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Ch 18. Chemical Texture Services_2
Milady's Standard Cosmetology
64
Cosmetology
Professional
11/23/2010

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Cards

Term
What are the two step of permanent process?
Definition
Phsycal Change & Chemical Change
Term
Physical change caused by what?
Definition
Wrapping the hair on the perm rod
Term
Checmial change caused by what?
Definition
Permanent waving solution and the neutralizer
Term
A perm wrap is essentially a wet set on _________ instead of rollers.
Definition
Perm rods
Term
What is the major difference between a wet set and permanent wave?
Definition
The type of side bonds that are broken
Term
A wet set breaks _____________ bonds.
Definition
Hydrogen
Term
A permanent wave breaks _______________ bonds.
Definition
Disulfide
Term
In permanent waving, what determines the size of the curl?
Definition
Size of the rod
Term
In permanent waving, the size of rod determines what?
Definition
Size of the curl
Term
In permanent waving, what determines the shape and type of curl?
Definition
The shape of the rod and the wrapping method
Term
In permanent waving, the shape of rod and the wrapping method determines what?
Definition
The shape and type of curl
Term
What is the most common type of perm rod?
Definition
Concave rods
Term
Types Rods:
______________ have smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends.
Definition
Concave rods
Term
Types of Rods:
Concave rods produce a tighter curl in the _______, and looser, larger curl on the either side of the strand.
Definition
Center
Term
Types of Rods:
Concave rods produce a _________ curl in the center, and ________ , _________curl on the either side of the strand.
Definition
tighter, looser, larger
Term
Types of Rods:
_________ are equal in diameter along their entire length.
Definition
Straight rods
Term
Types of Rods:
Straight rods are ________ in diameter along their entire length.
Definition
Equal
Term
Types of Rods:
__________ produce a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand.
Definition
Straight rods
Term
Types of Rods:
Straight rods produce a __________________ along the entire width of the strand.
Definition
Uniform curl
Term
Types of Rods:
Soft Bender Rods are usually about _____ " long with a uniform diameter along the entire length.
Definition
12
Term
Types of Rods:
Soft Bender Rods have stiff wire inside that permits them to be _______ into almost any shape.
Definition
Bent
Term
Absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on the perm rods.
Definition
End Paper (End Wrap)
Term
_______________ (one of the end paper technique) provides most control over the hair ends and keep the hair evenly distributed over the entire length of the rod.
Definition
Double flat wrap
Term
To eliminates excess end paper, which end paper technique supposed to use?
Definition
Bookend wrap
Term
Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope.
Definition
Bookend wrap
Term
Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under, and one is placed over, the strand of hair being wrapped.
Definition
Double flat wrap
Term
Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped.
Definition
Single flat wrap
Term
Subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping.
Definition
Base sections
Term
Size of each base section is usually the ___________ and _________ of the rod being used.
Definition
length, width
Term
Position of the rod in relation to its base section.
Definition
Base placement
Term
Base placement is determined by the ________ at which the hair is wrapped.
Definition
angle
Term
On-base placement is wrap the hair _________ degree beyond perpendicular to its base section.
Definition
45
Term
Which base placement will create greater volume at the scalp area?
Definition
On-base placement
Term
Which base placement does wrap the hair at a 90⁰ angle or straight out from the center of the section?
Definition
Half off-base placement
Term
To minimize stress and tension on the hair, which base placement should be used?
Definition
Half off-base placement
Term
Which base placement does wrap the hair at 45⁰ below the center of the base section?
Definition
Off-base placement
Term
To create least amount of volume and begin the curl pattern fartheast away from the scalp, which base placement should be used?
Definition
Off-base placement
Term
Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head.
Definition
Base direction
Term
Directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped.
Definition
Base direction
Term
Wrapping with the natural direction of hair growth -> __________ amount of stress to the hair.
Definition
least
Term
Wrapping Technique:
Wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers and produces a tighter curl at the ends, larger curl at the scalp.
Definition
Croquignole Perm Wrap
Term
Wrapping Technique:
Wrapped at an angle along the length of the rod.
Produces a uniform curl from the scalp to the ends.
Longer, thicker hair will be benefit.
Definition
Spiral Perm Wrap
Term
The reduction reaction in permanent waving is due to the addition of ___________
Definition
Hydrogen
Term
The ________ reaction in permanent waving is due to the addition of hydrogen
Definition
reduction
Term
Most common reducing agent.
Colorless liquid, strong, unpleasant odor
Definition
Thioglycolic Acid
Term
The strength of the permanent waving solution is determined by ___________.
Definition
the concentration of thio
Term
Types of perm wave:
Developed in 1941.
Process at room temperature without addition of heat.
pH 9.0 ~ 9.6
Definition
Alkaline Wave / Cold Wave
Term
Active Ingredient of Alkaline Wave?
Definition
ATG
Term
List 3 types of perm wave that require the heat to process.
Definition
True-acid, Low-pH, Endothermic
Term
Most of the acid waves in today’s salon have pH 7.8~8.2
No heat needed. Room temperature processing.
More quickly, firmer curl than true acid waves.
Definition
Acid Balanced Waves
Term
Create heat through activator.
Create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the solutions and speeds up the processing.
3 Components: Permanent waving solution, Activator, Neutralizer.
Permanent waving solution (contains Thio) + Activator (contains Oxidant, usually hydrogen peroxide) = Rapid release of heat & Increase the solution’s temperature.
Definition
Exthermic Waves
Term
Absorbs heat from its surroundings.
Activated by outside heat source usually conventional hood-type hair dryer.
Definition
Endothermic Waves
Term
Uses an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use.
(Ex) AMP (AminoMethylPropanol) / MEA(MonoEthanolAmine)
Still CAN DAMAGE.
Definition
Ammonia-free Wave
Term
Uses an ingredient other than ATG as the primary reducing agent.
Cysteamine or Mercaptamine are used.
Still thio-compounds.
Definition
Thio-free Wave
Term
Use of sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites instead of ATG.
Very weak & Not firm curl.
Body waves or alternative waves.
Definition
Low-pH Waves
Term
The strength of permanent wave is based on the concentration of _____________.
Definition
its reducing agent
Term
_________________ is determined by the strength of the permanent wave solution.
Definition
The amount of processing
Term
Most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first ______ min.
Definition
5 ~ 10
Term
________________________ is essential to proper processing in all permanent waves, especially on resistant hair.
Definition
Thorough saturation of the hair
Term
A properly processed permanent wave should break & rebuild aprox _______% of the hair’s disulfide bonds.
Definition
50
Term
What is two important functions of permanent waving neutralization?
Definition
Deactivate the solution & Rebuild the disulfide bonds
Term
Most common neutralizer is ________________.
Definition
Hydrogen Peroxide
Term
If the waving lotion is in the client’s eyes, what should you do?
Definition
Rinse thoroughly with cool water.
Term
다음중 perm 을 해서는 안되는 경우가 아닌것은?
A) Prev. allergic reaction experienced clients
B) Skin abrasions of scalp or scalp disease.
C) Prev. in-shop haircolored clients.
D)Excessively Damaged or show signs of breakage.
E) Prev. treated with hydroxide relaxers.
Definition
C) Prev. in-shop haircolored clients.
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