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Definition
| A short jacket (worn by both men and women); ended at the waistline, (in women's styles just under the bosom). Named for Lord Spencer |
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Term
| A LA TITUS (HAIRSTYLE) or A LA VICTIME (HAIRSTYLE) |
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Definition
Short, curly hairstyle, referred to short haircuts given to victims about to be guillotined during the Revolution, also referenced Roman statues.
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Term
| BONNET ROUGE (buhn-ay-ruhze) |
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Definition
| The red cap of liberty, worn as a symbol of the French Revolution. |
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Definition
| From the Empire period on, these became a basic part of women's underclothing. Previously worn by continental European women; usually cotton or linen; open through crotch area. |
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Definition
| First form of handbag; a necessity with the diminishing silhouette of 1790's. |
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Definition
| Daytime or evening dresses that did not open in front to show a petticoat (late 18th century). |
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| Name given to the French Revolutionists or Jacobins to distinguish them from the aristocrats who wore knee breeches. Since they wore the long trousers (PANTALOONS) that had been used by only the lowliest of peasants in centuries past, they were literally without culottes or breeches. |
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Definition
| "Incredibles"; extroverts who were characterized by their extreme exaggeration of current styles; disheveled, slept-in look. (1790's). |
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Definition
| Feminine counterpart of male Incroyables. |
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Definition
| Characterized by continuous front edge from lapel to hem; knee length; eventually replaces tail coat for daytime wear. |
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Definition
| Long, shapely greatcoat, with 3 to 5 shoulder capes and high collar. |
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Term
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Definition
| A fashionable man who dressed well, circulated in the "best" society, and who was always ready with a witty comment. Personified by George "Beau" Brummel |
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Definition
| Most informal type of dress for women, often white cotton or linen lingerie-type fabrics |
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Term
| PROMINADE, CARRIAGE, or WALKING DRESS |
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Definition
| All dresses worn during the day. |
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Term
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Definition
| Dress accessory, wide, cape-like collar that extended over the shoulders and down across the bosom. |
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Term
| CHEMISSETTE (shem-eze-zet) |
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Definition
| Another type of dress accessory, similar to the partlet, this was a neckline filler for daytime wear |
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Term
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Definition
| Wide deep collar following the neckline. |
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Term
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Definition
| Soft, full sleeve gathered into a fitted cuff. |
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Term
| GIGOT SLEEVE or LEG-OF-MUTTON SLEEVE |
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Definition
Extremely full at the shoulder, decreasing in size to the wrist where they end in a fitted cuff.
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Term
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Definition
| Full from shoulder to elbow, tightly fitted to wrist |
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Term
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Definition
| Trimming for dresses, pleated or gathered strips of fabric |
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Term
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Definition
| Head covering for women usually fitting over back and top of head and tying with strings under chin. Worn primarily outdoors. |
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Term
| BOWLER HAT (England) or DERBY HAT (United States) |
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Definition
| A stiff felt hat with a low, round crown and narrow brim. |
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Definition
| A high crowned hat with a flat top and narrow brim. Also called Chimneypot hat, Stovepipe hat, pot hat, plug hat, silk hat; subtle differences applied to the different names. |
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Definition
| Rubber overshoes to protect shoes, introduced in late 1840s. |
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Definition
A cloak of rubber coated waterproof fabric invented by Charles Mackintosh.
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Term
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Definition
| A fabric woven of flax and horsehair, wiry enough to replace two or three cotton petticoats. |
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Definition
| Term now used for series of circular hoops of diminishing size-"cage"-first of whalebone or cane inserted in casings; later of watchspring steel protected by rubber, riveted to tapes. |
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Term
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Definition
| Open sleeve which flared widely below the elbow; drew attention to lingerie under the sleeves. |
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Term
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Definition
| Named after Amelia Bloomer who attempted to institute dress reform. Consisted of a pair of full trousers gathered in at the ankle and worn under a knee length skirt. |
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Term
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Definition
| A full-length dress cut in one from shoulder to waist with a number of gores and full enough in the skirt to go over a hoop. Usually it buttons up the front. |
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Term
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Definition
| A loosely fitted dress worn without a corset in the privacy of the home or with women friends. |
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Term
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Definition
| Cut along the same lines as the FROCK COAT. Worn by men outdoors |
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Definition
| Sportwear garment worn by men; cut with loose legs and belted into a band that buckled just below the knee. |
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Definition
| A Heavy short coat worn by sailors from 1850 on. |
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Definition
| A jacket with box pleats or straps of the same material passing over the belt and extending from shoulder to hem in front and back; usually worn for sporting occasions. |
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Definition
| A loose-fitting combination of vest, coat, and trousers of the same material, with the coat ending at the finger tips and having high, short lapels. It was used in commerce and in sports. Forerunner to the contemporary man's suit. |
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Definition
A dress version of the sack suit jacket, introduced in 1880s, also called a DINNER JACKET.
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Definition
| Suspenders worn to hold up trousers. |
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
| A velour hat with a fairly high, tapering crown that was usually creased in the middle. |
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Definition
| Hair net worn by women of colored silk or chenille. |
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Term
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Definition
| Whalebone or steel strips placed in the top back of the petticoat or in a separate panier puff in order to hold out the elaborate draping at the back of the overskirt. |
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Term
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Definition
| Dye made with colorless oily compound, a base of coal-tar dyes. Generally refers to any synthetic organic dye; eventually replaces use of natural dyes. Enabled textiles to achieve brilliant, though poor lasting color. |
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Definition
Wool knit fabric; JERSEY SWEATER is a close-fitting pullover sweater.
