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| In fluid dynamics, a breaking wave is a wave whose amplitude reaches a critical level at which causes large amounts of wave energy to be transformed into turbulent kinetic energy |
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| The outer limit of the surf |
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| A wave on the point of breaking |
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| Top of the foaming water that speeds toward the beach after the wave has broken, white water |
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| The distance over water in which seas are generated by an unobstructed wind of a constant direction and speed |
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| The time interval between successive wave crests passing a fixed point |
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| The time, in seconds, it takes for two successive crests to pass a fixed point |
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| Waves refracted or reflected can interact with other waves. This action may increase or decrease wave height, often resulting in unnaturally high waves. |
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| Swells are waves that have moved out of the area in which they were created. |
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| Local waves generated from the action of the wind on the water’s surface |
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| A group of waves that seem to travel together, at the same speed |
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| Several breakers in a continuous line |
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| The area near shore in which breaking occurs continuously in various intensities |
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| The distance from one wave crest to the next in the same wave group or series |
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| The height from the bottom of a wave’s trough to the top of its crest; measured in the vertical, not diagonal. |
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| Refraction means bending. Wave refraction occurs when the wave moves into shoaling water, interacts with the bottom and slows |
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