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| These are double lines across the pattern that indicate the best location on a particular pattern to fold it up to shorten it or cut across it and spread it apart to lengthen it. |
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| The bias relates to the grain of the fabric. The bias is the 45 degree angle between the lengthwise grain and the crosswise grain of the fabric. The bias has much more "give" and stretches a bit so that the fabric drapes gracefully. |
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| The grain that runs along perpendicular to the selvage. On woven fabrics this may "give" more than the lengthwise grain. On most knit fabrics, most of the stretch is on the crosswise grain. |
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Description: Heavy solid line with arrows at each end
Usage: Place pattern on fabric with arrow parallel to selvage |
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Description: Long bracket with arrows at each end or "place on fold" instructions.
Usage: This symbol indicates that a pattern piece must be placed on the fold. Cutting is done only on the sides of the fabric that is not the fold. The piece will then open out to a complete piece without having to seam the pieces together. |
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Description: Dots are circles, squares, or triangles that are usually found along seamlines or darts.
Usage: They serve as points to match pattern pieces together. It is important to mark these using a pin, and marking pencil or tailor tuck. They will help match critical parts of the garment when you sew. |
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| Fabric is generally folded in half lengthwise with right sides facing each other when it is used for pattern layout. In this manner, 2 pieces are cut at the same giving mirror images for the right and left side of the garment. |
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Description: Heavy solid line with arrows at each end.
Usage: Place pattern on fabric with arrow parallel to selvage. |
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| Interfacing is an inner layer of fabric (often a fusible web) that gives support and stability to areas of the garment such as cuff, collars, and plackets |
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| This is a lightweight fabric layer that is used on the inside of the garment, pocket or purse. Its purpose varies, but often adds stability, usually serves as a facing, and always adds a nice clean finish to the inside. |
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| Fabrics that have a "hairy" or furry texture are said to have a nap. Just like when you vaccumm a carpet, the fibers bend one way and then the other. Fabrics like corduroy and velvet do the same thing. It is important on a pattern layout to make sure that all the pattern pieces are going the same direction. Light reflects differently when the fibers are brushed one way versus the other. |
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Nap
** This purple fabric is velvet |
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Description: 1) Diamond shapes along cutting line, used for matching seams. Numbered in order in which seams are joined.
2) Notches are triangular and come in in single, double, or triple sets. They can be cut outward or simply sniped 1/4" into the seam allowance.
3) A single point means that you are working with front pieces, and a double point means that you are working on the back.
Usage: Notches are used to line up two or more pieces of fabric that you will be joining together. |
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| One way designs on fabric occur when the fabric's print can only be held one direction so that it is right side up. For example, little duckies all in a line. It is important to lay the pattern pieces going the same direction just like a nap. |
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| Just like a nap, the fibers on pile fabrics reflect the light differently when they are brushed one way versus the other |
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| This is a means of transferring dots and other special markings from pattern pieces onto the fabric. Simply place a dressmaker pin through the marking and then use a fabric marker or pencil to mark the fabric where the pin came through. |
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| Fabrics with vertical and horizontal lines tht can be very tricky to work with. They can be even -- having all lines having the same spacing, or uneven, meaning that the lines are not spaced exactly apart or the lines have different widths. |
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| This is a simple nip approximatly 1/4" into the seam allowance to mark notches, dots, and other markings. This is common in the garment industry. Experienced sewers who know their patterns will use a quick mark because it is efficient. They recognize these markings by referring to the pattern piece to know if it is a dot, notch or other mark. |
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| This is the amount of fabric allowed along the perimeter of a pattern piece for the seam. Most patterns allow for a 5/8" seam unless a different size is marked. |
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Seam in sewing
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refers to a joint in a line. It is a reference to a line of stitches which serve the purpose of holding together two or more pieces of fabric
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. A seam is sewed with the help of threads that are interwoven with different pieces of cloth. A seam is thus found at the edges of the clothes
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sewn together. It is the basics of sewing. Every fabric has a seam. |
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These are the finished (will not unravel) edges of the fabric where it has come off from the loom. On a print fabric the selvage edges are often still white.
The lengthwise grain goes along the selvage edge. |
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| When pattern pieces are too wide to fit on fabric that has been folded in half the pieces are cut from a single thickness of fabric. You will know this on the pattern layout because only selvage edges will be indicated -- no fold. |
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| This is the line symbol with an arrow at either end on pattern pieces that you will use for pattern placement. In order to make sure that your garments will hang smoothly, the straight of grain arrow must be parallel or perpendicular to the selvage edge of the fabric when you cut out the pattern piece. |
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Description: Outermost line on pattern, often accompanied by scissor icon. Solid line on single-sized patterns. Line pattern different for each size included on multisized patterns.
Usage: Cut on this line. When more than one size is printed on one piece, use the cutting line for size that fits best.
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