Term
|
Definition
created by the wind
blowing over the surface of the water |
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Term
|
Definition
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Term
|
Definition
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Term
|
Definition
the vertical
distance between a trough
and a crest |
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Term
|
Definition
horizontal distance
between adjacent crests |
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Term
|
Definition
at the Surface and Beneath the
Waves Move in Circular Orbits |
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Term
| As Waves Travel Away From a Storm Center, |
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Definition
They Evolve Into Broad, Rounded Waves
Called Swells |
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Term
| Swells Become Higher As They |
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Definition
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Term
| As waves approach the shore |
|
Definition
the wave base drags on the
shallowing seafloor causing the waves to slow down, increase
in height, and become more closely spaced |
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|
Term
Close to shore, waves evolve
into |
|
Definition
sharp-crested features
called breakers |
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Term
Breakers roll forward into a
foamy |
|
Definition
bubbly surface called surf
along the surf zone |
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|
Term
Waves run up onto the
beach as |
|
Definition
swash; run back
down as backwash |
|
|
Term
As waves
approach the
beach |
|
Definition
the rows
of waves bend
in a direction
more parallel
to the shore
(wave
refraction |
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Term
| End further from shore is moving |
|
Definition
faster and catches up to near-shore
end, causing wave to bend parallel
with coastline |
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|
Term
End nearest
the shore
encounters |
|
Definition
shallow
seafloor first,
slowing down |
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|
Term
| Wave Refraction Causes The Waves To |
|
Definition
Align
Almost Parallel To Beach |
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|
Term
Waves washing up and
back on beach cause |
|
Definition
grains to move downbeach
in zigzag pattern
known as beach drift |
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Term
|
Definition
|
|
Term
Longshore current
also created |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
Depositional features are related to beach
drift and longshore currents: |
|
Definition
Barrier spits
– Bay barriers (baymouth bars)
– Tombolos
– Barrier islands
– Beaches |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
ridge of
sand deposited by beach drift
and longshore currents that
extends out from the beach
into an adjacent bay or cove |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
may eventually extend
to the other side of the bay,
forming a continuous ridge
of sediment called a Bay
Barrier |
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Term
|
Definition
occurs when sediment
deposits connect the shoreline
with an offshore island or sea
stack |
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Term
|
Definition
are the most familiar feature on
a coastline undergoing sediment
deposition: |
|
|
Term
Beaches are the most familiar feature on
a coastline |
|
Definition
Some are stable
– Others cycle seasonally |
|
|
Term
| Quartz sand typically dominate beaches: |
|
Definition
| Quartz survives weathering processes |
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|
Term
| Beach stabilizes a coast by absorbing |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
– Long sandbars not connected to onshore
beaches
– Constructed by longshore currents
– Common along stable continental margins |
|
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Term
|
Definition
High energy wave and current action
– Fairly straight shoreline
– Sand on beach typically clean, well sorted
and rounded with ripples and cross bedding |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
deposits
– Very irregular shoreline
– Tidal marsh mud and peat deposits |
|
|
Term
| Characteristics of Barrier Islands |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
Created by tidal currents that flow
through inlets: |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
deposited landward of the inlet
such as within a lagoon behind a barrier
island during rising tide |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
deposited on seaward side of the
inlet during falling tide |
|
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Term
|
Definition
deposited
during high tide, when Gulf
water flows into lagoon |
|
|
Term
| Ebb tidal delta deposited |
|
Definition
during low tide, when lagoon
water flows out into Gulf |
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|
Term
|
Definition
|
|
Term
Features along coasts undergoing erosion
include: |
|
Definition
– Sea cliffs
– Marine terraces
– Wave-cut platforms
– Sea caves
– Sea arches
– Sea stacks |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
back
while bays and coves
build outward through
addition of sediment |
|
|
Term
Erosion of a headland
leaves |
|
Definition
behind sea
stacks and sea arches |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
common
features of coastlines
undergoing erosion |
|
|
Term
If coast is also undergoing
uplift, then |
|
Definition
wave-built
terrace can be elevated
above sea level to become
wave-cut terrace |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
Emergent coastlines due to tectonic uplift or sealevel
