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Beaches and Shores 2nd midterm
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38
Archaeology
Undergraduate 4
03/29/2011

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Term
What are drowned river valleys and how do they form?
Definition
Coastel inlet formed by partial submergence of a glacier
Term
What are fjords and how do they form?
Definition
Fjords need a) valley glaciers (high altitude) b) Mountains C)Coastal settings. U shaped, made by glaciers moving.
Term
What are end moraines and outwash plains and how do they relate to cape cod and the islands?
Definition
End morains are ridges of solidated debrit deposited at the snout or end of the glacier.
Outwash plains are formed from melted silt and sediment from glaciers. Cape Cod has both of these.
Term
How do the erosional effects of continental glaciers differ from valley glaciers?
Definition
Continental glaciers strip away sediment cover - loose sediment. Valley Glaciers deepin the valleys - bigger sediment.
Term
Why is the coast of maine rockey with numerous islands but few becahes
Definition
Valley glaciers took away sediment.
Term
Where do barriers occur along the sediment-starved coast of Maine?
Definition
Sediment comes out of rivers, form barrier islands. Poppem, Algonquit, Welles, Old orchard beach.
Term
Wbat are drumlins and what influence do they have on the Boston area?
Definition
Accumilation of glaical sidemint injected into the till. With water creates ripples, raises land. Boston - Bunker Hill, Beacon Hill, Islands.
Term
What does till consist of?
Definition
Anything that can be picked up by glaciers - gravel, silt, mud, clay, boulders.
Term
Why are the compositions of till and outwash sediment so different?
Definition
Till is large and in the ice as outwash sediment is smaller - silt and mud and creates outwash plains.
Term
What is a kettle and how do they form?
Definition
Kettle is a pond. Ice blocks left behind in outwash plains. The ice melts and forms with the water underneath. Filled with sediment.
Term
What are the Milankovitch Cycles and how do they relate to glaciation?
Definition
Perturbations of the Earth's orbit around 3 sun. 3 Types Eccentricity, Obliquity and Precession
Term
Eccentricity
Definition
96,000 Year cycle. Changin earth's orbit from circular to ellyptical. Changes the distance to the sun. Less glaciation when circular more when ellyptical.
Term
Obliquity
Definition
41,000 Year Cycle. Tilt of the Earth's Axis of Rotation from Vertical. Varies 21.8 to 24.4 affects seasonality. Greater the tilt, greater severity of seasons.
Term
Precession
Definition
23,000 year cycle. Chnanges axis of rotation (tilted left or right - wobble). Changes Northern/Southern hemisphere seasons - switch. Now points to Norths Star - Will point to Vega.
Term
Why does New England have stone walls?
Definition
Glaciers stopped on outwash plains - leave good soil for farmers. Moved stones left by glaciers to the outside.
Term
What dominant process do waves control along a beach and at a tidal inlet?
Definition
1) Long shore currents - transports sand along beach shore and to underwater beaches. 2) Barrier Island Formation. 3) Tidal Inlet formation. 4) Type of Backbarrier Setting. 4) Extent of tidal flats and marshes.
Term
What dominant process do tides control along coastlines?
Definition
Tides control spit system - ebb and flood currents. Another tidal inlet current can be connected. DIAGRAM.
Term
How are tidal currents produced?
Definition
Produced due to contriction of tidal waves coming into a bay, tidal inlet or funnel shaped embayement. Ex Bay of Fundy
Term
Tidal Current Diagram
Definition
Draw, should have High tide, low tide, nodal point, tidal range, low slack water, high slack water, bay a, ocean b, time 1-4 (in order from top to bottom 3,2,4,1), flooding tide goes left, ebbing tide goes right
Term
What factors affect wave energy along the coast?
Definition
Width of continental shelf
Storm Type and Frequency
Prevailing winds (west winds blow on shore - larger waves, more sediment transport)
Term
Why are stomr waves important and why are they much more important in terms of sediment transport compared to average wave conditions?
Definition
Storm waves larger so they can carry it longer, 25x stronger. 10 ft waves = 100 Energy.
Term
What four shelf and ocean basinal characteristics influence coastal tidal ranges?
Definition
Shelf Width
Coastline configuration (bays or inlets)
How close you are to the nodal point (cross in bathtub)
How large tidal basin is
Term
What is the tidal range in Boston Harber? If you didn't know what it was, how could you determine it?
Definition
10 ft/3 meters. Make a line from a high water mark, same with low and measure the difference between them.
Term
What is tidal prism?
Definition
Volume of water that goes into an inlet, greater tidal prism means more inlets.
Term
How could you determine the tidal prism of Boston Harbor?
Definition
Determine water area multiply by tidal range
Term
Wave Dominated Shorelines
Definition
Micro tidal (waves under 2 meters). Long Linear barrier Islands. Few Tidal Inlets. Weel developed FTD, Poor ETD. Barriers backed by bays and lagoons. Marshes fringe mainland and barriers. Washovers Common. EX, Texas, Florida, Mississippi, New England, South Baltic Mediterranean.
Term
Wave Dominated Shorelines - Diagram
Definition
Draw
Term
Mixed Energy Shoreline
Definition
Mesotidal (2-4 meter waves). River deltas poorly developed. Barrier islands short/stubbier. More tidal inlets. Flood and Ebb tidal deltas are well formed. Marshes and tidal flats abundant. Tidal creek systems - feed out of marshes. Ex: South Jersey, South Carolina, Gulf of Alaska
Term
Mixed Energy Shorelines Diagram
Definition
Draw
Term
Tide Dominated coasts
Definition
No Barriers, Riverine sand is transported into linear sand shoals, large tidal ranges. Funnel shaped embayments. Onshore is tidal flats and expansive marshes. Ex: Bay of Fundy, Gulf of California, Bay of Bengal, Persian Gulf.
Term
Tide dominated coasts Diagram
Definition
Draw
Term
What is the backbarrier and what different types of backbarrier settings exist along barrier coasts?
Definition
Bay, Lagoon or Marsh. Backbarrier is between land and tidal inlet.
Term
Why do wave dominate barrier coasts have lagoons and bays, whereas the backbarrier of mixed energy coasts consist of marsh and tidal creeks? (2 reasons)
Definition
1) Increase in tidal prism, increase # of tidal lets. More holes to let water in also sediment. 2) More exposure of tidal currents mean less marshes - waves won't let marshes form
Term
Where does sand accumulaiate that eneters funnel shaped, macor tidal environments via rivers?
Definition
Onto linear sand ridges which parallel tidal currents - shoals
Term
Why do mixed energy coasts have more todal inlets and better developed ebb-tidal deltas than wave-dominated coasts?
Definition
They have a greater mean wave height than wave dominated and higher mean tidal range than tide dominated
Term
How and when do flood-tidal deltas form?
Definition
When water comes into an inlet brings more sediment - creates like a sand bar
Term
What are washovers, and whend and how do they from? What happens to washovers?
Definition
Occur during storms, surges create enough force to push over the barrier. Cannabalistic process that allows barrier to move on shore and keep up with rising sea levels. Causes vegatation/marshes.
Term
Why don't spit systems build across bays along a coast
Definition
Spit's can't go across embayments because tidal currents don't allow them too. Spit constricts bay currents
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