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Definition
| a configuration of the interlacing of sewing thread in a specific repeated order. |
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| a line where two or more fabrics are joined. Some seams enclose the fabric edge. |
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| consists of a series of stitches embodied in a material for ornamental purposes or finishing an edge or both. |
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| Relate to aesthetics and performance and include: Size Tension Consistency |
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| Affect appearance, performance and cost |
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| Factor in quality and performance |
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| 1 revolution of the machine mechanism. |
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Definition
Long—6-8
Normal 10-12
Short—18-22 |
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| A stitch length of 10 to 12 stitches per inch (SPI) |
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| 14-20 SPI when finer threads are used |
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| stretch knits with lycra or spandex |
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| Horizontal span in stitch formation |
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| Formed by multiple needles or lateral movement of needle bar |
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| Measured from outer most row of needle holes to inner row of holes |
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| Factor in the holding power of a seam |
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Definition
| also referred to as gauge for a 2 needle machine Machines can be ordered with different gauges |
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Definition
| Distance between upper and lower surface of stitch penetration. |
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Definition
| A factor for blind stitches. The curved needle with lateral movement forms blind stitches. |
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| Balance of force on threads that form the stitch |
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| Degree of compression created by thread |
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Performance problems if
Too much
Too little |
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Definition
| The uniformity of the stitches in a row of stitches. |
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Definition
| Each stitch should be the same as the previous stitch regardless of curves, corners or varying thickness of fabric. |
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Definition
| form a stitch that looks the same on the top and bottom |
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Definition
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Definition
| Can sew forward and in reverse. |
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Definition
| Two threads are needed to form stitch a spool thread and a bobbin thread |
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Definition
| These are the most difficult stitches to rip out. |
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Definition
| The stitch is flat and has a good hand. |
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Definition
| Can be single, double, triple needle. |
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Definition
| Each needle has its own bobbin |
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Definition
| forms a stitch by interloping threads |
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Definition
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Definition
| Has an upper and lower looper |
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Definition
| Machines use from 1 to 8 threads to form stitches |
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Term
| The American Standards and Testing Methods (ASTM) |
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Definition
| developed an internationally recognized system of classification for stitches and seams used in apparel products. |
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Term
| The American Standards and Testing Methods (ASTM) |
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Definition
| Commercial stitches are divided into six classes based on complexity, configuration and type of machine required. |
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Term
| The American Standards and Testing Methods (ASTM) |
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Definition
| A three digit number identifies each stitch class |
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Term
| The American Standards and Testing Methods (ASTM) |
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Definition
| The first number identifies the class and the other digits identify a specific stitch type within the class. |
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Definition
| Uses single thread chain stitches. |
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Definition
| These are inexpensive to produce but, unravel easily. |
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Definition
| They are most appropriate for hems and attaching buttons. |
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Definition
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Definition
| Look like a lock stitch on the top and a loop is formed on the underside |
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Definition
| A spreader holds the thread loop until the needle descends again to catch it. |
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Definition
| Unravel easily by pulling end last sewn |
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Definition
| Lacks strength of a multiple thread chain stitch |
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Definition
| Does not have a lower thread. |
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Definition
| If the fabric does not move the stitches form in the same place ie spot tacks. |
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Definition
| Used to attach buttons and make buttonholes on budget garments (the buttons and fabric are moved, the needle does not move left to right) |
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Definition
| Spot tacks Used to sew feed/seed bags. |
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Definition
| It is not used to seam garments |
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Definition
| The stitch is sewn with a curved needle. |
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Definition
| It has depth which needs to be adjusted to varied fabrics. |
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Definition
| The stitches should not show on the right side of the fabric. |
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Definition
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Definition
| Used for hemming coats, skirts, dress and pants. |
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Definition
