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Dynamics of Clothing SFL 280
BYU's Dynamics of Clothing class
82
Other
Undergraduate 2
02/25/2011

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Term
textiles
Definition
must be made before any garment can be designed.
Term
What is the process textiles go through?
Definition
mills, converters, importers, jobbers, retailers
Term
Mills:
Definition
make fibers, yarns, wovens, knits
Term
Converters
Definition
greige goods, dyed, printed, finished
Term
importers
Definition
direct importer and import mill
Term
Jobbers
Definition
small quantities, mill overruns
Term
retailers
Definition
home sewers
Term
Manufacturers
Definition
1. design the line
2. purchase fabrics and trimming
3. make patterns with CAD system
4. cutting and sewing garments
5. marketing goods to retailers
Term
retailers include:
Definition
department store, specialty stores, direct mail, online and cable. outlet stores, off price discounters, mass merchants (walmart), private label and brand names.
Term
fashion communication: what must happen for people to receive recognition and success?
Definition
mass media must pass on info to appropriate markets for recognition and success.
Term
what are the appropriate markets media passes info to?
Definition
consumer magazines, trade periodicals, resident buying offices, trade associations, fashion forecasting
Term
define fads. who does it affect?
Definition
short lived styles. Popular, quick, then die just as fast. industry's nightmare. usually affects a specific group: craze or mania. impulse.
Term
define trend
Definition
General direction or movement. styles that last at least one season are considered fashion
Term
define classic:
Definition
style that remains in fashion for a long time. staying power. staple to wardrobe.
Term
what are the steps in the fashion cycle?
Definition
introduction. Growth. Maturity. Decline.
Term
What happens in the INTRODUCTION stage of the fashion cycle?
Definition
1.innovation and beginning to rise stages
2. shown to public with limited exposure
3. styles are more expensive in this stage.
4. fashion forecasters and editorial press give opinion
5. if styles accepted here, then adaptations or copies will move into wider consumer acceptance
Term
What happens in the GROWTH stage of the fashion cycle?
Definition
1. rise and acceleration
2. once style catches on, lower priced variations and copies are marketed
3. styles available at variety of price points
4. consumers can now purchase less costly models
Term
what happens in the MATURITY stage of the fashion cycle?
Definition
1. general aceptance
2. sale achieve highest potential
3. styles at every retail level
4. at some point sales peak and then level off, then decline
Term
What happens in the DECLINE stage of the fashion cycle?
Definition
1.shorter than introduction stage
2. manufacturers of style at higher price level have stopped and less expensive copies take over market
3. new styles are introduced as other fashion cycles begin
4. items in cycle are drastically reduced at department stores and low selling prices at off -price retailers
Term
what is collective selection?
Definition
formation of collective tastes among a mass of people
Term
what is the trickle down theory?
Definition
fashion is first adopted in upper class then it is imitated by each lower class until it reaches the very bottom
Term
what is the trickle across theory/
Definition
there are fashion leaders that exist in each social class that are more influential than those in the higher social classes.
Term
what is the trickle up theory?
Definition
fashion starts in the lower class or sub culture and moves upward into larger population
Term
modesty theory suggests:
Definition
cover private parts of body
Term
modesty theory foundation:
Definition
morality is based upon concealment of body
Term
accepted modesty theory:
Definition
wearing clothes based on a cause, not experimentation with body
Term
modesty theory argument:
Definition
modesty is socially learned, standards changes with culture and time
Term
immodesty theory suggests:
Definition
attract sexual attention to certain body parts
Term
immodesty theory foundation:
Definition
familiarity breeds indifference, concealment breeds interest
Term
immodesty accepted theory:
Definition
individuals appear clothed or nude with feelings of modesty and immodesty
Term
immodesty argument:
Definition
how did early humans know, cross cultural differences.
