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| Chemical Hair Texture services |
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Definition
| Gives you the abiliity to permanently change the hair's natural wave pattern. |
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Term
| Chemical texture services include these 3 things. |
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Definition
Permanent waving; adding wave or curl to the hair.
Relaxing; Removing curl, leaving it smooth and wave-free.
Curl Re-forming; (soft curl permanents) Loosening overly curly hair, such as turning curls into loose curls or waves. |
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Definition
| Tough exterior layer of hair. It surround the inner layers, and protects the hair from damage. |
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Definition
| Middle layer of hair, located directly beneath the cuticle layer. It is responsibly for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair. |
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| Innermost layer of hair and is often called the pith or core of the hair. Does not play a role in chemical service and may be missing in fine hair. |
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| acidity and alkalinity of a substance measuring the quanity of hydrogen ions it contains. |
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| Chemical texturizers raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state in order to |
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Definition
| soften and swell the ahir shaft. |
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Term
| Keratin proteins are made of long chains of |
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Definition
| amino acids linked together end to end like beads. The chemical bond the link amino acids together are called peptide bonds or end bonds. These chains of amino acids linked by peptide bonds are called polypeptides. |
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Definition
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| Amino acids are the building blocks of |
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Definition
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| Amino acids are compounds made up of |
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Definition
| carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and nitrogen. |
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Term
| Peptide bonds or end bonds are |
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Definition
| linked amino acids together end to end in long chains like bead to form a polypeptide bonds or end bonds. |
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Term
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Definition
| long chains of amino acids linked together by peptide bonds or end bonds. |
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Term
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Definition
| long, coiled polypeptide chains. |
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Term
| Side bond (disulfide, salt, and hydeogen bonds) cross-link |
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Definition
| polypeptide chains together |
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Definition
| strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together. They can only be chemically broken. The account for 1/3 of the hairs overall strength. |
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Definition
| Are weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between neg. and pos. electrical charges. They are easily broken by change in pH, and re-form when the pH is returned to normal. They account for 1/3 of the hair's strength. |
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Definition
| Are weak physical side bonds that are also the result of an attraction between opposite electical charges. They are easily broken by water (wet settings), or heat (themal styling), and re-form as the ahir dries or cools. They also account for 1/3 of the hair's total strength. Physical changes. |
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Term
| In a client consultation ask open-ended questions and |
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Definition
| find out what type of coloring product (if any) is currently being used. This is essential since certain types of haircolor agents especially those containing metallic salts should not be used on permed hair. |
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Term
| Metallic salts leave a coating on the hair that my cause |
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Definition
| uneven curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage. They are more commonly found in men's haircolors that are sold for home use. Perform a metallic salt test if you suspect they've been used. |
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Term
| In a scalp analysis look for |
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Definition
| cuts, scratches, open sores, redness, or flaking. Don't proceed with service if any are present. |
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Term
| When performing a hair analysis look for |
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Definition
| texture, density, porosity, elasticity and growth direction. |
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Term
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Definition
| the diameter of a single strand of hair and is classified as coarse, medium, or fine. It differs from strand to strand on the sames person's head. It is determined by feeling a single dry strand between the fingers from the top, sides, and back of head. |
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Term
| Coarse hair texture usually required |
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Definition
| more processing that med. or fine hair. and is usually more resistant to that processing. It requires a thorough and careful chemical application to ensure success. |
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Definition
| Is the most common hair texture. |
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| Fine hair is more fragile, easier to process and |
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Definition
| more susceptible to damage from a chemical service. Treating it gently during the entire chemical process is essential for healthy beautful results. |
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Term
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Definition
| ability of the hair to absorb moisture. The degree of it is directly related to the condition of the cuticle layer. Classified as resistant, normal, or porous. |
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Definition
| a tight, compact cuticle layer that resists penetration. Requires a more alkaline texturizer. |
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| Hair with normal porosity |
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Definition
| is neither resistant nor overly porous. |
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Definition
| has a raised cuticle layer that easily absorbs moisture and chemicals. |
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Term
| Wet hair with low elasticity does not |
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Definition
| return to its original length when stretched. |
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Term
| Perment waving is a two step process |
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Definition
| first is the pysical change and second is the chemical change. |
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| Concave rods are the most common |
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Definition
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Definition
| soften and swells the hair. |
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| Shrinks and hardens hair. |
