brad, slow drifts of surface water impacted by

-wind

-coriolis effect

causes any body that moves freely (respect to the rotating earth) to veer

-toward the right in the northern hemisphere

-toward the left in the southern hemisphere

Regardless to the intital direction of the moving body

global patterns of water circluation, forced by sinking dense,cold, and salty water

-heat

-moisture

(twice daily rise & fall of sea)

caused by the graviational attraction between

(length)

distance b/w wave crests or troughs

(Height)

vertical distance b/w crest & trough

(time)

time of successive waves to pass a fixed point

(velocity)

V=L/T

velocity=length divided by time

Waves Near Shore

(shallow water)

H=increase

L=decreases

V=decrease

T=does not change

(depth)

effective lower limit of wave motion equal to 1 half the wave length

Where the waves breaks to the point furthest up the shore, where waves wash up

(surf=wave break)

bending of wave crests as they get to the beach at non-normal angle and changes direction of movement

-touches the seafloor

seawter covers 70.8% of earths surface

-pacific 

-alantic

-indian

measure of seas saltiness, expressed by per mil

(% = parts per thousand)

33-37% 

Function

-evaporation

-percipitiation

-inflow

99.9 % of oceans salinity reflect presence of 8 ions

-chloride, sodium, sulfat, magnesium,calcium, potassium, bicarbonate, bromine

Temperature

(Global Temp)

range of temp on land 146*C

-highest record (libyan desert- 58*C)

-lowest record (Vostok Station Antarctica=-88*C)

range of temp at ocean surface 38* C

-highest 36*C

-coldest -2

Temperature

(Ocean Circulation)

Vertical Stratification

Caused by difference denisty

-temp

-salinity

density-driven movements of seawater leads to circulation in deep ocean

-parts slows down

-wave length decrease

-wave height increase

affects various sectors of coastline differently

-waves converge on headland,which vigorously eroded

-refractions waves approach bay, make them diverage, diffusing energy at shore

-irregular coasts become smoother & less indented

sediment carried by swash & backwash along beach

(successive movement)

-far from shore only fine grains move

-sediments grade seaward from sand into mud

wave-washed sediment along coast, including sediment in the surf zone

-swash zone

-surf zone

-breaker zone

-uplift

-subsidence

-rock type

-sea-level changes

-wave heights

-tidal range

-structure & erodibiltly of coastal rocks

-active geologic process at work

-length of time these pricesses have operated

-history of world sea-level fluctuations

Daily Results

-tidal forces

Longer Time Scale

-changes in volume of water in oceans as continental glaciers wax and wane

-motions in lithospheric plates causing volume of ocean basins change

fluctrations contribute to evolution of world coasts

structural

-groins

-increase erosion downcurrent of structure

non-structural

-beach nourishment

-land-use planning

-expensive, not cause of erosion