Term
adornment theory suggests:
Definition
decorative nature of clothes for display, attraction, or aesthetic impression
Term
foundation of adornment theory:
Definition
'savages' can be naked but still adorned
Term
accepted adornment theory:
Definition
people evolved from decorating bodies to wearing clothing, then modest and functional
Term
adornment argument:
Definition
more cultural than modest, still exists unclothed people, but they are decorated.
Term
protection theory suggests:
Definition
clothing protects humans from elements, animals and insects
Term
foundation of protection theory:
Definition
protection is important function of clothing
Term
protection accepted theory:
Definition
clothing originated in tropical locations for protection against insects, then social status, then modesty
Term
protection theory argument:
Definition
fallacy in thinking people evolved.
Term
what is an opinion leader?
Definition
influence adoption and diffusion through interpersonal communication and contact with others
Term
events from 1900's.
events
style
Definition
events:
1. Paul Poiret started first fashion house
2. wright brothers take first flight
3. Henry Ford makes first affordable car
Style:
1. lavish designs
2. emphasize bust, wait , hips
3. S shaped curve; formal and romantic
4.Men: vests, pants, jacket, shirt with necktie
Term
events and style of 1910
Definition
Events:
1. changing role of women
2. retailing expansion
3. WW I breaks out
Style:
1. hobble skirts: close and tight fitting, loose fitting begin to replace
2. WWI imposes SIMPLICITY and ECONOMY on styles
3. Movie clothes begin to emerge. the 'gibson girl' look
Term
events and style of 1920's
Definition
events:
1. prohibition act
2. wall street crashed 1929
3. olympic games allow women participation
Style:
1. skirts get shorter
2. more style variety
3. clothing fitted in an unrestrictive way
4. flapper.
5. kneee length hemline
6. women's freedom increases and interest in activity too.
Term
events and style 1930's
Definition
events:
1. depression sweeps world
2. nazi's take control of parliament
3. 1939 WWII begins
Style:
!. elegant
2.midcalf hemline
3. bias cut
4. strapless neck
Men
1.looser looks
2. broad shoulders
3. double breasted with wide lapels
Term
events and style 1930's
Definition
events:
1. depression sweeps world
2. nazi's take control of parliament
3. 1939 WWII begins
Style:
!. elegant
2.midcalf hemline
3. bias cut
4. strapless neck
Men
1.looser looks
2. broad shoulders
3. double breasted with wide lapels
Term
events and style of 1940's
Definition
events:
1. war, women enter workforce, rosie the riveter
2. food rationing
3. big band, jive, swing
4. casablanca
Style:
women- simple padded shoulders and shorter skirts. separates can be mixed. rounded shoulders.
men: single breasted suit, narrow lapel, contrasting sports coats and trousers. jeans become more acceptable wear.
Term
events and style of the 1950's
Definition
Events:
1. korean war
2. movie industry continues to climb
3. first space satellite launched
4. james dean dies
5. huac hearings
6. beat generation, cool jazz
Style:
women:
1. diverse, hemlines alternate short and long
2. tailored clothing
3. full skirt
4. pedal pushers,
5. Unisex fashion begins
Men:
1. charcoal grey suit. narrow lapels, narrow shoulders, narrow pants. pants buckle in back. shorts. leather jackets
Term
events and style of 1960's
Definition
Events:
1. President Kennedy elected and assassinated
2. race for space
3. woodstock
4. protests of vietnam war
style:
Women:
1. mod style. mini skirts. boots. chanel suit. pillbox hat.empire waist. A-line shape. flared pants.
Men
1. long sideburns. bell bottoms
Term
events and style of 1970's
Definition
events:
1. oil prices sky rocket
2. pres nixon resigns
4. charlie's angels
5. Disco
Style
Women:
1.hot pants. platform shoes. flare legged trousers. tunic worn over pants.designer jeans. layered look
Men:
1. peacock look. fitted waistline. long jacket. flared pants.
