Term
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Definition
| Not true acid waves; as they have a pH between 7.8 and 8.2 and use glyceryl monthioglycolate (GMTG) as the primary reducing agent. Acid-balanced waves process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a hair dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves. |
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Term
| Alkaline Waves (Or Cold Waves) |
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Definition
| Have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature. |
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Term
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Definition
| Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and nitrogen. |
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Term
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Definition
| Perms use alkanolamines instead of ammonia, and are popular because of their low odor. |
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Term
| Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG) |
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Definition
| Active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents. |
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Term
| Base Cream or Protective Base Cream |
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Definition
| Oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing. |
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Term
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Definition
| Position of the rod in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. |
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Term
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Definition
| Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped. |
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Term
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Definition
| The position of the rod in relation to its base section, and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. Rods can be wrapped on base, half off base, or off base. |
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Term
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Definition
| Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer. |
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Term
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Definition
| Subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section. |
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Term
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Definition
| Perm wrap in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-size bases; all base sections are horizontal, with the same length and width as the perm rod. |
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Term
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Definition
| Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair like an envelope. |
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Term
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Definition
| Perm wrap similar to actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row. |
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Term
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Definition
| Rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form. |
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Term
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Definition
| Perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends. |
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Term
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Definition
| Middle layer of the hair, located directly beneath the cuticle layer. The cortex is responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair. |
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Term
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Definition
| Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped at an angle perpendicular to the perm rod, in overlapping concentric layers. |
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Term
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Definition
| Perm wrap in which partings and basses radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head |
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Term
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Definition
| Chemical side bonds that are formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together. Disulfide bonds can only be broken by chemicals and cannot be broken by heat or water. |
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Term
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Definition
| Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under, and one is placed over, the strand of hair being wrapped. |
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Term
| Double-Rod (Piggyback) Technique |
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Definition
| Perm wrap in which two rods are used for one strand of hair, one on top of the other. |
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Term
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Definition
| Perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer. |
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Term
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Definition
| Absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods. |
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Term
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Definition
| Creates an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing. |
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Term
| Glyceryl Monothioglycolate (GTMG) |
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Definition
| Main active ingredient in true acid-balanced waving lotions. |
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Term
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Definition
| Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle 90 degrees (perpendicular) to its base section and the rod is positioned half off its base section. |
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Term
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Definition
| Weak physical bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by water, as in wet setting, or heat, as in thermal styling, and re-form as the hair dries or cools. |
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Term
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Definition
| The neutralization of hydroxide relaxers is an acid-alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes (deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by the hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp. Hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide bonds. |
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Term
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Definition
| Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13. The hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers. |
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Term
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Definition
| Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten; breaks the hair's disulfide bonds during processing and converts them to lanthionine bonds when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair. |
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Term
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Definition
| Tool that is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. |
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Term
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Definition
| Perms that work at a low pH, and use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate. |
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Term
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Definition
| Innermostlayer of the hair and is often called the pith or core of the hair. |
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Term
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Definition
| Ionic compounds formed by metal (sodium, potassium, or lithium) combined with oxygen and hydrogen. |
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Term
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Definition
| Relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream. |
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Term
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Definition
| Conditioners that restore the hair's natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer and prior to shampooing. |
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Term
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Definition
| Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45-degree angle below perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned completely off its base section. |
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Term
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Definition
| Base control in which the hair is wrapped at 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section and the rod is positioned on its base section. |
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Term
| Peptide Bonds or End Bonds |
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Definition
| Chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains. |
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Term
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Definition
| Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds. |
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Term
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Definition
| Relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by changes in pH, as in permanent waving, and re-form when the pH returns to normal. |
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Term
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Definition
| Disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together. Side bonds are responsible for the elasticity and incredible strength of the hair. |
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Term
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Definition
| Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over top of the strand of hair being wrapped. |
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Term
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Definition
| Tool about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length. These soft foam rods have a stiff wire inside that permits them to to be bent into almost any shape. |
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