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Chemical Texture Services
Services dealing with chemicals
38
Cosmetology
11th Grade
10/21/2011

Additional Cosmetology Flashcards

 


 

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Term
Acid-Balanced waves
Definition
Not true acid waves , as they have a pH between 7.8 and 8.2 and use glyceryl monthioglycolate (GMTG)as the primary reducing agent . Acid - balanced waves process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a hair dryer , process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves.
Term
Alkaline Waves ( cold waves )
Definition
Have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent , and process at room temperature.
Term
Amino Acids
Definition
Compounds made up of carbon,oxygen,hydrogen, and nitrogen.
Term
Ammonia - free waves
Definition
Perms use alkanolamines instead of ammonia and are popular because of their low odor.
Term
Ammonium Thioglycolate
Definition
Active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.
Term
Base cream or protective base cream
Definition
Oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing.
Term
Base Control
Definition
Position of the rod in relation to its base section , determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.
Term
Base Direction
Definition
Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head (horizontally,vertically,or diagonally; ALSO the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped.
Term
Base Placement
Definition
The position of the rod in relation to its base section, and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.Rods can be wrapped on base , half off base , or off base.
Term
Base Relaxers
Definition
Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer
Term
Base Sections
Definition
subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping ; one rod is normally placed on each base section.
Term
Basic Perm Wrap
Definition
Perm wrap in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal - size bases; all base sections are horizontal , with hte same length and width as the perm rod.
Term
Bookend Wrap
Definition
Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope.
Term
Bricklay perm wrap
Definition
Perm wrap similar to acutal technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row.
Term
Chemical hair relaxing
Definition
Reaaranges the structure of curly hair into a straightner or smoother form.
Term
Chemical Texture service
Definition
Hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of the hair.
Term
Concave rods
Definition
Perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends.
Term
Cortex
Definition
Middle layer of the hair, located directly beneath the cuticle layer.The cortex is responsible for the incrdible strength and elasticity of human hair.
Term
Croquignole Perms
Definition
Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped at an angle perpendicular to the perm rod, in overlapping concentric layers.
Term
Curvature Perm Wrap
Definition
Perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head.
Term
Disulfide bonds
Definition
chemical side bonds that are formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together.Disulfide bonds can only be broken by chemicals and cannot be broken by heat or water.
Term
Double flat wrap
Definition
Perm wrap in which the hair strands are wrapped at an angle perpendicualr to the perm rod, in overlapping concentric layers.
Term
double rod ( piggy back ) technique
Definition
perm wrap in which two rods are used for one strand of hair, one on top of the hair.
Term
Endothermic waves
Definition
perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a convectional hood type hair dryer
Term
end papers
Definition
absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods.
Term
exothermic waves
Definition
creates an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up the process.
Term
Glyceryl Monothiglycolate
Definition
main active ingredient in true acis and acid balanced waving lotion.
Term
Half off-base placement
Definition
base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees ( perpendicular) to its base section and the rod is positioned half off its base section.
Term
Hydrogen Bonds
Definition
Weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite eletrical charges; easily broken by water , as in wet setting , or heat , as in thermal styling , and re- form as the hair dries or cools .
Term
Hydroxide Neutralization
Definition
The beutralization of hydroxide relaxers is an acid-alkali reaction that neutralizes (deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by the hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp.Hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide bonds.
Term
Hydroxide Relaxers
Definition
Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13. The hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers.
Term
Lanthionization
Definition
Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently starighten hair; breaks the hairs disulfide bonds during processing and converts them to lanthionine bonds when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair.
Term
Loop or circle rods
Definition
tool that is usually about 12 inches with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod.
Term
Low - pH waves
Definition
Perms that work at a low pH, and use sulfates , sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate.
Term
Medulla
Definition
Innermost layer of the hair and is often called the pith or core of the hair.
Term
Metal Hydroxide Relaxers
Definition
Ionic compounds formed by a metal (sodium,potassium,or litium) combined with oxygen and hydrogen.
Term
No base relaxers
Definition
Relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream.
Term
Normalizing Lotions
Definition
Conditioners that restore the hairs natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer and prior to shampooing .
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