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Definition
| Famous Fortuny gown influenced from Ancient Greek styles. It was completely pleated and worn without body constricting undergarments |
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Definition
| A coat of panama, pongee, alpaca, or natural linen used for driving and motoring to protect the dress from the dust of the road. |
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Definition
| A skirt popularized by Poiret; the circumference at the hem line is so small that women could barely walk, but had to hobble along. |
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Term
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Definition
| Also had a very small circumference at the hem but had draped fullness around the hip. |
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Definition
| A casual version of the sack suit jacket worn for leisure. The BLAZER falls into this category. |
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Definition
| Part of the new riding costume; trousers fitted closely around lower leg and flared out at the knee. Still in use today. |
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Term
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Definition
Women’s undergarment, previously called DRAWERS, later called PANTIES.
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Definition
| Necktie; with wide ends knotted and held in place with jeweled stickpin |
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Term
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Definition
| Necktie: what is common today, tied in a slip knot, originally used by coachmen. |
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Definition
| A hand-woven hat of fine straw from Ecuador and Colombia, South America. |
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Term
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Definition
| A man’s hard straw hat coated with shellac worn in summer. |
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Definition
| Hair style popularized by Gibson Girl; all the hair is swept up off the face and neck and loosely molded over a stuffed circle form of cotton or horsehair called a RAT. |
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Term
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Definition
1910 first commercial production in U.S., cellulosic-based, made from wood pulp.
Shares similar properties to other cellulosic fibers such as cotton and flax. Properties: soft and comfortable; drapes well; highly absorbent; no static, pilling problems; fabric can shrink; loses strength when wet; poor elasticity and resiliency; susceptible to mildew and silverfish.
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Term
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Definition
| First commercial U.S. production in 1924, cellulose based made from wood pulp or cotton linters. Properties: luxurious appearance, crisp or soft hand; excellent drapeability and softness; moth and mildew resistant, shrink resistant (when not exposed to heat); low moisture absorbency, relatively fast drying;no pilling problems, little static problems; most acetate requires dry cleaning; poor strength, weaker when wet; may gas fade. |
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Term
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Definition
| First commercial production in U.S. 1939, now is the second most manufactured fiber behind Polyester. Properties: lightweight; exceptional strength; good elasticity, good resilience; abrasion resistant; good drapeablility; resists shrinking and wrinkling; hydrophobic--low moisture absorbency; static and pilling can be a problem; poor resistance to continuous sunlight. |
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Term
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Definition
| Clothing cut on a diagonal to the fabric grain which increases the fabric stretch and causes the body to be emphasized. |
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Definition
| A short haircut for women, encouraged various incarnations but the popular bob of the 20’s had the hair swept back from the face and lightly waved to the bottom of the ears and upper part of the neck. |
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Term
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Definition
| A close fitting bell shaped cap. |
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Term
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Definition
| Also GARÇONNES (mannish girls) these women embraced the cult of youth and were recognized for their slim, boyish appearance. Flappers could dance the night away without a care in the world and wore clothing suitable to that purpose. Garçonnes wore mannish clothing, suits and trousers. |
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Definition
| Emerged in the mid 30’s but gained popularity as an alternative to uniforms and wartime fashions. Worn primarily by African-American and Mexican-American youths it was known for its exaggerated styling: exceptionally long, waisted jackets featured extra-broad padded shoulders and were worn with ultra high waisted trousers with lot of volume and tapering to narrow turn-ups at the ankle. |
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Definition
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Definition
| A wide cloth band worn around the waist to imitate the same item worn by Spanish and Latin American men as a first waist sash. Worn with men’s evening dress. |
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Definition
| A triangular or A-shaped dress. |
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Term
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Definition
| Narrow shorts that end just above the knee. |
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Term
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Definition
| New name for FOUNDATION GARMENTS used to give support under clothing. |
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Term
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Definition
Line of clothing created by Christian Dior in 1947; utilized excessive amounts of fabric.
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Term
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Definition
| Same as CAPRI PANTS; Mid-calf length pants. |
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Definition
| Extremely wide, loosely cut straight dress. |
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Definition
| Extremely wide, loosely cut straight dress. |
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Definition
| African garment; collarless wide shirt with kimono-type sleeves. |
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Definition
| Romantic, old-fashioned style, popularized in the 70’s. |
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Definition
| Extremely brief shorts that barely cover the bottom. Came into fashion early 70s. |
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Term
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Definition
| Ankle to floor length skirt worn in the late 1960s to early 1970s. |
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Definition
| A very short skirt that ends well above the knees. First came into popularity between 1963-1970. |
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Definition
| A brief and erratic reaction to the MINI SKIRT in which designers (late 1960s) tried to lower hemlines to mid-calf and below, intended to be worn with boots. |
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Definition
| A fitted tunic with a low standing collar instead of lapels. Originally worn by East Indian men, came into fashion for men in 1960’s London. |
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Definition
| Loose fitting footless stockings used by dancers to keep their legs warm; became popular accessory in the 80’s with the advent of the movie Flashdance. |
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Definition
| New innovation of synthetic fibers, nylon and polyester; the fiber is so fine that it can take on new properties that make it more comfortable to wear. |
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Definition
| Combination of punk and hippie styles; Early 90’s consisted of wearing many layers of homemade, customized or second-hand clothes, look was colorful, disheveled. |
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Term
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Definition
Combination of clothing and fiber art, movement originated in the 1970’s.
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