| Used to attach interfacing to the lapels of suits and sport coats. |
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Term
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Definition
| Includes hand stitches and a few machine stitches which imitate hand stitches |
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Term
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Definition
| These stitches are extremely expensive if done by hand and the machine version requires specialized equipment so these have limited use. |
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Definition
| The most widely used stitch class in the apparel industry |
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Term
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Definition
| These stitches are produced with a lockstitch machine and produce a reversible row of stitching which hugs the surface of the fabric. |
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Term
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Definition
| There is no stretch in the stitch |
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Definition
| Bobbins require frequent changing which slows production. |
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Definition
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Definition
| Forms in a straight line. Hugs the surface of the fabric with no stretch. Used for top stitching, collars, and cuffs. Basic seams that need to be pressed open. Sewing in zippers and attaching pockets. Not used on knit fabrics as there is no stretch. |
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Definition
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Definition
| It has width as the needle bar moves left and right. Looks the same on top and bottom and has stretch. |
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Definition
| Used to attach belt loops, labels, bar tacks on zippers, pockets, plackets, buttonholes on better garments, lace and appliqués, and attaching edge of elastic to fabric. |
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Definition
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Definition
| Longer and wider stitch provides more stretch. Used to attach elastic to bras and underwear. Has stretch because of the configuration of stitches. Wider holding power and more stretch than 304 stitches. |
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Definition
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Definition
| Wider stitch configuration than 304 and 308. Good stretch because of configuration. |
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Definition
| Widely used on better lingerie and sleepwear. Flat and smooth next to skin. Attach elastic to swimwear and lingerie. |
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Definition
| Produced with a chainstitch machine. |
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Term
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Definition
| The labor costs are less but, more thread is needed. |
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Definition
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Definition
| Two thread chain stitch Looks like a lockstitch on top and a loop forms on the bottom |
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Definition
| Seaming; especially in places that need to stretch. Attaching elastic; especially when needing multiple rows. Seams can be pressed open .Often used when multiple rows of stitching are needed. |
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Term
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Definition
| Two lines of top stitching that look like lockstitches. |
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Term
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Definition
| Tight tension on the looper thread draws the needle threads together and it forms a ridge between the two needle threads. |
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Definition
| creates a raised fold between two rows of stitching |
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Definition
| Stitching center crease in knit pants, decorative stitch on back of gloves, decorative stitching on hems. |
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Term
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Definition
| Zig zag stitch formation with loop formed on back. Similar to a 304 but it is not the same on both sides. |
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Term
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Definition
| Uses include attaching labels, attaching curtain to the waistbands of men’s dress slacks, bar tacks on pockets and plackets. It has similar uses as a 304 stitch but it can formed faster. |
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Term
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Definition
| Formed with two needles and one looper thread. Lower thread connects two needle threads on the underside. |
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Term
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Definition
| Appears as two lines of lockstitches on the top. Connecting lower thread covers the seam allowances or hem. |
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Term
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Definition
Widely used to hem better knit shirts to keep flat. Covers seams so seam allowances don’t shift
Stitch belt loops. |
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Term
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Definition
| Includes stitches which are overedge and interloped |
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Term
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Definition
| Basic construction and finishing stitches produced by a serger fall into this class. |
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Term
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Definition
| Safety stitches also fall into this class |
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Term
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Definition
| contain two parallel rows of stitches that produce a very secure seam. They are formed by a row of overedge stitches and a row of either multithread chain stitches or lockstitches. These stitches are strong, durable inexpensive to produce and allow for relatively fast construction of garments. |
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Definition
| This class stitches a seam, trims and finishes the edge simultaneously |
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Definition
| They are used most often on knitwear and leg seams on jeans. |
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Definition
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Definition
Hems on budget t-shirts
Serging or seam finishes |
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Term
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Definition
| Sometimes known as a box stitch takes on shape of a 4 or box. Much tighter needle thread. Used for seaming and edge finishing. Widely used for seaming knitwear creates a narrow seam—ok for knits but not wovens. |
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Term