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| equal in diameter and produces a uniform curl. |
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Definition
| are aborbent papers used to conrtol the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on the perm rods. |
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Definition
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Definition
| uses one paper on top of the strand being wrapped. |
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| All perms begin with sections hair into |
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Definition
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| Each panel is further divided into subsections called |
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Definition
| Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. Can be on base, 1/2 off base, or off base. |
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Term
| On base placement the hair is wrapped |
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Definition
| 45 degrees beyond perpendicular. |
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Term
| Half off-base placement refers to wrapping the hair |
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Definition
| at a 90 degree angle or straight out from the center of the section. It minimizes stress and tension on the hair. |
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Term
| Off-base placement refers to wrapping the hair |
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Definition
| at 45 degrees below the center of the base section. Creates the least volume and results in a curl pattern that begins farthest away from the scalp. |
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Definition
| the angle which the rod is poistioned on the head: horizontally, vertically, or diagonally. It also refers to the direction the hair is wrapped. |
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Term
| Croquingnole perms are wrapped from |
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Definition
| the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers. |
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Term
| Spiral perm wrap the hair is wrapped |
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Definition
| at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod. |
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Definition
| Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through chemical reaction called this. |
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Term
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Definition
| colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasent odor, is the most common reducing agent. |
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Term
| Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) |
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Definition
| The addition of ammonia to thio acid produces a new chemical called this. It is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents. |
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Term
| Alkaline waves or cold waves. |
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Definition
| The first of these were developed in 1941. Most alkaline waves have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6 |
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Term
| Glyceryl monothioglycolate or GMTG |
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Definition
| is an acid with a low pH. Although this is the primary reducing agent in all acid waves, it may not be the only reducing agent. |
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Term
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Definition
| process more quickly and produces firmer curls than true acid waves. |
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Definition
| create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the solution and speeds up the processing. |
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Term
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Definition
| are activated by an outside heat source. |
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Term
| Ammonia free waves used an ingredient that |
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Definition
| does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so very little odor is associated with their use. |
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Term
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Definition
| use an ingredient other than ATG as the primary reducing agent. The most common rely on cysteamine or mercaptamine. |
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Term
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Definition
| The use of sulfates, sulfites and bisulfites present an alternative to ATG know as |
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Term
| The amount of processing should be determined by |
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Definition
| the strength of the solution, and not necessarily how long the perm processes. |
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Term
| In permanent waving most of the processing takes place |
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Definition
| as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first 5-10 minutes. |
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Term
| Over processing usually happens in the |
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Definition
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Term
| If too many disulfide bonds are broken |
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Definition
| the ahir may not have enough strength left to hold the desired curl. |
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Term
| Under processed hair usually has |
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Definition
| very weal curl, but it may also be straight. Straighter at top than bottom. |
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Term
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Definition
| stops the action of the waving solution and rebuilds the hair into its new curly form. |
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Term
| Neutralization performs two important functions. |
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Definition
| any waving solution that remains on the hair is deactivated and disulfide bonds that were broken are rebuilt. |
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Term
| Proper rinsing the hair the after permanent has processed |
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Definition
| removes any remaining perm solution prior to applying the neutralizer. To avoid scalp irritation and unwanted lighting or hair color, always rinse the solution from the hair for at least 5 minutes and then blot with towels to remove as much moisture as possible. Excess water left in the hair reduceds the effectiveness of the neutralizer. |
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Term
| Neutralization rebuilds the disulfide bonds by removing "extra" what |
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Definition
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Definition
| The position of the tool in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. |
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Definition
| This uses zigzag partings to divide base areas. |
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Term
| Double rod technique is also called a |
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
| help you determine how your client's hair will react to a perm. Wrap one rod in ea. different area of the head. Top, side and nape. |
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Term
| Male clients get perms for |
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Definition
| added texture, fullness, style, and low maintenance |
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