Term
style and events of the 1980's
Definition
Events: Diana Marries prince charles, Ronald Reagan President, stock market crash 1987, Berlin wall came down, MTV, AIDS, Madonna, Michael Jackson, pop music, break dance, pop, techno, disco
Style:
Ronald Reagan President, stock market crash 1987, Berlin wall came down, MTV, AIDS, Madonna, Michael Jackson, pop music, break dance, pop, techno, disco
Style:
Ronald Reagan President, stock market crash 1987, Berlin wall came down, MTV, AIDS, Madonna, Michael Jackson, pop music, break dance, pop, techno, disco
Style:
WOmen: mini skirts, warm up suits, sneakers
Men: business suits, narrower ties, straighter trousers.
Term
style and events of the 90's
Definition
Events: Collapse of Soviet Union, Gulf War, Macy’s bankrupt, Clinton’s in White House, Disney movies, OJ Simpson trial, Kurt Cobain commits suicide. grunge, hip-hop, rap, break dance.
Style:
women:grunge. baggy pants and t shirts.retro. pointed pumps. sheath dresses.
Men: dress down in khaki's and colored shirts with no tie
Term
What is fashion and where does it come from?
Definition
fashion is invented by many sources and can evolve from past fashions or be determined by external forces such as economy, history, lifestyle
Term
Consumer adoption process:
Definition
1. innovators
2. early adopters
3.early majority
4. late majority
5. laggards
Term
what is an innovator in the CAP?
Definition
adopt an innovation first, being the first to display a new product and bring attention to it.
Term
what is an early majority in the CAP?
Definition
adopt when the style is becoming a well-accepted fashion and is widely available.
Term
what is a late majority in the CAP?
Definition
adopt when the style is becoming a well-accepted fashion and is widely available.
Term
what is a fashion laggard in the CAP?
Definition
first adopt when fashion is in decline
Term
Dfine Ritual
Definition
A set of multiple, symbolic behaviors that occur in a fixed sequence that tend to be repeated periodically.
Term
define rites of passage:
Definition
certain types of rituals that involve passage from one role to another.
Term
fashion
Definition
a style accepted by the majority of a group at a given time
Term
define style
Definition
characteristic appearance of the garment or accessory that distinguish it from another. Styles do not change, although their acceptance by customers change periodically.
Term
define high fashion
Definition
styles that are very exaggerated and high priced
Term
haute couture
Definition
fine dress making. custom made, very limited market
Term
ready to wear
Definition
mass produced rather than custom made
Term
bridge line
Definition
a designer's secondary line. less expensive, interpretations of primary line
Term
better goods:
Definition
lower price than bridge, but still good quality
Term
Moderate goods
Definition
lower in price and quality than better. sold at department stores
Term
budget goods
Definition
lower in price and quality than moderate goods. sold at discount stores.
Term
adaptation
Definition
a garment that uses the main elements of another's design with variations such as fabric and trim
Term
collection/line
Definition
a designer's offering for that season
Term
sample sale
Definition
a clearance of item that did not make it into production
Term
silhouette
Definition
5 basic shapes:
1. tubular/rectangular
2. bell shape
3. A line
4. wedge or triangle
5. hourglass
Term
Define HISTORICAL CONTINUITY
Definition
fashion does not change dramatically; it follows a trend.
Term
cultural gate keepers
Definition
opinion leaders: help filter vast amounts of info and products available to consumers i.e. magazine editors
Term
creolization
Definition
Occurs when foreign influences are absorbed and integrated w/ local meanings. Sometimes results in bizarre permutations of products and services when they are modified to be compatible with local customs.
Term
GI generation
Definition
save for a rainy day
national brands
Term
silent generation
Definition
influenced by global unrest
want quality for price. lasting clothes, but not overpriced
SAve a lot, spend a little
Term
woodstock baby boomers
Definition
Spend borrow Spend
want good life like predecessors
Term
Zoomers
Definition
brands matter, want hipper attitude
Term
generation X
Definition
SPen? Save?
brand names NOT important
antistatement is fashion statement
Term
generation Y Wired
Definition
money:optomistic and experimental
upcoming information
Term
generation Z
Definition
growing up with computers
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