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Definition
| very tight tension and stitch length can to used to create a satin edge hem. |
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Term
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Definition
| Combine an overedge stitch with a 401 stitch. Seams and finishes at the same time. |
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Term
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Definition
| Called this because there is a backup stitch if the 401 comes unraveled. High speed formation. Include 515, 516, 519. |
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Definition
| Durable seam used on budget garments |
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Term
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Definition
| Reduces sewing time with only one pass through the machine |
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Definition
| Seams cannot be pressed open or let out |
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Definition
| Used on fabrics that will not retain a press |
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Definition
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Definition
| Similar to Safety Stitches but only one line of stitching. |
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Term
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Definition
| Four thread formed with 2 needles and all threads connect. |
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Term
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Definition
| Used to seam knits and wovens. Seams but narrower seam allowances than Safety Stitches. |
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Term
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Definition
| 512 appears to have one less thread on the under side. 514 stronger; appears same on both sides |
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Term
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Definition
| Includes coverstitches. The stitch shows on both the front and back of the garment. |
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Term
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Definition
| They are used to join abutted or overlapped edges. |
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Definition
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Definition
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Definition
| Seams are formed by stacking plies of fabric on top of one another and stitching them together near the edge |
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Definition
| There are 54 variations of seams within this class. |
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Definition
| Basic seam structure for joining two pieces of fabric. Edges align. Basic seams of a garment . Seam could be pressed open (booked or busted) or seam allowances finished together with a 515 or 516 stitch. |
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Term
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Definition
| Also known as a French Seam. This seam is done in two steps and encloses the raw edge of the seam allowance. Used on sheer and higher end garments. |
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Definition
| Edges align but one ply has a fold. Used to attach belt loops to a waistband, elastic to waistline, and some types of belts. |
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Term
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Definition
| Edges align but both seam allowances fold to the inside before stitching . Joins two pieces of folded fabric together with a line of topstitching along the folded edges. Used for neckbands of shirt collars, front ends of jean waistbands |
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Term
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Definition
| Seam done in two steps. It is sewn with an SSa, turned and topstitched. Used on the edges of collars and cuffs. It flattens the seam and makes it stronger. Stitching may be close to the seam or set in from the seamed edge. |
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Term
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Definition
| Two step seam that begins with an SSa and is stitched a second time with a 406 stitch. The cover stitch keeps the seam flat and prevents seam allowances from shifting. Makes a strong seam which appears to have two lines of stitching on either side of the original seam. Found on better apparel as it is an extra step in the sewing process. |
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Term
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Definition
| Formed by overlapping the seam allowances of two or more plies of fabric and sewing them together. |
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Term
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Definition
| This is the largest seam class with 102 variations of seams. |
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Definition
| Pieces overlap at the needle but extend out in both directions from the needle. Seam allowances are not enclosed. Used on vinyl and leather because they do not ravel. Attaching lace or other trim to fabric edge. Makes a very flat seam. |
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Term
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Definition
| Top ply is folded when attached to under ply. No raw edges are visible. Used to seam leather, some types of welt zipper plackets. |
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Term
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Definition
| Both pieces of fabric are folded in opposite directions. Seam has an S configuration. No raw edges showing; no raveling . Used on side seams of dress shirts and work wear. Often used for one seam on jeans, may be called a felled or flat felled seam. Extremely durable, stitched with two or three lines of stitching. |
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Term
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Definition
| Folded edge topstitched to flat piece of fabric. Used for topstitching along the folded edge, attaching patch pockets, attaching overlay yokes, attaching end folded labels. |
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Term
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Definition
| Two step seam that secures the direction of the seam allowances. Begins as a SS seam. Seam allowances are then top stitched to one side. Stitching maintains the position of the seam allowances. A very strong seam that increases durability. Used for inseams of jeans. |
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Term
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Definition
| Are made by encasing the raw edges of the seam with fabric strips. |
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Term
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Definition
| They are listed as seams but, are not used to form structural seams on a garment. |
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Term
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Definition
| This seam class is used to finish raw edges of seams such as at necklines, armholes, hems, and seam allowances. |
