important to that intrinsic quality of garments and may be used to provide shape and stability, reinforce stress points, increase retention, of the original appearance during wear & care and/or conceal garment interiors

*support materials are unique to specific to their function

material spacifcation

technical information

product test results

often contributed to moisture and/or heat and may not be apparent in the production process until final pressing

*both interlining and shell fabrics should be tested

when garment parts shrink unequal amounts

*puckering and buckling occurs

*major reasons for customer dissatisfaction and returns

• inappropriate selection of material
• improper application
• equipment that does not perform correctly
• lack of quality control

materials that are fused or sewn together to specific areas on the inside of the garments or garment components

*may provide Shape, Support, Stabilization, Reinforcement, Hand, Improved Performance

1- to produce and retain the desired aesthetic appearance

2-improve garment performance

most widely used fabrication for interlining

-low cost

-verability

-ease of engineering

-does not ravel, though it is not as strong

-less strength

-nylon, polyester

-pilling (not abrasion resistant)

-more sretch

plain weaves can be produced for any type of fiber

-most expensive

-subject to raveling and shrinkage

-cut on same grain as the garment

-can alter performance of the shell

-it may be cut on bias when cut for collars and front shirt band, 

-provide good flexibility and shaping

primarily warp knit tricots, raschels and weft insertion raschels

-high stability

-little/no stretch

-resiliency

-commonly used with wool

laminated to shell fabrics or linings

-improves body, stiffness, durability and warmth

sewn directly to the garment or garment component 

*require extra handling

*require proper placement

-seam pucker

-twisting

-more flexible

1- may be sewn to a component part before construction of the component

2-interlinings may be attached or inserted in a seam as the component is assembled

3- inserting the interlining after the component is nearly completed

*the earlier it is attached, the more secure it will be

fabrications coated with some form of resin or adhesive that serves as a bonding agent to hold the interlining to the shell fabric

*woven

*knits

*fiberwebs

garment pieces be individually matched

-more body

-do not ravel

-are easy to handle in sewing

1- heat that softens the resin

2- pressure that spreads the resin and forces it onto fabric surfaces

3-time needed for application of heat and pressure

*cooling time

it requires more direct labor initially

may also reduce handling

makes fabric easier to handle

use interlining with same polymer composition as shell fabric

-lightest weight possible

-fusing temp -> lower

-pressure decreased

-dwell time increased

-application method should be tested

1-roller press

2-flat-bed press

3-continuous pressing machines

4- irons

good for small parts

prior to cutting

more consistency in heat, time and pressure

garments pieces are faced down

interlining pieces with resin are placed on top

carried through continuous press machine

*too much heat or pressure -> glazing or shine b/c it melt the resin turning it to liquid

-application of small pieces

problem- inconsistency of pressure, dwell time, temp

1-boardiness

2-bubbling

3-color change

4-delamination

5-shrinkage

6-strike back

7-strike through

full linings

partial linings

component linings

no linings

-absorb stress

-prevent stretching

-reduce abrasion

-separate body from garment

-thermal comfort (warmth and insulation)

-protects body from harsh and abrasive seams & support material

-improve garment fit

provide slip ease

-wind resistance

completely enclosed interiors, a finished appearance and protection for the garment shell

-long enough to be functional but not long enough to extend hem

enclose only a portion of garment interiors but provide some degree of protection and comfort

-protect garment components or shell fabric in areas of high stress

-slip ease

-reduce cost

-part of garment components

-enclose interiors of components

less structure, more casual, do not depend on aesthetics of the linings for hanger appeal

*lined garment and considered higher quality

provide support and shape for the desired should silhouette

-add hanger appeal

-protect from hanger stress

-think

-thin

-rounded

-oblong

-crescent-shaped

-domed

*designers must make sure pad fits garment design

-quality is higher

-life expectancy is longer

-shoulder pads for men are vital

-mens are larger

-garment manufacturers do not produce their own shoulder pads

foams

needle-punched fiberwebs

fiber bias

wadding

generally the least expensive material, yet least desirable performance

-discolor (aging)

-distort (high dryer conditions)

-generally in blouses & dresses

large sheets or bats of lofted fiber

-may be used alone or as a filler

multiple layers arranged in a stepped manner to provide a sloped look and smooth blending of layers

-time consuming

shaped to a performed mold

-molds are 'baked'

-good resiliency

fiber web pads are sprayed with resin and fused together

-little waste

very little time to produce

-polyurethone foam