fall can result in significant coastal erosion |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
Submerging coastlines
due to land subsidence
and/or rising sea level
can result in drowned
river valleys called
estuaries |
|
|
Term
| Factors that affect beach erosion include |
|
Definition
– Proximity to sediment-laden rivers
– Degree of tectonic activity/subsidence
– Topography and composition of land
– Wind and weather patterns
– Configurations of coastline and near-shore
areas |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
Jetties
Groins
Breakwaters
Seawalls
geotubes |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| are barriers at entrance to harbor |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| constructed perpendicular to beach |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
are offshore barriers parallel to
beach |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| constructed behind the beach |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
buried at vegetation line behind
beach |
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|
Term
|
Definition
|
|
Term
Various Constructions That Attempt To Control Beach
Drift And Longshore Drift |
|
Definition
| Disrupt Sediment Movement |
|
|
Term
| Galveston Groins Constructed To Keep |
|
Definition
Beach
Sand In Place, But Are Not Very Effective |
|
|
Term
| Seawall Constructed Along Beach to |
|
Definition
| Protect Structures Behind It |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
simple marine animal with a saclike
body called a polyp:
– Secretes calcium carbonate to form a hard, external
skeleton |
|
|
Term
Corals function in a symbiotic relationship with
algae: |
|
Definition
– Algae photosynthesize some food for the coral
– Coral provides some nutrients and shelter for the
algae |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
warm marine water between
latitudes 30o N and 30o S |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
stark white by expelling
nutrient-supplying algae:
– Occurring in Caribbean Sea, Indian Ocean, offshore
Australia, Florida, Texas etc. |
|
|
Term
Why corals eject their symbiotic partner is
unknown: |
|
Definition
– Pollution?
– Disease?
– Changes in salinity?
– Warming of sea-surface?
– Increasing acidity of oceans? |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
About one-third of human-generated carbon
dioxide currently ends up in the oceans |
|
|
Term
Atmospheric CO2 dissolved in seawater forms
carbonic acid, lowering the ocean’s pH: |
|
Definition
– Surface waters of the oceans have already absorbed
enough CO2 since preindustrial times to lower pH by
0.1 pH units
– Current trend of CO2 emissions could result in pH
decrease of at least 0.2 pH units by the year 2100 |
|
|
Term
| Increasing ocean acidity threatens a |
|
Definition
variety of
calcite-secreting organisms including microbes
and corals |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
Wetlands are saturated with water often enough
to support plants that grow in water or very wet
soil |
|
|
Term
| Wetlands occur in a variety of locations: |
|
Definition
– Coastlines
– Bogs (land areas where water table is high)
– Potholes in prairie lands
– Cypress swamps
– River bottom
– Flood plains
– Arctic and subarctic environments that experience
permafrost |
|
|
Term
| Coastal wetlands are of two general types |
|
Definition
Salt marshes
Mangrove swamps |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| Occur along tropical coastlines |
|
|
Term
| Which of the following statements is NOT true regarding surface water in the oceans? |
|
Definition
| Most surface water originates near Greenland and Antarctica and afterwards flows as surface water towards the equator. |
|
|
Term
| Atoll, barrier, and fringing describe different types of __ |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| Why does ocean water have higher salinity in subtropical regions than along the equatorial belt? |
|
Definition
| Evaporation exceeds precipitation in the subtropical region, whereas the reverse occurs along the equator. |
|
|
Term
0 out of 1 points
Which of the following statements about beach drift and longshore currents is TRUE? |
|
Definition
| Beach drift transports sediment in the same direction as does longshore current. |
|
|
Term
| The salinity of oceans vary from 34 to 37 parts per thousand. What is the definition of salinity? |
|
Definition
| Grams of dissolved ions in 1 kilogram of solution. |
|
|
Term
| Which of the following will cause a global rise in sea level? |
|
Definition
| Global warming during an interglacial cycle |
|
|
Term
| Which of the following statements is TRUE? |
|
Definition
| Global sea level has risen and fallen many times throughout Earth history |
|
|
Term
| For incoming ocean waves approaching a coast, which of the following wave forms occur closest to the beach? |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| Which of the following is LEAST LIKELY associated with wetlands |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| Which of the following statements regarding waves approaching a coast is FALSE? |
|
Definition
.
Waves speed up when approaching the beach. |
|
|
Term
Which of the following depositional features along a coast is called a Bay barrier or baymouth bar?
[image] |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
Which of the following structures is a breakwater?
[image] |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
For the following figure, where is the greatest amount of coastal erosion occuring?
[image] |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
The following configuration of the Earth-Moon-Sun system will result in__________.
[image] |
|
Definition
|
|
