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chapter 20
2012 Milady chapter 20 Perms & Relaxers
29
Cosmetology
Not Applicable
04/21/2013

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Term
acide-balanced waves
Definition
permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH; because of their higher pH ,they process at room temp, do not require the added heat of a hair dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves
Term
alkaline waves
Definition
Also know as COLD WAVES; have a pH between 9.0-9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as a reducing agent, and process at room temp without the addition of heat
Term
amino acids
Definition
Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfer
Term
ammonia-free waves
Definition
Perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use
Term
ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)
Definition
Active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents
Term
base control
Definition
Position of the tool in relation to its section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped
Term
base cream
Definition
Also know as protective base cream; oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing
Term
base direction
Definition
Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped
Term
base placement
Definition
Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section; base placement is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped
Term
base relaxers
Definition
Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer
Term
base sections
Definition
Subsections of panels into which hair is divided for permwrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section
Term
basic permanent wrap
Definition
Also known as straight set wrap; perm wrappping pattern in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-sized bases; all the base sections are horizontal, and are the same length and width as the perm rod
Term
bookend wrap
Definition
Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope
Term
bricklay permanent wrap
Definition
Perm wrap similar to actual technique of laying bricks; base sections are offset from each other row by row, to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair
Term
chemical hair relaxing
Definition
A process or service that rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form
Term
chemical texture services
Definition
Hair services that cause a chemical change that alters the natural wave pattern of the hair
Term
concave rods
Definition
Perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends
Term
croquignole perm wrap
Definition
Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers
Term
curvature permanent wrap
Definition
Perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head
Term
double flat wrap
Definition
Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped
Term
double-rod wrap
Definition
Also known as piggyback wrap; a wrap technique whereby extra-long hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft, and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair strand in the same direction
Term
end paper
Definition
Also known as end wraps; absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods
Term
endothermic waves
Definition
Perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer
Term
exothermic waves
Definition
Create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing
Term
glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)
Definition
Main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions
Term
Half off-base placement
Definition
Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned half off its base section
Term
hydroxide neutralization
Definition
An acid -alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes (deactivated) the alkaline residues left in the hair by a hydroxide relaxere and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp; hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide bonds
Term
hydroxide relaxers
Definition
Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13; the hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers
Term
keratin proteins
Definition
Long, coiled polypeptide chains
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