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Term
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Definition
| Bias tape is a commonly used binding in this class. |
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Term
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Definition
| Single piece of binding makes a simple fold over the edge of the fabric. Binding makes a simple fold over the edge. Usually a single line of stitching Edges of binding could ravel depending on the fabric Flattest possible binding. Finish for necklines, pocket trim. |
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Term
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Definition
| Binding is folded once on the right side. Finished look and no raveling on the right side Often used for necklines on t-shirts; stitched with a 406 to finish the inside and to keep flat. |
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Term
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Definition
| Both edges of the binding are folded to the inside. Binding looks the same on both sides. Gives a finished look but adds bulk to the seam. Widely used to finish necklines, armholes, and edges of all kinds. Many waistbands are applied this way. |
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Term
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Definition
| Two step operation with hidden stitching and line of top stitching. Widely used method to apply waistbands but could be used to apply bindings elsewhere also First step is to apply binding with an SSa followed by top stitching. The two lines of top stitching could be done with a 401 double needle. |
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Term
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Definition
| Made by butting the raw edges together and securing then with a 600 class coverstitch or zigzag stitch. |
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Term
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Definition
| Three are 6 variations of this seam type. |
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Term
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Definition
| These are economical to make because they have no seam allowance but, require a significant amount of thread. |
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Term
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Definition
| This seam type is most commonly used in knit garments such as underwear and raglan-sleeve sweatshirts. |
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Term
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Definition
| Pieces butted together. Stitched with a 600 stitch class |
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Term
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Definition
| One piece of fabric is folded under |
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Term
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Definition
| Both pieces are folded under but they do not overlap. |
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Term
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Definition
| prevent raveling on woven fabrics and keep the edges of knit fabrics from curling. There are 3 subcategories |
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Definition
| the most common form of edge finishes. |
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Term
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Definition
| is the most common hem type used on knits. |
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Term
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Definition
| is formed by turning edge of fabric twice to encase the raw edge. The hem is then topstitched close to the edge. |
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Term
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Definition
| is formed by a blind hem stitch machine with stitches being barely visible on the right side of the garment. |
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Term
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Definition
| are formed on the finished edge of the garment and are usually visible only on the inside of the garment. |
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Term
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Definition
| Requires one fold of fabric along an edge. Single fold on edge may be a hem or a seam finish. Sometimes called a “clean finish” for an edge. Less bulky than some edge finishes. May ravel unless edge is finished. Stitching is usually close to the cut edge. |
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Term
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Definition
| Requires a double fold along an edge. Does not ravel, but may be bulkier. Used for hems and finishing edges. |
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Term
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Definition
| Stitching is between the hem edge and garment Blind hem Sewn with a break open stitch 503 Fabric trimmed during stitching so stitching appears to be on the edge When done correctly the stitching does not show on the outside Used primarily to hem budget t-shirts. |
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Term
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Definition
| Stitches form over the edge of fabric. Stitching visible on edge. Hem garments and finish seam allowances. Most done with a 503, 504 stitch. |
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Term
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Definition
| Usually a narrow strip of fabric with edge folded toward center. Most often sewn with a 406 stitch. Used to make belt loops on jeans. |
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Term
| Ornamental Stitching (OS) |
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Definition
| Stitching on one ply of flat fabric |
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Term
| Ornamental Stitching (OS) |
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Definition
| Stitching within the piece of fabric not on the edge. |
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Definition
| Stitching within a single piece of fabric. Decorative stitching or embroidery on a shirt, jacket, or jeans pocket. Applied to a single ply of fabric. |
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Definition
| Decorative stitching with a cord insert. Stitched with a double needle often a 402. Has cording placed on the wrong side between the needles. Used to create a decorative design stitching on the back to dress gloves. |
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Term
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Definition
| no cord and less obvious. Similar uses: decorative stitching on gloves, pockets, yoke trim; crease line on slacks. |
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Definition
| Fold stitched in fabric. Describes stitching darts OSf is not ornamental, but it best fits this category because it is one ply of fabric and the stitching is in the center of the fabric and not on the edge. |
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