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Chemical texture services
chapter 18
55
Cosmetology
11th Grade
10/21/2011

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Term
Acid- Balanced waves
Definition
not rue acid waves. as they have a pH between 7.8 and 8.2 and use glyceryl monthioglycolate as the primary reducing agent. Acid- balances waves process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a hair dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves.
Term
Alkaline Waves(or cold waves)
Definition
have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6 use ammonuim thioglycolate as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature
Term
Amino Acids
Definition
Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and nitrogen.
Term
Ammonic- free waves
Definition
perms se alkanolamines instead of ammonia and are popular because of their low odor
Term
Ammonium thioglycolate
Definition
actice ingredient or reducing afent in alkaline permanents
Term
Base cream or protective base cream
Definition
oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing.
Term
Base Control
Definition
position of the rod in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.
Term
Base direction
Definition
angle at which the rod is positioned on the head( horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped
Term
Base placement
Definition
the position of the rod in relation to its base section, and is determined bt the angle at which the hair is wrapped. Rods can be wrapped on base, half off base, or off base
Term
Base relaxers
Definition
relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer
Term
Base sections
Definition
subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is normally places on each base section
Term
Basic perm wrap
Definition
perm wrap in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-size bases; all base sections are horizontal, with the same length and width as the perm rod
Term
Bookend wrap
Definition
perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope
Term
Bricklay perm wrap
Definition
perm wrap similar to actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other by row.
Term
Chemical hair relaxing
Definition
rearranged the structure of curly hair into straighter or smoother form
Term
Chemical texture services
Definition
hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of the hair
Term
Concave rods
Definition
perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increaes to a larger diameter on the ends
Term
Cortex
Definition
Middle layer of the hair, located directly beneath the cuticle layer, the cortex is responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair
Term
croquignole perms
Definition
perms in which the hair strands are wrapped at an angle perpendicular to the perm rod, in overlapping concentric layers
Term
curvature perm wrap
Definition
perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head
Term
disulfide bonds
Definition
chemical side bonds that are formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together. Disulfide bonds can only be broken by chemicals and cannot be broken by heat or water.
Term
double flat wrap
Definition
perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under, and one is placed over, the strand of hair being wrapped.
Term
double-rod (piggyback) technique
Definition
perm wrap in which two rods are used for one strand od hair, one on top of the other
Term
endothermic waves
Definition
perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer
Term
end papers or end wraps
Definition
absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods
Term
exothermic waves
Definition
creates an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing
Term
glyceryl monothioglycolate
Definition
main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions
Term
half-off base placement
Definition
base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees(perpendicular) to its base section and the rod is positioned half off its base section
Term
hydrogen bonds
Definition
weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by water, as in wet setting, or heat, as in thermal styling, and re-dorm as the hiar dries or cools
Term
hydroxide neutralization
Definition
the neutralization of hydroxide relaxers is an acid alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes(deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by the hydroxide relaxers and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp. Hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide bonds
Term
hydroxide relaxers
Definition
very strong alkalis with a pH over 13, the hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers
Term
lanthionzation
Definition
process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; breaks the hair's disulfide bonds during processing and converts them to lanthionine bonds when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair
Term
loop or circle rod
Definition
tool that is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod
Term
low-pH waves
Definition
perms that work at a low pH, and use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternatice to ammonium thioglycolate
Term
Medulla
Definition
inntermost layer of the hiar and is often called the pith or core of the hair
Term
Metal hydroxide relaxers
Definition
ionic compunds formed by a metal (sodium, potassium, or lithium) combined with oxygen and hydrogen
Term
No base relaxers
Definition
relaxers that do not require application of the protective base cream
Term
normalizing lotions
Definition
conditioners that restore the hairs natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer and prior to shampooing
Term
off-base placement
Definition
base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45 degree angle below perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned completely off its base section
Term
on base placement
Definition
base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45 degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section and the rod is positioned on its base section
Term
peptide bonds or end bonds
Definition
chemical bonds that join amino acids together by peptide bonds
Term
Polypeptide chains
Definition
long chains of amino acids joined together to form polyeptde chains
Term
salt bonds
Definition
relatively weak physical side bonds that are reult of an attraction betwwen opposite electrical charges; easliy broken by changes in pH, as in permamnent waving, and reform when pH returns to normal
Term
side bonds
Definition
disulfide salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross link polypeptide chains together. Side bonds are responsible for the elasticity and incredible strength of the hair
Term
Single Flat wrap
Definition
perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped
Term
Soft bender rods
Definition
tool about 12 inches long with a uniform diamter along the entire length, these soft foam rods have a stiff wire inside that permits them to be bent into almost any shape
Term
Soft curl permanent
Definition
combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped in large rods to make existing curl larger and looser
Term
Spiral perm wrap
Definition
hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hiar to spiral along the length of the rod, similar to the grip on a tennis racket.
Term
straight rods
Definition
perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area
Term
thioglycolic acid
Definition
colorless liquid with a strong unpleasant odor, provides the hydrogen that causes the reduction reaction on permanent waving solution
Term
thio neutralization
Definition
stops action of a permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair in its new curly form
Term
thio relaxers
Definition
use the same ammonium thioglycolate that is used in permamnent waving but at a higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10)
Term
thio-free waves
Definition
perm that uses cysteamine or mercaptamine instead of ammonuium thioglycolate as the primary reducing agent
Term
true acid waves
Definition
have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 require heat to process(endothermic), process more slowly than alkaline waves, and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves
Term
weave technique
Definition
wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas
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