargoyles, stained glass) e.g. Notre Dame and Westminster Abbey. |
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Term
|
Definition
Universities were founded, e.g. Oxford, Cambridge
Invented magnifying lenses, glass windows, mechanical clocks. |
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Term
|
Definition
A. Motifs
many types of motifs
decorations were embroidered, woven
Cotton.
New Fabrics were muslin, dimity, and silk damask.
Trade Guilds were established to develop the manufacture of cloth for export.
Wool |
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Term
|
Definition
~Early silhouette was based on Roman influence, with simple cuts and styles.
~Later silhouette became more fitted. Fitting was achieved not only by 'cut' but by lacing of garments. |
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Term
| Gonelle/Cottelle/Bliaud/Bliaut/Gunna |
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Definition
| Tunic of Middle Ages. Roman influence. |
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Term
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Definition
| Middle Ages. Female loose dress. Not wrapped. |
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Term
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Definition
| Middle Ages female. 1st version of the signature dress of the era. |
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Term
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Definition
| Middle Ages. Male/Female. Sleeveless tunic overgarment. |
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Term
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Definition
| Middle Ages. Male. Coat/tunic over-garment. Typically knee-length. Belted for a false belly or not belted (as in marriage painting). |
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Term
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Definition
| Middle Ages. Long sleeves. Wealth symbol. |
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Term
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Definition
| Middle Ages. Male. Shirt barely long enough to cover butt. Usually warn w/ belt (to make short skirt shape) & pants. |
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Term
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Definition
|
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Term
|
Definition
| Middle Ages. Male underwear that went to knees. Made by wrapping & tying. |
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Term
|
Definition
| Middle Ages. Male. Hose/trousers. Could be knee-high or pants. |
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Term
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Definition
| Middle Ages. Loose shirt with pleats/scrunching around or below neckline. (like a short night shirt.) |
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Term
|
Definition
|
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Term
|
Definition
| Middle Ages. Long strip of fabric hanging from top of hood or cap. (Night cap inspiration) |
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Term
|
Definition
| Middle Ages. garment that is 2 colors (half & half). Known as Jester's clothing. |
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Term
|
Definition
|
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Term
|
Definition
| Middle ages. Female. Wrapped around headdress. |
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Term
|
Definition
| Middles Ages. Female headwear. Open, crown-like hat. Often held on by chinstrap. |
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Term
|
Definition
| Middle AGes. Female. Double-horned headdress |
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Term
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Definition
| Middle AGes. Single horned headdress |
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Term
| Caul/Reticulated Headdress |
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Definition
| Middle Ages. Female. Wrapped around braid and worn on both side of head. |
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Term
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Definition
| Middle Ages. Male shoes. Very pointed. |
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Term
|
Definition
| Middle Ages. Strapped onto shoes to walk through mud |
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Term
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Definition
| Middle Ages. Platform heels. |
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Term
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Definition
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