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        | planning, procuring, controlling, inspecting and delivery of end products from external companies; used to gain competitive advantage, reduce costs; utilizes a wider variety of resources |  | 
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        | "to make"; 90% of US apparel is imported |  | 
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        | manufactured in the country it sells in, but not necessarily by the same company; improved communication and turn around time, lower inspection costs and no import costs; LA is #1 manufacturing city in US, NY #2 |  | 
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 | Definition 
 
        | predominant model for acquisition of apparel production; lower costs, expertise and or availability + labor |  | 
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        | means to broaden the brand without making a new product; Trademark program |  | 
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        | the contractor owns and is responsible until the goods are loaded onto the truck |  | 
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        | Total Production Costs + Shipping Costs and Duty Charges |  | 
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        | Term 
 
        | CMT (Cost, Make and Trim) |  | Definition 
 
        | encompasses agreements that utilize domestic or offshore contractors for cutting, manufacturing and finishing of garments that the product developer provides the designs, patterns and fabric for |  | 
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 | Definition 
 
        | design , source fabric, pattern, cut, sew and package; contractor pays for everything until the merchandise is on a truck |  | 
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        | 27 countries operate as one internal market; retain political autonomy, common currency (except Britain), and free trade amongst member and countries that cannot economically afford to be members; contributes trends, high-priced stuff, woolen goods and a small amount of imports to the US |  | 
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        | 1. Right product 2. Right quantity 3. Right time 4. Right price |  | 
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        | Began with lower class, acceptable in late 1800's, demanded and met by middle class, now RTW, etc. |  | 
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        | fiber, yarn, fabric and some findings producers; converters dye, print and finish cloth |  | 
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 | Definition 
 
        | agents of the apparel manufacturing companies; sell the finished goods to retailers; sales rep sell the finished good |  | 
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        | seel to consumer, traditional retailers, manufacturing retailer, NRF |  | 
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        | One company owns all processes involved in creating the finished product from farm to store |  | 
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        | exclusive brand within a store (Worthington - JC Penney); destination private labels create store loyalty |  | 
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        | to buy goods from another country |  | 
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 | Definition 
 
        | to sell goods to another country |  | 
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        | more imports than exports |  | 
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        | limit set on the volume of product types allowed to be imported without fine |  | 
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        | prohibition of importing a product or from a particular location |  | 
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        | Term 
 
        | WTO (World Trade Organization) |  | Definition 
 
        | replaced GATT and ATC (Agreement on Textiles and Clothing); promotion of free trade through reduction of tariff trade barriers |  | 
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        | Term 
 
        | North American Free Trade Agreement |  | Definition 
 
        | regional; eliminated tariffs and quotas |  | 
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        | sign or symbol that distinguishes a manufacturer; registered with US patent office; copy-left-free public use |  | 
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        | is distictive to a business or product |  | 
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        | copies of legitimate brands; illegal |  | 
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        | copy or near copy of a design under a different brand name |  | 
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        | substance that adds color by absorption |  | 
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        | adds color to material on the surface; not absorbed |  | 
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        | Term 
 
        | Physical features of fabric |  | Definition 
 
        | determine perfomance, influence aesthetics, utility durability and costs, help evaluate quality; includes fiber, yarn, fabric structure, dyes, prints and finishes |  | 
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        | regenerated cellulosics, synthetics and misc. |  | 
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        | aesthetic, functional, appearance retention |  | 
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        | carded or combed, woolen or worsted |  | 
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        | S-twist/Z-twist; average twist = 20-30 tpi high twist = 35-40 tpi |  | 
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        | solution dye fiber/stock dye yarn dye piece dye cross dye union dye product dye |  | 
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        | Denier (US), Tex (international) |  | 
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        | drapability/flexibility compressability extensibility resilience density surface contour |  | 
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        | Term 
 
        | Functional performance of fabric |  | Definition 
 
        | diemsional stability appearance retention comfort ease of care saety strength abrasion resistance resistance to degradation |  | 
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        | Term 
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        | based on body measurements |  | 
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        | based on garment measurements |  | 
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 | Definition 
 
        | ease- difference between body measurements and garment line- how the structural lines of the garment fit to the body grain- direction of threads set- a smooth fit with no unwanted wrinkles |  | 
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        | provide framework for quality decisions |  | 
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        | very detailed and specific; exact instructions |  | 
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        | power stretch- elongates more than 30% (swimsuits) comfort stretch- elongates less than 30% (t-shirts) elastomeric- at least 400% stretch spandex- stretches twice as well as rubber tailored clothing: 15-20% spectator sportswear- 20-35% active sportswear- 30-50% |  | 
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        | Term 
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        | bust=hips, waist 9"+ smaller than bust/hips, 8%   |  | 
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        | bust=hips, waist 9"- smaller than bust/hips, 46% |  | 
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        | hips>bust by 2", waist is less than 9" smaller than bust, 21% |  | 
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        | bust>hips by 3"+, waist smaller by 9"+, 13% |  | 
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        | start with the average size and build smaller and larger |  | 
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        | cannot be agreed upon, doesn't exist |  | 
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        | naional sizing survey, 3D body scan |  | 
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        | making the numbers smaller |  | 
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        | sizes differ with each store |  | 
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        | petite - 5'4" or less tall, women's plus, juniors |  | 
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